can you get fish eye from your diesel cigar heater even if it is not running.I was told that was the problem now with fisheye on my hood and decklid for the 3rd time Thanks for help.Hate this BC/CC
When I was painting cars, we would not even let a diesel run when painting. No ArmorAll was allowed in the shop either.
Not a painter but I have heard that from my dad. If you are on your third round you may want to consider a different environment to spray in. The particles will settle on the walls,ceilings,floor. You can make a makeshift paint booth on the cheap with p v c and plastic. Good luck as paint is not cheap.
A friend of mine continually had the fish eye problem at his shop. There was a detail shop about a 1/4 mile away. The wind would carry the silicone to his shop.
Are you getting fish eye in the base? or just the clear? Its odd to get fish eye in the base unless its over reduced. Moisture in the air line can cause it to fish eye as well and small compressors tend to heat up the air in the tank which cools as it goes thru the air line creating moisture problems and fish eyes. Ive been painting cars for over 25 years and most of the problmes I have run into are with the air supply from the compressoer and not contaminates on the car itself.
Fish Eye eliminater is your friend. When acrylic enamel was the paint of choice it was added in every paint job. Not so much in the BC/CC or urethane paints today. But it is always in the shop.
Can you get fish eyes from a diesel cigar heater even if its not running? If its was ever running you'll have fisheye trouble. Certainly if you can smell it in the air - being fuel, Trans fluid, grease, detail products, its on the surface too. No brainer there. Fisheye eliminator was invented for this stuff. It's like 1 ounce per sprayable quart. Or something close to that.
It's not the paint, I've used Nason for years, with great results, and I'm just paint in my workshop with no paint booth. Good luck! Its a pain in the ass to get rid off!
Yea, fish eye eliminator is not your friend and should be used only at last resort. As previously stated it is not the paint, you have a contamination problem. The diesel heater is certainly a red flag, if you use it much everything will get coated. And also as stated, any product containing silicone must be banished from any painting area, it is amazing how little will kill a paint job. What kind of surface and area prep are you doing?
I would like to know your compressor set up . Are you using a dryer and or separator ? Does your compressor use much oil and how old is the air hose ? Contamination is everywhere ! All you can do is reduce the amount .
Of all the replies I think the air line one makes the most sense. Compressor? Water traps? Shop temp? There's some crude fixes that almost always work, but I'd suggest the plastic walls idea as a start. Create a singular environment for the car. Next, there's 2 types of contaminants that will plague the latest crop of finishes. There's solvent based like oils, waxes, fuel, etc. Then there's water based enemies in the air and on you or your tools/clothing etc. To clean the car I start with good ol wax n grease remover and CLEAN RAGS. There's some disposable paper towels that are pretty awesome with no fiber remnants. If you're using just "clean rags", this is where the beloved fix all, dryer sheets, will sodomize your efforts as will fabric softener. For water based contamination you can use a diluted mixture of old school ammonia based window cleaner. Don't use any scented/floral/enviro friendly bullshit, just plain windex at like 20% to some warm water and spritz it lightly, dry with 2 rags. I used reclaimed baby blanket material from ACE, a local industrial supplier, but I generally launder them at home 1st, no fabric softener, a 1/2 cup of bleach, and if I remember a double rinse. Dry em with no drier sheets and you have nice clean white rags for anything from cleaning to concours-level detailing. Old terry cloth towels work too but follow the same pre-wash guidelines. Too rule out a contaminated hose you can dribble a couple ounces of wax n grease remover into the end, give a minor shot of air and then roll it up with your focus on moving it to the end, then blow a shit ton of air through it. You might even cycle the compressor twice to get the last of the mist out but you'll have a clean hose (shit, that sounded a little personal). I hope I may have clicked an idea or something you might be overlooking. The last line of defense? Fast dry solvent and light coats. Yes, more peel, a bit more sanding, but no "holes". Good luck...
My pre prep before paint is as follows, first I wiped down with prepsol, then a quick wet sand with dawn dish washing detergent in water, then prepsol again, blow dry, paint. If the car has been sitting in primer for a length of time I would shoot another coat of primer sealer over it first then repeat the process. AS SPRAYED....
I was wondering this too....i've used Nason in the past in a dirty garage, never had a problem. Compressor and filter up to the task? Are you reducing and activating with Nason products also?
With BB/CC how are you aplying the clear? Are you trying to bury it in one coat? Try doing about 3-4 dust coats with 5-10 minute flash time to seal it first and then try to flow it.
I own a body shop that specializes in heavy duty trucks. We never have had a fish eye problem associated with diesel fumes. Not even when the shop was filled up with white smoke from a miss firing engine.
Thank you for asking that question We have those in CA but mine is propane. Guessing not an issue with propane?
Yup, we used them to heat the insides of new construction so the drywallers could do their thing. We called them "heaters". Guess we're not as witty here in SoCal. And, yeah, we don't need 'em very often. Supposed to be 75 today
That thing is basically an oil burner on wheels, I would suspect that is the problem. Did you have issues before the heater? I lent a guy 50" of air hose once and after I got it back I had SERIOUS fish eye, drove me crazy. I finally asked him where he used my hose and he plugged it into an in-line lubricator. Threw it in the trash!
Painting since 1970 and used Prepsol and similar products for many years, with occasional fisheye problems. I started using a product called Ting, 20 odd yrs ago on the left coast, couldn't find it here in the south, so I started using a product called Surface Prep, a Malco product. The very first step before sanding,or body work, is scrub the ENTIRE vehicle repeatedly with Surface Prep/water and Scotchbrite pad, rinsing the surface clean as you go, not allowing the product to dry on the surface. This gets the surface really clean and a quart will probably clean 6 or 8 cars. I guarantee you will have the cleanest job ever and nope I don't sell Malco.