Projects New to me 54 Chevy..... Build thread to follow

The engine is newer than 1954, it has the four bolt valve cover. From the center breather, I would guess it to be a 1959 or newer, could even be a 261.

 

4 bolt valve cover started in 53 with the 235. You could get a insert rod bearing in the power glide model with 60 psi oil gauge, or babbit bearings in the 3 speed with 30 psi gauge. the breather could be as early as 55. but i had a 57 with same breather.

 

I didn't know until you mentioned it. The head is Code 3836848. Back by the starter the block has raised letters CON3 480. Then Stamped behind the Distributor is what appears to be F0IIIJ. Going to get the number off between the Distributor and road draft hole tonight. My question is if this is a later block, how is the torque tube setup in it? I was under the impression that the later straight 6's were a different bell housing pattern and it would match up.. Maybe someone just swapped heads. Thanks guys for the heads up.

 

Nice build so far. The 216, 235 & 261 all share the same bell housing bolt pattern regardless of the engine year.

 

But didnt the later years with the open driveline differ from a torque tube setup?

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The type of motor you have were made till 1962 then the back of the motor was changed ; Your motor has to be a 62 or earlier but they started the open drive shaft in 1955 . Your Chevy looks really good .

 

53' valve covers still had center bolts, 54' was the first to have the four bolts on the edges, but the cap was still up front (I have originals of both). Not sure when the center fill cap started but my brothers 59' Apache had one.

 

One other note: the original owner may not have removed the oil filter. Back then those things were actually an accessory. They were very popular but some motors didn't have them.
Very nice car, btw.

 

He removed the oil filter because it was in the trunk of parts. He also has welded a pipe into the draft tube with a nipple with a rubber hose going over to a tapped fitting on the manifold. I assume to keep oil from gettig all over the engine bay. I plan to reinstall the filter soon. Thanks guys for all the kind helpful comments.

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Love the color. Now I know what mine will look like once I paint it, I was wondering about that color. Car looks good. Keep at it.

 

Your car looks great. I can't wait to get my 54' as low as yours in the front.......

M-

 

The color chip on tcp globals site looked a little closer to a Carolina Blue. The final sprayed color was a way different then i expected, but I love it. It stands out for sure.

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The car has settled and rides great now. The last owner did a crap job on the exhaust and it is the lowest point under the car. That will be fixed later. Also rebuilt the master cylinder over the weekend. Brakes feel awesome now. Here's a couple pics from today.

 

Nope, the difference between the open drive and closed drive set up is how the rear end is connected to the transmission, i.e drive shaft or torque tube. I know this for a fact as I've put three different motors in my car all coming out of open drive cars. I've reused my bell housing flywheel, clutch, pressure plate, transmission and torque tube every time.

 

So I spent most of the summer working on my 54. I added skirts, painted the entire lower half of car again, painted wheels, added spider caps, rewired car, and did most of the interior. The car was bare metal inside when I got it. This car has been a learning curve for me. It was my first paint job, my first attempt at seats, and I am still learning as I go on the mechanics of it all. Enjoy the pics.

 

Looks good. What did you do to lower the rear that much?

M-

 

I just used 3" lowering blocks and installed air shocks.

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Wow, i did the same thing but mine just doesn't seem as low. Maybe my springs have a touch more arch......



M-

 

My springs are well worn I assume when compared to your picture. Your right, big difference.

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Keep this thought in mind.
Being that this is a torque tube application, it is possible that the tranny oil and rear end oil can interchange fluids and levels, not by design, but by a faulty bushing/seal.
I mention this because a 3" drop actually is raising the rear end towards the floor, making it possible for rear end lube to run "downhill" through the torque tube, past the defective seal/bushing, then to the tranny. Is the 3" drop enough to start this process? Don't know either way.
However, check tranny oil level and rear end oil level to be certain each level is correct ..... meaning the "unwanted swap of fluids" is not occurring.
It can happen, with or without the lowering blocks, if the bushing/seal in the torque tube is defective.