GASSER MUST HAVES and cant haves?

Ric,
From what I've seen,improper storage is the most harmful thing for any type of wheel.
If its too damp,or they're stored directly on a concrete floor,corrosion goes crazy.Im not totally certain about Magnesium,but I scouted a pretty nice set of aluminum ET's ,but wasn't able to get them until a couple of years later.
The chalky,crumbling corrosion had eaten the interior of the spokes til you could break pieces off with your fingers.But you lucky dogs out in California don't have all those troubles like us poor chumps up north,do you!
I would love to have enough power to break wheels though!

Scott


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I had mine tested, it wasnt very expensive and gives you peace of mind.

 

Yep, tore the center out of a couple of sets right after the quality of the race slicks improved and you could actually get traction. That and motors making 600+hp.......All fun and games as long as the tires spin, you'll tear stuff up when a car starts to dead hook !

 

Amen! Everything starts to get strained once your car starts to hook up well! We all strive for that point where we can get all the power to the ground, but it does take it's toll, and even more so with a stick shift car!

 

On the subject of stick shift cars (and specifically clutches),what's everyone using in their big hp cars?
I've got a Ram 9000 series sintered metal disc in a light,2700 lb sbf powered car,and I'm sure it would really tear up parts in a heavier car with more hp.
I'm hearing a lot of guys talking about McLeod Soft-Lok clutches.Is anybody running one?
My A is going to have some pretty serious hp & tq,so I am looking at something to help preserve drivetrain parts a bit.....

Scott


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The Soft Lock set up is user friendly, and fairly rugged..,good piece.

 

I'm getting ready to do a new clutch for the Anglia. I've been talking to McLeod about either the Soft Lok or the Pro Series 1. The new motor makes more power than I will be comfortable with on today's tires. With very little tire spin, a 90" wheelbase and very light weight, I really don't want the car launching that hard. Too easy for too many things to go way wrong. Plus with an M-22 trans it would tear up transmissions pretty fast.

 

What's your definition of big HP? Not sure at a bit over 500hp that mine qualifies, but I'm actually running a clutch/pressure plate that is a stock replacement for the old LS-7 454 Chevelle. It's a LUK-Schaeffler unit, and for my street/strip setup, it's working great. A bit stiff at stop lights with mechanical linkage, but I drop it into neutral if I'm sitting still for very long.

 

Most everybody in our group runs a Ram setup,our average et's are around 5.90s 1/8 mile as far as I know nobody has had any problems. I always used Ram products in my pro mod until the sissy automatics took over.

 

Hi Guys

What is a Soft - Lok clutch

Thanks, Don

 

Don - they are also known as a "Slipper" Clutch. They soften the launch and then come in harder as speed/RPM pick up. The mechanical version of "Ridin the Clutch"

here is McLeod's description:
The McLeod Soft-Lok assembly is the most widely used McLeod clutch assembly for drag racers, and is not recommended for street use. This unit is an NHRA & IHRA record holder and meets the demands of the most powerful engines while offering superb holding power and complete adjustability. The secret behind the Soft-Lok is low static pressure, resulting in light pedal effort with soft clutch engagement. This allows the vehicle with up to 1200 HP to leave the starting line harder without excessive tire spin yet still maintain enough holding power for the rest of the run. Adjustable spring pressure allows you to"dial in" the clutch for your vehicle and engine along with the ability to add counter weights to increase the holding power at higher RPM's.

 

I kinda thought that is what is was, Thanks

 

I thought they called that a torque converter?

 

Naw,torque converters are for the Prius that the lady next door drives.... lol

Scott


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Same principle as a CrowerGlide?

 

Somewhat,but more like a conventional clutch,just with an intentional gentle lockup to ease the hit,and allow the tires to hook.

Scott


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I'm guessing that my combo will be making around 700-750hp from a supercharged 420+ ci early Hemi backed up by either a B&M HydroStick (which I searched high and low for before I found a good one),or,if I decide that I just can't stand to not have a full-on manual transmission,I also have a Liberty pro-shifted Toploader 4-spd.
Going to try keeping the weight under 2800lbs,but would prefer to be closer to 2400-2500lbs.The lighter the better,as it's also easier on parts.

Quain:I absolutely love the Ram stuff I'm running right now,and it has been 100% bulletproof through some really sick abuse,I was just wondering if the other stuff would help a hack like me drive a relatively high hp,low weight car without embarrassing myself too much,and help prevent parts from getting tore up....

Thanks guys.I really appreciate all the advice and help that is offered whenever myself or anybody else posts a question on this thread.
I think the quality of future builds has improved x10 just due to this thread alone.

Scott


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I have been running the Ram 9000 for a long time in a 3000 lb car and I like it. A buddy tried to talk me into a centerforce version of that slipper clutch but I backed out when I found out after 6 passes you need to reset the clutch which requires getting under the car and bumping the engine over to adjust the clutch in 3 places through a hole in the bell housing with an allen wrench. Im in it for the fun and this is not something I want to do at the track.

 

That's a good point Danny,and something I'm glad you mentioned,as I really want this car to be "set it and forget it"...I'm getting old,and my days of constantly working on stuff are over.
Between rounds I want some ass time in a lawn chair with a cold drink,or time to sit in the stands and enjoy the racing.
I'm sure there are a few guys on here who might feel the same way.
Thanks,

Scott


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My ram set up is adjustable I can let it slip a little leaving but I don't. Call ram they can make it any way you want it. I'm sure some other company's are good also I have just always used ram since 1975.

 

Thanks Quain.If it'll last with the beatings you you guys are throwing at 'em,they should take just about anything.
As I said earlier,the one I am running in my o/t 66 Ford is an absolute dream.Pedal pressure might be moderate,but not ridiculous by any means.
I'm more than happy to give them a shot at selling me the next one

Scott


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Yep you're right Phil.
The rears on my truck were Magnesium. I put well over 30k miles on them without a single issue.
They are now on the 32 which also has magnesiums up front and about 2k miles on that now. Again no issues with fatigue etc.
I did put tubes in front though due to porosity and leaks.

Tony

 

Man, Shannon's '55 is about as period correct looking mid 60's gasser as it gets. Gorgeous looking and built by the master Quain to boot. I'll give the Tunnel Ram a pass, as it it isn't much taller than many old high rise manifolds of the day. I bet it ain't no slouch on the strip either.

--- Steve ---

 

Sorry guys, I gotta throw the BS flag.
I know you all know cars from back in the day, but that Budweiser can is fresh! That is my expertise. Too new to be period correct.

 

Don't know if it's been mentioned yet but this is a really good book on the subject. Not easy to find and a little on the pricy side though.

 

I bought that for my Dad a few years ago and I really learned a lot from it...A few guys really bashed on it earlier in this thread,but I really like how it highlights the sportsman type "weekend warrior" cars that the average guy could afford to build with a 265 or a 283,and not just the blown Hemi professional level AA/GS cars.

Scott


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Considering what else is out there for gasser reference, it's probably the best book you'll find. Not like there tons of books out on the subject to choose from! I've had my copy so long it was under $30 and readily available back then!

 

My book has made it cross country once and is filled with alot of signitures. A bunch of gassers that has sadly passed. It will go to my grand son along with the willys. Definitely a good book

 

Is it going to pass current tech with all that what appears to be rubber hose in the fuel system connections?

Once again the topic rears its head.......it's "period correct" but is it legal under current rules?

 

No, all that rubber hose wont pass NHRA tech, but maybe he's running it at outlaw tracks? Lots of small tracks don't sweat the rubber hose limit that NHRA has.