Wiring diagram, will this work?

Will this work? Trying to post diagram.

 

Yup, it'll work. What are you trying to power through the "On" circuit that you need to do that to begin with? I'm assuming that's what you're doing or you have some high assed amp draw on your starter solenoid.


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Katuna, if you mean the 50 amp circuit breaker, I was wondering about that to, read somewhere that it was suppose to be a good idea. Nothing out of the ordinary for amp draw on the car, maybe I should eliminate it? Could it hurt anything, I have very limited knowledge of wiring. Thanks for the help.

 

A few comments....

If you're 'electrically challenged', you might want to look here....
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=843579

And that #10 wire is pretty light for a 50 amp load if that's what you have. Maybe the relay too..

The circuit drawing is good, and will prevent an overload on the ignition switch contacts.

 

I found this site a few years ago. I know it is geared toward car audio but it still has a lot of useful information about automotive electronic stuff.
http://www.bcae1.com/
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Didn't notice the #10 wire. Yeah that is on the light side for 50A. Otherwise it's a good idea to keep any amp draw off the switch.


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I've got the "HOW TO WIRE YOUR STREET ROD" and it's about all I can handle but has got me started in the right direction. Thanks everyone for your help.

 

Best thing to do - DON'T PANIC! That's the gut reaction of anyone unfamiliar with wiring. Take it slow, lay out all your components and just familiarize yourself with all the parts. If you can blow up the schematic so it's easier to follow that helps. Make lots of notes and don't be afraid to ask even the "stupidest" of question.


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I think it would work but a relay is usually powered direct from the battery seems like switch would still have full load and that would defeat the purpose of the second relay. I could be wrong so ... Thanks Kirk

 

I'm jumping in here with some assumptions(yep we all know what that means)

It looks to me that the 50amp fuse is in place of the fusible link that powers the system....I've seen that mentioned here too.

The relay IS basically hooked straight to the battery directly off that stud and just activated when the key is turned on.

 

The relay coil draws just fractional amps. The 50A line is switched through the Normally Open relay contacts, which are designed to handle the high amps. That's the whole purpose of a relay. Otherwise all switches would have to be big and bulky to handle the amps. By using a relay you remove the amp draw ( which equals heat ) from the switch.


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Yep,

First I only see one relay, which are you referring to as "second relay"
With the relay, the ignition switch only has full load of holding the relay coil, minimal. The relay contacts are caring the full load of the system.

 

Wouldn't you power high draw acc. with separate relays and not try to just do it with one relay, seems like you would need a big relay like a starter relay or something. Also power relay direct from battery.

 

Sure, you could do that, but all we have to look at is what's there in that diagram. I don't see or know or can say on what's not there.
Lets say a 1962 Chevy carried the full load thru the keyed ignition switch. They are pretty tough but lots of little scary parts get abused inside that switch and its being asked to do a lot.

 

But if the purpose of relay is to protect the switch. The way the diagram shows, IF the feed to the relay from the switch gets hot (heat would transfer to stud on switch) it will melt the switch same as not having relay. Hence why you would feed relay from battery.

 

Are you speaking of the lower stud on the ignition switch?
That's not feeding thru the internal contacts of the switch. It's only a junction.

 

You can still get some heat transfer through the stud, although just how much will be a guess. Yes, the contacts won't have the load and are 'protected' but any heat added to the switch will reduce it's current rating some...

 

Some do things a little different, especially when adding accessories such as electric fan, big stereo, etc.

Most older cars used the ignition switch for ignition, wipers, turn signals, heater fan, windows. So the fuse panel had ignition wire from switch, then fused the various items. If this was the case, the easiest way of wiring the higher current rated items was to put a simple clip on one of the ignition powered fuses and run to the coil of a relay. The rest is wired per your diagram.

If you are switching higher current items through the relay then I would advise you to find a non polarized capacitor and hang it between the battery and load side of the relay switching terminals. It will suppress the arcing going on inside the relay and prolong the life of it.

 

Crazy Steve wow I will be reading the info you posted looks very informative. I might be over think what he is doing.

 

new guy here with a suggestion to eliminate heat transfer from the 10g wire to the switch.

 

Wrong.

I don't have time

 

Wrong.....humph......i guess everything i learned about electron flow is out of date. do you have the new manual?

 

He's calling you out on the 'ground' connected to the switch....

 

Ok smarty pants FNG,,,
Take that ignition switch and rewrite the starter for starters ( pun intended)

 

Unless there is resistance there will be no heat. If every thing is sized right it should not heat ,the terminal on the switch is just a junction point.

 

And maybe I should add-
2nd post no intro FNG
& no you can't have my electron manual

 

Nuh uh. That won't work on a couple different level not the least of which is the ground on the Batt post of the switch.

Landing the wire on the Batt post in the first schematic is the easiest method. The only issue you would have "heat" related is if you had a loose connection at the post itself. That would be the same problem you would have at any point in any electrical circuit, AC or DC.


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Steve, if that is the case, i don't understand why the position of ground to the switch is a problem because the 2 components (the coil and the switch) are not polarity dependent. also, I do not see a starter in the diagram that needs to be rewritten.
Vicky, you just reminded me of why i only have 2 posts and have been signed up for a while now. attitudes like yours are not very welcoming. sorry to waste your time Sir.

 

Well, besides myself you've got two other highly regarded opinions that concur with mine. I don't know if that means anything to you but it should. I said I didn't have time to explain why it was wrong. then before i could explain you pop off with some law of electrons remark that included how everything you know is wrong.

Ok so now you want to talk about attitudes, great. Check my post history first and then come back with an informed opinion and relevant information about my attitude.
Right now all I have to go on about your attitude is humph and I can only picture a child pouting with his arms folded and turning around. Maybe I'm wrong and I hope that I am- give me something to see.

 

So yes original post will work just fine, but don't think there is any benefit to doing it that way. Depending on what you need power for, seems like one relay is used for each item. Electric fan would have is own relay, blower motor own relay ect. This is how it's done on modern cars, there is alot of power needed for all the systems and each one has it's own relay, and power comes direct from battery source in most case I've seem. Cuircut breaker in main power wire looks like good idea. Lots of different ways to do it, the fun is learning.