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GASSER MUST HAVES and cant haves?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by DirtyDave, Aug 4, 2013.

  1. powrshftr
    Joined: Mar 29, 2013
    Posts: 4,543

    powrshftr
    Member

    It's the 3/4 ton unit Chris,so although I'm shooting for 700-750hp with this combo,the car will be light,and I'm told this rear should stand up pretty well.
    Can't wait to get it home and start mocking stuff up.

    Scott


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  2. 1971BB427
    Joined: Mar 6, 2010
    Posts: 8,765

    1971BB427
    Member
    from Oregon

    If you really want to maintain a 60's gasser look you wont want to run bare aluminum door panels. You can simply cover the aluminum with thin black naugahyde and get the "stock" type look without adding much weight. I've done this on both of my cars, and it looks finished, but simple. The lightweight naugahyde I purchased at the local fabric store for under $5 a running yard in 60" widths.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  3. CGkidd
    Joined: Mar 2, 2002
    Posts: 2,910

    CGkidd
    Member

    Looks good. I need to do up interior on the Studebaker that looks like it would work nicely.
     
  4. Junior Stock
    Joined: Aug 24, 2004
    Posts: 1,896

    Junior Stock

    Scanned this from the Hot Rod article on the Mustang.

    [​IMG]
     
  5. 1971BB427
    Joined: Mar 6, 2010
    Posts: 8,765

    1971BB427
    Member
    from Oregon

    I actually used 1/8" Masonite panels, as they're easier to cut and shape, and not any heavier weight than aluminum. Cheaper too, and since they're covered I didn't want to spend the bucks for aluminum.
     
  6. Danny G
    Joined: Aug 1, 2006
    Posts: 399

    Danny G
    Member

    The 41 stude I drove I drove in 1966 had aluminum panels with rolled beads
     
  7. powrshftr
    Joined: Mar 29, 2013
    Posts: 4,543

    powrshftr
    Member

    This is kind of what I was going for:
    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1383760262.235802.jpg ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1383760277.409239.jpg

    Very minimal,almost cave-man-ish...lol
    I was planning to go the route mentioned earlier,and splatter-paint anything that was not panelled,just to keep it somewhat sanitary,yet extremely basic.



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  8. powrshftr
    Joined: Mar 29, 2013
    Posts: 4,543

    powrshftr
    Member

    I bet that car of yours was a real hoot to drive!What were you running for power?

    Scott


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  9. powrshftr
    Joined: Mar 29, 2013
    Posts: 4,543

    powrshftr
    Member

    Ps:Those photos I posted earlier are out of an old model A gasser that ran out of Ohio around the 62-65 era from what I'm told...I wasn't sure if the panels were from that era,or added later.

    Scott


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  10. D.N.D.
    Joined: Aug 15, 2012
    Posts: 1,385

    D.N.D.
    Member Emeritus

    Hi Scott

    I used black cardboard panels from Pep Boys that were for replacing your factory package tray behind the rear seat under the rear window

    They came leather embossed so I cut them to fit the door, then the top shop guy sewed a little binding around the edge then hit them with some spray can clear

    Looked like street - easy to wipe off the dust - and cheap and as light as you can get

    I will post a pic later today and I used it behind the seats to finish off the inside

    For alum that is what I had for the firewall and floorboard, I used a Jitterbug sander to put I nice finish on the alum and a more finished look rather that bare shiny alum

    Use some Clecko's to hold the alum panels in place while doing your cutting & fitting, then jitterbug before installing them in place

    G Don
     
  11. powrshftr
    Joined: Mar 29, 2013
    Posts: 4,543

    powrshftr
    Member

    Thanks Don!



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  12. Lytles Garage
    Joined: May 6, 2011
    Posts: 621

    Lytles Garage
    Member

    I've had a big Frankland ,(same as Winter's) in my Model A for years, She'll take some Abuse!! Chris
     
  13. powrshftr
    Joined: Mar 29, 2013
    Posts: 4,543

    powrshftr
    Member

    That's the unit I was going to go with,but the HAMBer getting the unit together for me had a nice Winters unit on hand,so I took the ball and ran with it!:)
    Is yours a stick shift car Chris?Mines gonna run a B&M HydroStick,which I expect to be awful tough on u-joints and axles...lol!
    Let's hear a little more about your setup...if its way off topic for this particular thread,feel free to pm me the details.
    Thanks,

    Scott


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  14. D.N.D.
    Joined: Aug 15, 2012
    Posts: 1,385

    D.N.D.
    Member Emeritus

    Hi Scott

    Here is a pic of the door panel with the black cardboard with a leather pattern, neat way to go - easy to do - lite - and cheap too

    G Don
     

    Attached Files:

  15. powrshftr
    Joined: Mar 29, 2013
    Posts: 4,543

    powrshftr
    Member

    That's a great picture Don!
    The door panels look sharp,and those seat brackets are badass too!
    Thanks for always stepping up with answers whenever myself or somebody else on here is looking for help.
    Man....I can't get over how cool that picture is.You look like you're having the time of your life!

    Scott


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  16. Quain Stott
    Joined: Nov 21, 2006
    Posts: 2,058

    Quain Stott
    Member

    Great pic Don I checked out every thing not just the door panel. Looked like nice all around car, aluminum work very clean
     
  17. D.N.D.
    Joined: Aug 15, 2012
    Posts: 1,385

    D.N.D.
    Member Emeritus

    Yep Scott I was having a great day posing for the Hot Rod magazine story, don't get much better than that running a gasser in 65'

    Along with winning Trophy's at the drags and car shows

    As the 60's were the best times at the drags for all class's

    G Don
     
  18. Lytles Garage
    Joined: May 6, 2011
    Posts: 621

    Lytles Garage
    Member

    Scott; It's a 468" BBC, Isky 270 Solid lifter cam, Edelbrock Tunnel ram ,2 Holley 450s, McCloed 3400 LB. pressure plate,Muncie M-20 4 speed and Frankland Quick Change with full spool and Mark Williams 35 spline axles. It has been on the road for 13 years now, and has been ABUSED for ALL of them! has made 7 trips to Bonneville,1500 miles round trip,Drag raced, and driven to work in the summer by my Son for years.The only problem I ever had with it were some SHITTY Dutchman axles I had made for it when I first got it running.That rearend is one tough Sonofabitch!!! you'll like the ease of changing gear ratio's, I change them around all the time, about 10 min. THANKS Chris
     
  19. D.N.D.
    Joined: Aug 15, 2012
    Posts: 1,385

    D.N.D.
    Member Emeritus

    Thanks Quain

    I worked in a precision sheet metal shop in 61' and we did a lot of finish work on the alum parts we made

    That is how I knew about using a gitterbug sander to put little circles in the alum for a nice clean look, today I still think it looks the best

    Now they have a machine call the ' timsesaver ' and it is a wide belt belt sander that puts a straight lined grained pattern in the surface that I don't care for

    When you use the gitterbug on the alum is has a softer look to it for a more professional look, and not just a piece of bare shiny alum, plus it hides small scratch's from your shoes etc

    An extra note, when I first built the alum stuff I bolted everything together using lock washers , so I could take it apart if needed

    Well half of the bolts & nuts came out from the solid mounted engine, so I had to install pop rivets that next week

    G Don
     
  20. Baron
    Joined: Aug 13, 2004
    Posts: 3,641

    Baron
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I would guess very few gassers had chrome garnish moldings .... exceptional car in every way.
     
  21. D.N.D.
    Joined: Aug 15, 2012
    Posts: 1,385

    D.N.D.
    Member Emeritus

    Thanks Baron

    The car was a little plain in the interior for a street race car look and those chrome moldings set it off just right

    Plus in the early 60' that was just cool to have in your ride

    I was hanging out at Bob's Big Boy then and there was a group of every serious car guys and things like that is just what we did for a first class piece

    At the top of the list of what to have was ' Split Headman Headers ' with 4 glass packs and pipes all the way out to the rear bumper [ man what a great sound they made ]

    G Don
     
  22. CGkidd
    Joined: Mar 2, 2002
    Posts: 2,910

    CGkidd
    Member

    Don,
    Love the info you are telling us.
    Eric
     
  23. D.N.D.
    Joined: Aug 15, 2012
    Posts: 1,385

    D.N.D.
    Member Emeritus

    Hi CG

    Thanks for the kind words, it is neat to be able to talk about what went on in those days

    The 60's for were the best 10 yrs in my life, just could not of been better times

    I was involved in Gasser's - Top Gas - Top Fuel - Can-Am - Trans-Am - Crackerbox's - Stock Cars - Drag boats and dirt bikes wow what a deal for you never know what tomorrow will bring to each one of us !!!

    G Don
     
  24. powrshftr
    Joined: Mar 29, 2013
    Posts: 4,543

    powrshftr
    Member

    Don,
    If you had to pick a few of the cars that REALLY stood out in your mind from back in the heyday,from a standpoint of innovation,or really smart engineering,or even most creative interpretation of the rule book,what would a few of those cars be...?
    As an example: Something like the Mallicoat Brothers' sbc/turbo car,cars with creative engine or suspension combinations,or guys who figured out a combination that ended up working so well it became a standard setup.
    If you had a top ten list,who's cars would be on it...?

    Scott


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  25. langy
    Joined: Apr 27, 2006
    Posts: 5,730

    langy
    Member Emeritus

    In the rules I read the gas class needed to run a street interior, when did the rules change to allow beaded aluminium panels ???
     
  26. 1971BB427
    Joined: Mar 6, 2010
    Posts: 8,765

    1971BB427
    Member
    from Oregon

    You're right Steve. Rules said stock type interior, and that's why I put the naugahyde on my door panels. I think the rule may have been relaxed in the late 60's, as I see pics of cars from that era with less interior, and aluminum door panels. I can't find the rules for the '68-'69 era, and I know there were major changes made at that point, including tube frames allowed.
     
  27. langy
    Joined: Apr 27, 2006
    Posts: 5,730

    langy
    Member Emeritus

    I built mine to have stock wheelbase, 4 stock fenders, gas for fuel, stock style interior, running lights etc etc, just my interpretation of the rules
     
  28. powrshftr
    Joined: Mar 29, 2013
    Posts: 4,543

    powrshftr
    Member

    And that's exactly what they were intended to be in the first place Steve....but,like everything else,things ended up getting über-competitive,and the cars ended up become a bit light on
    the "street",and a bit heavy on the "race"......I guess it's inevitable.

    I can barely imagine how hard your car is going to be on u-joints,driveshaft,and axles...with a stock Cad 500 you're already on the high side of 500lb/ft;with the blower on there you should be able
    to REALLY wreck stuff...!:)
    Sounds like the kind of fun the rest of is wish WE were having....!:D

    Scott
     
  29. want to look at a close as you can get to period correct built gasser
    You have to see it in person to appreciate it.
    I think it will be at Greer next weekend

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  30. 1971BB427
    Joined: Mar 6, 2010
    Posts: 8,765

    1971BB427
    Member
    from Oregon

    Not to worry! Those old style skinny pie crust slicks are pretty forgiving when it comes to not hooking up under high HP drive train! ;)
     

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