Looking at 37 Chev PU, stock with truck four-speed nonsynchro. I've driven big equipment with crashbox trannys but never had one in a street driver. Looking for opinions...how annoying is a crashbox for limited street driving? Also, what are my options in trannys...is there a synchro box that swaps in? I'm not looking to change to open driveline and change out rear ends...etc. Prefer something more simple. Thanks
That just about kills all of your options. You might be able to find a little bit later Chev 3-speed that would bolt up, but then you might have to contend with the driveline issues.
Before I took apart my 1937 Chevy dump truck 20 years ago (still haven't put it back together yet) I used to drive it to high school and all over the place. It had a grannny low non-synchro 4 speed with a pto to run the dump. Once I learned how to double clutch, it wasn't too bad. I think I started out in 2nd most of the time too.
I would like to see pictures of both trucks. I would really like to see pictures of the dump truck if you have any. The double clutch method makes them a little easier to drive. Once you get used to it, it's no big deal. Don't let that stop you from buying the truck if it's a good deal. I am partial to '37's though.
Thanks guys. So in my memory, upshifting was ok as long as I shifted fast enough I could catch the engine winding down and match speeds.........of course if I missed it I had to double clutch. Dowshifting, of course, was always double clutch and quick rev. Am I remembering this right? So, is this truck a good deal? Body- no dents, just dings. Doors dont sag and shut good. Windshield cranks out and doorglass rolls down...all smoothly. Has a fairly new homedone dark green paintjob that looks kinda right on this truck. The only rust I could find is at the back of the cab where the roof section is pinched onto the back cab wall...just a couple blisters. One front fender has a little filler. Interior- Seat covered in some vinyl that looks original enough for me. All the gauges work but are nasty (has a decal kit to reface the gauges) Wheel is OK...no sawsalled holes for stereo crap. Inside is hazed over with fine mist of surface rust on the top of the dash and top edge of the doorpanels. (I thought this would scrub off with some 0000 steel wool and WD40. Mechanical- New 7.50-15 bias ply. Steering linkage good. Haven't shook the kingpins yet. A TON of money was spent on an engine overhaul. Starts easy, no puff, no rattles, idles smooth and quiet. What I like....all there, 100% original, nothing fouled up, can drive it right now and looks like a clean, original barn truck (which it is) My concerns...the nonsyncro transmission. Also wondering how fast it can be driven. Splash rods, 216, stock gearing. $5000.00 clear title. The old boy says, "Won't go no lower, don't ask. Losing money at that...you can't fix something up this good for that....not even close."
50-55 mph or it will lessen the life of that rebuild. 50 would be better IMO. these were trucks, made to haul, not cruise like a car.
If you are just going to drive it around town and occasionally on the freeway, it would probably be fine. Like was mentioned, 50-55 mph would be probably as fast as you would want to go. If the brakes aren't that good, you might want to go slower. The four speed transmission, has the compound low; which is good for pulling stumps. If you are going to drive it around, then start out in second gear. Post some pictures if you have them. For $5K, that is might be a decent deal if the truck is nice. Is it a PU, or bigger truck.
It is a pickup. I see you're from the rainy, soaking, wet socks, moss covered, fern growin, grey-clear-to-the-ground, "why do I even have my winshield wipers on?" soggy, "My project car rotted on just one year" slug infested and snotty pacific NW. So you know the value in a real "Yakima barn truck" which this is.
I think the 3 and 4 speed trans were the same length so I would try to find a 37/38 3 speed trans if you do not like the 4 speed.
They are out there and I had a few before I changed my 37 over to a T-5 and modern rear end and sold them,I seen some on bay and check Hemmings motor news. Go the the VCCA website and get on their chat site,do not have to be a member of the VCCA to join the forum and you can post a wanted add in the classified section.
If you can learn to drive the 4-speed it will probably work well for you. The three speed isn't (at least I don't think that it is) that strong.
It would be difficult to tell without seeing it. Is it what you want? If you are looking for a stock vehicle and it is in good shape, it might be a good deal.
Mine was my Grandpa's grain truck back in the day. First pic is of it hauling dirt to put around my Dad's shed. Second pic shows the rattle can scallops I threw on for my senior picture (please excuse the 1992 attempt at looking cool ). Last pic shows it as it sits today, halfway through the suspension swap I started in college but have yet to finish due to a lack of workspace (now remedied) and time......plus the whole getting married and raising kids business.
Pictures would help a lot. If the rear fenders are good (no dents or gone) they run about 800-1000 for a good set. If you just had a cab and wanted to piece the rest of it together it would take you a while and would cost about the same. I don't think that is a bad price for an orginal unmolested pickup if that's what you want. My truck is all stock body/frame with all upgraded drive train. I wanted to be able to cruise interstate speeds and take it on long road trips. Good luck with the buy.
If its complete and drivable 5000 might be a reasonable price but if the fenders are beat up then maybe not as good steel fenders are very hard to find. Mine has fiberglass fenders and running boards and a reproduction bed but my truck was free since it was in the family and since it did not cost me anything to purchase I made up for that buying parts.