Copper from Lowes for fuel line?

I drive a fridge ... cant beat the sound of a y-block ... but I regress. If you plan on racing the car then it wont pass T.I. .. go with what will. But if its a driver then copper will work but you should isolate it and remember to not set a head or manifold near or on it when changing head gaskets ... you'll find out why its called "soft" copper.

 

Why? Can't you bend the regular steel lines properly? Maybe the problem is a cheapo bender. I've never had problems bending up some partstore steel line for the fuel system. Other than forgetting to put the nut on before I flared it.

 

!. Lowe's in my area always gives VET discount (10%). Home Depot NOT!

2. Have used copper for auto trans lines and fuel lines. Never been a problem with leaking, etc.

 

I was just thinking that. In my experience run of the mill fuel line from auto parts stores lasts far less long than copper lines will. I've had at least half a dozen pinhole leaks over the years from rubber gas lines that were less than 10 years old.

Always buy fuel hose from well known brands.

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Corrosion resistance.

Use it once and you'll be hooked.
It's like crack to a guy that does more than one line every three years

 

I buy mine closer to 2.00/ft

Cunifer is a very similar alloy. Flexible like copper, doesn't work harden, corrosion resistant and all around awesome. Being from MN, I've run quite a few brake/fuel lines without a single issue.

 

The NiCopp from BrakeQuip.com is good stuff (EziBend)

I had 2 banjos silver soldered on them for my 2x4 carbs

http://59chevypickup.webs.com/apps/photos/album?albumid=13143821

 

Slick install! Thanks for the link, always looking for nicer product.

 

how much do you need. Send me a zip code and I'll ship you a short piece for shipping charges. I built an autocross race car 41 years ago with copper fuel line AND brake line and it is still going strong. I use refrigeration grade copper and it will withstand more pressure and vibration than you will ever expose it to. I have 3/8 copper fuel line in my two current hot rods and no problem. Install it properly and drive on

 

Nicopp and Cunifer are brand names.

http://www.hamel.nl/Files/File/documentatie/Cunifer_GB.pdf

http://www.agscompany.com/automotive/brake-fuel-transmission-lines/nicopp/11

Not identical, but close.

 

Where?

 

To really throw a monkey wrench in the program, it is common practice in circle track cars (sprint cars and modifieds) to plumb the brake lines with brass compression fittings and plastic brake lines. I have done several dozen cars, and it holds up just fine.

 

A proper bender is well worth the money. I've never had issues with auto parts lines, mines been on my 31 for over 25 years running.

http://imperial-tools.com/products/364-fha-lever-type-tube-benders

 

Not legal for the street, in quite a few places. Not sure what an insurance accident investigator would make of it.

 

I would never condone using plastic on a street car. I was just pointing out what is out there.

 

So every truck and trailer on the road is illegal?

 

Air brake systems are limited to ~130 psi and are quite tolerant to leaks. IIRC hydraulic brakes are about 10x that pressure, and even small leaks renders them inoperable.

Anyway i think we beat this subject to death

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Why yes, I read it on this thread..

Synflex is tough stuff, 2 layers, one outer black layer bonded to the clear inner liner. Good for fuels and air. Think about the airbraked trucks; the air compressor does put out oil film as they get miles on them, and that inner liner must be oil (or petroleum) proof. Very abrasion resistant, tough to kink or cut in service. Lots of mechanical connector types including slip fit that locks in, to reinforced compression fittings that have a crush proof inner brass tube.

 

Apples to doughnuts. Hydraulic and air brake systems are not directly comparable. 1300psi versus 130psi.

A pressure loss in an air brake system causes the parking brake to be instantly applied.

A pressure loss in an hydraulic brake system causes partial to total system failure, and requires operator intervention to apply the parking brake.

Oh, and last time that I checked, this is a rod and custom forum, not a semi-truck forum, so try to stay in context.

 

I don't get it. 5/16 and 3/8 steel lines bend easy with cheap tubing benders. I've been using the same ones for 50+ years. Use what you want for gas lines, but steel being too hard to bend is BS.

Charlie

 

Watch your blanket statements, they tend to paint folks into corners.

 

I agree Charlie, and from pals that have used that new greenish stuff from NAPA it bends even easier.

 

There was no blanket statement, and not a single statement about an individual, or group of individuals, other than urging you to remain in the context that this is a car/light truck forum, and that the response was to a post made on using plastic tubing, for car hydraulic brakes, and not anything to do with anything that does not concern this site, or issue.

 

i was not implying to use synflex as hyd brake lines, i was talking about it's uses as fuel lines, and it's durability for such use.

 

I know, and yes, it works well for that.

 

OP - Is there a reason you want/gotta have copper lines?

 

only problem I see with copper is you should never leave it in a parking lot where the scrap metal thieves can find it..........They seem to be attracted to copper...........just kidding..........

 

Bend yes, double flare no.....

 

What tool are you using to double-flare?

I use a KD Tools 41860 manual kit. I do 2-10 flares a week with it. No trouble, steel, or Cunifer. Anything but stainless.

 

Chevy Pickup in the 50's came from the factory with copper lines from the fuel tank forward