#*#October 2013 Banger Meet#*#

Probably early aftermarket- I was watching them, too... and forgot to bid

Glad it went to a Pennsyltucky HAMBer

 

Mine is not in a stock set up.

Cable from the pedal to a lever on the shaft.






then a link between the two.

 

Haha, thanks. Glad you forgot to bid.
So what axle do you suppose they are meant to fit? And what hubs?
And what steering arms? Haha.

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thanks, daddyooooooo

 

Are there any options for a basic higher compression head on a model B that retains the B pump? Seems like all the other heads I see use A pumps. Is it feasible (I know anything is possible with enough bucks) to increase a stock "B" head? Just looking to get to high 5's
in compression. To be clear I am talking the B head with the C on it, not the police head.

Thanks.

 

Most likely, they are Modelt t aftermarket. If you post them on MTFCA.com, someone should be able to positively id them.

 

You might do a little research on early flat head V 8 hot rods I remember guys talking about milled and filled heads. I believe it was pretty common until high compression heads became available I have a Winfield head that has some braze build up in compression chambers. That head has been milled approx. .060, maybe to correct warping? Those oldtimers were good at such things as brazing cast iron with a minimum of warpage and cracking. Might be a good idea to experiment on another head first. Some pretty amazing epoxies out there.

 

WAAAYYY beyond my abilities…. seems that would put me back into an A head, I would hate to screw up a B/C head.

 

You asked.

 

And I appreciate the answer. I will ask my machinist friend about it…. I was just like oh crap…. like I know some guys in the day cast their own heads…. if I can't pay someone to do it, I ain't getting it for years….

 

Mill and Fill the head....
I was thinking about that in the past and I was thinking it would make for hot spots because of the thick and thin. Short runs like drag racing I think it would work great but for the long drive it might not be the best. Or I could be over thinking again
I never ask before but it out there now

What's the 2 cents of the banger pros


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Cylinder heads, good subject matter.

the attached pic is an experimental chamber for an overhead machined.
It is way rough in the programming to shorten machine time.

This seems to be the current wave of tech and construction.

J

 

Maybe they are early Overland spindles? Here's a post on the MTFCA forum discussing using an Overland axle for a speedster:
http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/118802/140823.html

 

I'll go to my storage and look....... we've a full front axle somewhere there

 

so it looks like I end up with an "A" style head. What is the preferred water pump set up for a basic engine like this? I know I need to read Jim's book, but it is out of print right now.

 

If these are late '20s Chrysler tube axle spindles there was an axle missing them at Hershey. Bob

 

Looks like you may be on to something there with the Overland
pics. Guess I'm on the hunt for Overland steering arms, hubs and wire wheels. Lol.

That would be great, thanks.

Not familiar at all with the early Chrysler stuff. Didn't they have brakes?

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And the plug location?

Herb

 

The term was used during the time of early lakes competition.

 

Herb,

no location set as of yet. This shape is too restrictive to the intake valve and will change.
As for plug theory, who knows, some say place near ex valve, others toward intake. My opinion is anywhere the valves will not hit it and not require indexing plugs.

J

 

I'm using the stock A pump on my 2 port with a narrowed original 2 blade fan. Put a thermostat in it cause it took so long to warm up. But because of space problems I use a 21 stud flathead V8 pump with adapter on my Winfield flathead. Also use electric fan as total coolant capacity is 8 quarts. Engine runs best between 180 and 190 degrees. It takes that much temp for Al intake manifolds to work, at least it does with Winfield carbs. As long as the balance tube is cool to the touch the engine stumbles off the line

 

Looks very interesting!!! Perhaps a separate build thread is in order? Or too soon?

 

Jim,

yep too early for a build thread.
I have a cyl head in testing currently and working on another flathead design.

The sample was to determine the amount of work to cut a chamber from layout.
Total time about 4 hours from cad layout to what you see in pic.

I will be posting some pics as I go along, be assured, the very best stuff will never be shown.

J

 

Okay guy's don't roast me if this is a stupid question. Any one have any tips, tricks or special jigs for swedging in new wheel studs? I bought the studs and the tool and used works 60 ton hyd press. I had a few goes at it with different packers to hold the stud up. Some 3/4" rod then some 6" pipe with a washer under the stud. Nothing looked very secure and I ended up with a loose stud pressed into the tool! I am useing a standard pressed rear drum and have machined 1/16th off of the stud like I was told because the new studs are made to fit cast drums. Any help would be appreciated.

 

You need to machine a support that that nest the stud. The wider the bottom the better the support.
Ford Barn has a lot more info on this


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Hi not a reply to anything, I don't grt sny posts even tho I am subscribed to the Banger . Anybody else have this problem, or any suggestions?
thanks Ken

 

Have you seen this? Model A Ford Garage ~ Model A, B, & V8 Ford Wheel Stud Swaging

 

BC, I'll check out the barn.
62pan, Thanks for the link.

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Here's my front plate for the Model T. Cast from my patterns, it uses the gears from a small block Chevy!

 

Nice work young Devil like your style have you considered an angle drive dizzy off the front of the cam it would open it up to the use of modern electronic dizzys.
Rusty