You can buy an adapter plate to mount that to a 6-71 intake and any blower drive can be adapted the big issue is the front cover that has to be made Chrome don't get ya home
Things may have changed over the last year...better? Maybe? But i'll have to say I've got way less into my blower and all the parts and pieces then that front drive costs. Not to mention not a lot of people really look at that part. Cheap idler bracket and used pulley and i was set just over 100 bucks....
That's the route I'm thinking I will probably go...I have a real nice front cover that I can just clean up and re-use,and I will get my boys at the shop over in Lapeer to hook me up with some used bits and pieces to assemble a front drive and idler setup.Should be pretty cost effective,leaving more padding in the budget for a roller cam. Scott Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
60 Bel Air while I love the looks of your A, everytime I see red fuel line I cringe. Over the years have seen way too many cars turned into fire balls with that shit. Do yourself a favor and bend up some steel lines to your fuel block ........... JMHO
Yes. The blower still has most of the original Detroit Diesel green on it....It's the way I found it and wanted to keep the original patina on it. I painted the block and heads the same color.
Created it, genuine Wieand 4-71 blower manifold, snout and pulleys all machined by hand. Took a bit to get the belt sitting in the right place when running. Have had this motor/set up together for about 15 years now (in two different rods) and man does it like to Boogie
Dyers Blowers sells those type of adaptor plates for a bunch of Engines , I have one for a Pontiac the v style blower sits in a small notch to keep it in place . basically a 1" thick plate of aluminum Tigged to a open plenum, dual quad , or short ram base .
What would some of you guys say a fair price would be for a couple of used drive pulleys and a used idler pulley setup?Im looking at stuff online and I think they got the decimal in the wrong place!lol! Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Holy crap, a 671 with a prolapsed bowel But that said, its wasnt built for a beauty contest, so all power to him.
I get excited when I find 1/2" pitch pulleys for $50.00. But you need to watch the 2" or 2.25 register and make sure they aren't screwed up. Idler brackets amaze me, there's cheap all the way to astronomical. If all you need to do is hold the idler, you can do it cheap. Want it to look cool and vintage? Not cheap. Drives are not necessarily cheap either. Now I believe that someone with plenty of experience with blowers can piece together a drive setup pretty cheap by knowing how the stuff goes together. It probably won't look the best but it will drive the blower. I have an entire drive out of mismatched parts and a few custom made parts to make it work, I didn't put it together. It's presentable. I also believe a nice drive that's cool and vintage isn't cheap no matter who puts it together. I got tired of searching info, hunting parts, fixing junk, and fitting-parts , trust me it took a L O N G time and a lot of aggrivation to break me. I bought the weiand vintage drive set up, and 2 pulleys. Not cheap and saved my pennies for a while to get it. Exterior casting wise it's identical to the original pieces from 1960. Some of the bolts supplied are different but easy remedies to that. If I wasn't so stubborn and bought the drive earlier I'd be further ahead and if I wasn't sticking to a 1962 build I'd be done already.
Here's my Potvin Setup... It's a "brand new" Detroit 6-71 (was still in the original box). Not sure if it's "In-line" or not...? Still working on the final configuration. I built the adapter plate to use in my Charger with a 340 LA engine. I later found that the 318 Poly use the same watr pump and other things. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=9244217#post9244217 It'll most likeley go in my Sedan later. Tommy
yah, 50 bucks a pulley is good. Got a few on here for that price. Idler brackets, simple basic style was 40ish. Used Idler pulley was 60 or 70. Used RCI blower hub 70 at swap meet, and bit the bullet on a BDS single V-belt pulley(motor was at the build shop and i needed it) that was over a 100 i believe. Yes, you can do it cheap if you hunt and search for parts. Blower rebuild was dirt cheap from a hamber...not to mention it pulled 16 psi on the dyno with a 1:1 pulley...so it wasn't a cheap(quality) build.
Hey Tommy, That is one cool setup!Is the Charger strictly a drag car,or will it see some street time?Is there room for a rad with that setup? Also,The mounting tabs look like that's a 6v71,but don't let anybody discourage you;I posted pics on here a few days ago of a Buick funny car from back in the day that ran a 6V71,and it was a serious machine. Post up some pics of your build if you get a chance... Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Strip: It will be for the street only (We don't have Race Track and probaly never will again). Change in plans: Charger will be finished and for sale without this engine. It will go in my 30 Sedan later so the radiator will have to go in the back, Blower through the "radiator" shell. 6V71: My Poly is beeing built with 8.0:1 compression slugs. Since it's crank driven I can't change the pulleys on it and I want to keep the compression below 8 pounds...at least for now, so it's probably good that the 6V71 isn't the most efficient blower?...is it? I may have to build a pressure bypass system controlled by the EFI. EFI: Yes it will be fuel injected (home built Megasquirt) with both fuel injetion, spark advance/retard & pressure control. (I'll hide it as much as possible!) Injector: Last part to find is a 4-71 or 6-71 Hilborn injector for a reasonable price... It will have two injectors to cool the blower and the other 8 in the intake. 6V71: I will have to reset the blower to be used for Gasoline and i also have to reverse it (move the drive to the other side)...all's a new experience / stuff to learn! Tommy
I didn't realize that 2wd blocks were safe on the front. I only knew what I heard from the 4wd crowd. Didn't mean to offend you and was unaware of the previous discussion about it. Cheers, Ryan
THE 4-71 I'VE BEEN TINKERING WITH FOR A WHILE. WILL HAVE THE SMOOTH BEARING PLATES AND SQUARED FRONT COVER WHEN THE REBUILD GETS DONE. CONTEMPLATING LOSING THE MECHANICAL PUMP AND RUNNING E85. THAT'S IF I EVER GET IT RUNNING!
Tommy, I'm quite sure a 6- and a 6v are the same size blower once you get past the mounting system. In their original use they both fed the same size engines with the same power output
being its a potvin set up no need to worry if its a V type or straight type as the blower is mounted to the nose of the case instead of the sides . only when its belt driven on top of manifold you have to worry about the difference .
yes you go by the second set of numbers which is cid per cylinder , a 6-71 is 426 cid per revolution , your more than likely have to have a bov to bleed off a little pressure as most 350's are under driven about 5-10 % on a street car . as for injecting to cool it there is no need as long as the lobes are clearanced right and running a Bov you do not want any fuel in the mix . as in stock form it runs dry . only when the clearances are tight like a racing unit do we run them wet .
A Detroit Diesel "GMC" Straight series 6-71 (large bore) blower is approx. 420 CID per rev. A Detroit Diesel "GMC" "V" series 6V71 blower is approx. 338 CID per rev.
I'm curious why that should be, as both work on a 6 71 capacity motor, but I would imagine they simply rotate the blower at a faster speed on the V to produce the same amount of scavenging air volume.
That there looks sooo sweet Topping it with SP makes it outstanding! ............................... Taildragger&fenderless
Rotors will not interchange between a inline 6-71 and a 6v-71 they are the same diameter but not the same length Chrome don't get ya home
Not to cause any trouble here but I have 3 6v-71 blowers and probly a dozen inline 6-71 and not to mention several 4-53 and 6v-53 and I know for a fact that you can't interchange the rotors from a 6-71 inline and a 6v-71 the rotors and case are shorter in length but the same diameter and are a three lobe twisted style where the 6v-53 is a two lobe straight rotor and are much smaller in diameter than the 71 series Chrome don't get ya home
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