So I had been on the lookout for a coupe for quite sometime. But a 29 Roadster with a 40s style build caught my eye on Ebay and I decided I liked Roadsters too. Anyway I was up early Friday AM getting my daughter up for XC practice and I saw an ad for a 31 Roadster body on Craigslist. Photos made the body look really solid, California car brought to Denver in 1958 then bought by his nephew and moved to Texas in 2008. I texted the owner that I would take it and wanted to pick it up that AM before someone else jumped on it. Anyway he had to work and could not meet me before 7PM. I was sweating all day hoping I would get this car and not get into a bidding war. Finally about 4PM I get a text with the address, owner came thru even though he had 4 offers after mine. I did not dicker on price as his advertised price was very fair for such a clean body. Anyhow body only has 2 small cancer spots, Brookville doors and firewall, steel floor. Just a really solid body that a 'rookie' metal worker like me can handle. Just finishing disassembly of my 53 F100 for paint so this will sit on the back burner as I need to force myself to finish it first. Time to start collecting parts, want to do a 50s style AV8 and I already have the 59AB engine I bought a couple years ago for this day that just needs a simple rebuild. No frame yet but want to do a high boy. What do you guys think on frames, worth buying an original and blasting straightening etc or just spend roughly the same amount for a new perimeter frame? Also the engine will be stock, maybe a 2x2 intake and some heads later. Will a stock Model A rear be fine? Have a lead on one with juice brakes for cheap.
Plenty others like me, will say once you start adding repro stuff, the build loses something. JMO, I'd get an original....because you have a nice shell to build from. If it was a so-so build with a beat body, then maybe a new frame would make the build go quicker.
Nice score, origonal parts whenever you can. Hunting down good used vintage parts is part of the fun, it also keps the cost down.
....x2 I'm now really enjoying the fact I stuck to "the plan" and kept with all original '40s type stuff for my car. A nice genuine original old body deserves a nice genuine original old frame etc. You've got a period-perfect engine already (as opposed to a new crate SBC etc) so my advice is "follow through" with it - you won't regret keeping it true. The Model A rear would be fine to start with if it's in good nick but it won't stand any V8 abuse! It will get you on the road though in the meantime if required. Happy days ahead....
Got an axle and spring today with juice brakes. Can anyone id these brakes? Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Thank you. Anyone have an idea what the rectangular cut outs for taillights might be? They we're cut with a torch and holes drilled on each side. Visible in third picture from the first post.
What a great find! Smart move just paying the guy and taking it home. If you plan on using an A frame get an original. I'm using repo '32 rails on my '30 Roadster due to the cost of originals, and I can live with that. Collect all the parts, finish the pick up first. Bob
I like what your talking about. If your going to do a true 40's style stay away from reproduction frames. They are all done with rectangle tube, not C Chanel. Just looks Wrong right out of the gate. I'm in the middle of one myself and have really stuck to Pre 48 with some twists but nothing you going to Spot right off. Not quite as easy as I thought it would be. The Wizzard
It came with a decent windshield but I don't think it's the right one. Any ideas. Maybe a chopped 28-29 Roadster? 41 wide base, 42.5 wide top, 11.5 tall sides, 9.5 tall middle
I turned it around because the lower curve looked wrong when the pic was upside down. Now that it's flipped it does not look wrong. Does the curve fit the cowl OK?
Bought that before the car Anyone with a 28/29 Roadster confirm my window dimensions on previous post?
I was looking at the photo of the backing plate bolted to the rear, why is it mounted so the wheel cylinder is not at the top?
Answer is so the brake line and bleeder valve clears the spring mount. Don't worry about it. The Wizzard
Thought I would post an update. Body is raw steel and just got some tires front are 450/475-16 rears are 670-16. Switching gears to a 63 283 SBC but gonna keep the unsplit wishbone, 32 K Member and closed drive Banjo and 39 Ford 3 speed. That way I can go back to the Flathead plan some day.
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