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Projects crminal coupe, an attempt at a 31 A build

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by crminal, Aug 13, 2013.

  1. So here it is. After 1 year of building my very first hot rod, I am starting my build thread. Really did not know know what I was doing but with the vast knowledge of the Hamb, it is moving along. I have a 29 coupe which I am leaving as a hopped up survivor car, but for this 31 coupe, "wanted a V8". Started thinking I'd use a nice 302 that I had built for my econoline project, but it felt too modern for this build. Seriously love flattys but wanted something a little more advanced. So.....292 Yblock it is!

    The car came to me through my brother in law who knew of a co-worker trying to sell the old family car (his grandfathers). He even had the original title from 1932. Thanks to my brother in law or this would not have happened.
    Here she is when she got home.
    IMG_1119.jpg

    Stripped her down
    IMG_1168.jpg

    Then some more
    IMG_1178.jpg

    And ended up with this beauty! And a frame with a good CA VIN!
    IMG_1169.jpg

    Decided to spend the money and have the frame sandblasted... worth every penny!
    IMG_1221.jpg

    Bought a new So Ca. spring, shackles, axle and spindles off Craigslist. Really kind of scary at this point because I really don't want to build a catalog car and it's so easy to get in that groove. Want to stay with using as many old parts as possible.
     
    Last edited: Sep 14, 2013
    lothiandon1940 likes this.
  2. I was really trying to keep this on a budget that did not get out of hand. I sold off the parts I would not need and started on my build fund.
    Again, the hamb was a good source for buying old parts.

    So, I'll start with the rear. Want to drop it about 3" and decide that it will be simpler to use coil overs in the rear. Never having done this before, it seems like a Speedway rear frame kit will be the way to go.
    IMG_1237.jpg

    Wrong! about 3" too narrow for a stock frame. I'm figuring it out about now that I'll be making up my own parts whenever possible.
    So, locate the rear axle (narrowed 9" Ford with Currie axles bought from the hamb) and build my own rear frame piece.
    IMG_1274.jpg
    IMG_1268.jpg

    Jig up the axle mounts for the Pete&Jakes ladder bar kit (Alliance membership paying off)
    IMG_1260.jpg
    IMG_1258.jpg
    IMG_1264.jpg
     
  3. pila38
    Joined: Mar 25, 2009
    Posts: 777

    pila38
    Member

    Lookin' nice man. Keep it up.
     
  4. dad-bud
    Joined: Aug 22, 2009
    Posts: 3,884

    dad-bud
    Member

    Keep posting criminal - it looks like you've started with a great coupe there.
    Thanks.
     

  5. Moving right along.....
    Notched the frame for axle travel, plated the frame and rear crossmember, and installed the panhard bar.
    IMG_1262.jpg IMG_1293.jpg IMG_1298.jpg

    Made up some nifty upper shock mounts
    IMG_1286.jpg IMG_1285.jpg
     
  6. jim henderson
    Joined: Jul 26, 2013
    Posts: 30

    jim henderson

  7. MATACONCEPTS
    Joined: Aug 7, 2009
    Posts: 2,069

    MATACONCEPTS
    BANNED

    there it is. Wheres the Y-Block?
     
  8. Oh, it's hiding around here somewhere...... ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1376420558.966546.jpg
     
  9. So along the way, I find this 292 on the Hamb. A couple of cool old guys pulled it out of a '59 truck in running condition and it was so complete, I drove to Yuma to get it. Called McTim with the vital numbers and bought it. Btw, McTim has been more helpful than he knows! ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1376422691.432456.jpg
    But how will that fit? After lamenting about cutting the firewall and such, I realize that this is hot rod building. If I want to stretch the frame 3 1/2" and not run a hood, so be it. I come up with this hair brain idea!
    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1376422907.003819.jpg
    (I hope so at least ;~)

    Move the crossmember forward 3 1/2".
    So I drill the rivets and remove the xmember.
    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1376423095.832544.jpg

    Mark and cut the frame, leaving the top flange
    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1376423207.983079.jpg
    Sandwiched the upper flange between to pcs. of heavy steel and clamped until flat. Tacked the gaps in position and welded.
    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1376423356.651761.jpg
    Made a backing piece, fitted to the inside, clamped the heck out of it and welded it in
    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1376423462.855041.jpg
    Got enough real estate now! ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1376423519.725812.jpg
    Stay tuned....

    And thanks to those posting comments!
     
  10. Hey guys, trying to keep up with this! Here goes...

    When I moved the crossmember forward, I had done all the figuring by measurement and not with the body in place. Now it was time to set the body on and hope it all fit. As mentioned, I did not want a cut firewall and I had to run a mechanical fan.

    I start cutting the portion of the subframe where the frame had a kick-up. The body had some rust just above the axles at the body edge. So, it gets cut out along with some of the floor panels.
    IMG_1416.jpg

    IMG_1415.jpg

    I bought some new inner fender panels from a Hamber and will replace when the time comes.

    Well, Its Mothers day and there are a bunch of guys hanging around wanting to do something constructive, so...
    The body goes on!
    IMG_1590.JPG and the engines goes in.
    IMG_1593.JPG

    And a cigar for my hard work:p
    IMG_1591.JPG

    This might just work:eek:
    IMG_1447.jpg
     
  11. chevy54man
    Joined: Feb 7, 2013
    Posts: 1,683

    chevy54man
    Member
    from NC

    Great work man, love your coupe!
     
  12. nunattax
    Joined: Jan 10, 2011
    Posts: 3,052

    nunattax
    Member
    from IRELAND

  13. Thanks Guys! Appreciated

    I'll post some more photos of how it all fit in there soon.
     
  14. ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1376940278.739626.jpg ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1376940316.512987.jpg Looks like Ford allowed for that dizzy to fit right in there!
    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1376940407.230421.jpg if you look up where the tail shaft is compared to the crossmember, looks like a mod needs to happen there.
    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1376940542.231615.jpg too close for me. What kind of clearance do we like to have here?
     
  15. Also, I trimmed the stock crossmember to allow for the trans. I'll figure all that out later.
    Now, got to get the motor lined up and in place.
    Motor mounts, bought the ready made bases and rubber, but need to make the upper. Using some 3/16" material, started drawing and cutting.
    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1377608052.895737.jpg ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1377608163.580764.jpg
    Welding
    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1377608238.509218.jpg
    Welded some tabs on the frame mounts so I could clamp them to the frame
    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1377608322.819070.jpg
    I'm welding this inside the frame rail and will box around them.
    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1377608462.485401.jpg

    And like it or leave it, this is what I ended up with...
    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1377608601.509646.jpg
     
    Last edited: Aug 27, 2013
  16. Thanks Bib, appreciated.

    So with the engine in place, time to start working around some issues. One is the lack of space to be taken up by the steering, oil filter and exhaust.

    I really want to use these manifolds
    IMG_1570.jpg

    and a modified F1 box
    IMG_1569.jpg
     
  17. Great stuff. Good to see a Ford engine with the dizzy at the right end, haha. Jk
     
    lothiandon1940 likes this.
  18. Great job so far! I'm sorry I didn't check in here earlier. Great fab work, I like what you've done. Keep it up! :)
     
    lothiandon1940 likes this.
  19. Not sure if there is enough room to put a remote adapter on for the oil filter.
     
  20. There is something headed his way that may work. We'll see.
     
  21. Looking forward to it. I'm stuffing an Olds 394 in and A frame so I'm having some of the same issues.
     
  22. Well, I gotta say that McTim is a one of a kind good guy. Sent me this 90* adapter to try and solve my issue with the filter.
    IMG_1673.jpg
    Got a pretty damned good fit and missed the steering box but pointed it right into my motor mount :mad:
    Unfortunately, the way it is made, I can't clock it to between 7-8 o'clock where it may have fit.

    I'm going to try the Ford racing 90* adapter and see what I get.

    Thanks again Tim!
     
  23. frankie3555
    Joined: May 21, 2013
    Posts: 19

    frankie3555
    Member
    from Leeds, Al

    If you run out of choices..I used this one from Canton. It can rotate 360 degrees and will NOT leak. They are a little pricey but if you look around you can get one for about $80. It may not be old school friendly but you could disguise it somehow.[​IMG]
     
  24. Good choice. I actually talked to Bob at Canton this afternoon about that part. If the Ford "all in one" style doesn't work, that is what I will use. Trying to avoid lines if possible. Thanks for the tip!
     
  25. Damn!!!
     
  26. ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1380230125.236524.jpg
    And we have success!
     
    32owner likes this.
  27. Yikes. Lube it up and push it in. That's a tight fit. Good score!
     

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