wow read the whole thread. i feel bad for you. i know how it is. theres only so much toy money and we never seem to have enough of it. if i were you id throw a mild engine in it and just drive it around town.
Between you and Gary this past weekend,Cant take the pressure of having two friends being close to becoming worm bait!!!Knock it off!!!! Very relieved to see you are both in one piece.
Swade, I told you that water pump you were running was gonna cause this! I would've never told you while it was running, but now I can say "told you so"! Hope you got a chuckle man, you need it!
Damn Swade....again?.....But like you said, at least the body didnt take a hit! Maybe time to go Big Block!
Sorry to hear this, Phil. It really sucks! Time to sit back for a while and get new plans made.......including, I hope, a new builder and the best parts you can afford.
That is one of my plans, I will drop in a spare 454 I have to see how/if it all lines up. If it don't then it don't. Of course a different builder will be used and sitting back is the plan. Maybe it will become an urban legend, you know the car that used to yank the wheels that the old guy won't take out of the garage anymore...lol
It really amazes me how some engines can get built rolling around on a dirt floor or in a sandbox and have no trouble with it. Then there's some that get built in multimillion dollar clean rooms and measured with every conceivable device that blow up on the test stand. I'd say you try the more traditional route before letting the car become a legend. Get a few engines from the junk yard and strip them to short blocks. Put your good stuff on it the short block and go racing. The vortec roller engines are getting popular in the cheap pull a part yards. Stick a blower on the thing, feed it race gas and have fun. Isn't that how they used to do it?
Maybe a hundred 1/8 mile runs ? Just counted 34 time slips from this year and I'm sure there are some out in my truck and would guess about the same for last year.
This one is not as bad looking on the inside as the other, the pan sure took a ripping though Number 4 rod broke near piston and just wailed the shit out of everything
I'm going to put in my 2 cents - Just my opinion. As a professional engine builder I see from the pictures that this engine has stock GM powdered rods. I also noticed ARP rod bolts.Its easy to see what part failed. Those rods have no place in a high performance application. We see so many engines come to in my shop that have powderd rod failure. Hard to believe any "engine shop" would put these in your engine. Its the first part we take out and put right in the recycle barrel. Thats my opinion. Matt from Pro-Formance Specialties Inc. http://www.pro-formancespecialties.com/
I don't understand ? Few years ago you said the builder "threw in a set a forged rods". I assumed that was a way of making things up to you. Big difference between powdered and forged rods.
Are you using a timing light recommended by MSD? Many of the Dial Back timing lights do not work well with any of the high EMF ignition systems.
Phil, its a hard thing to do getting (dual use) icecream and timing slips. Hope you can get it back (at least for icecream) on the ROAD. 1/8th mile can be next year. I'll remind you again you are a BAD(moon) influence to my stock Henry... because when the 161ci engine lets go i'm going copy you... gook luck Keep us posted.
Maybe it's time to try another brand with some beef in the bottom end:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D_7uKKdpWlA Lot's of these 400 M motors laying around cheap,take a look at these HP and Torque numbers:http://www.popularhotrodding.com/tech/0902phr_jon_kaase_400m_ford_engine/viewall.html
Dang you about tired of that hee haa song you know the one if it wernt for bad luck Id have no luck at all. Sorry looks like it took out a nice pan.
Hopefully you just copy the making it look killer and haul butt. No the bi-yearly fireworks. I just read this whole thread and what has happened truely blows. Best of luck with the next one.
Nothing wrong with his choice of motors, just a builder using parts not intended for their current use. Hypereutectic pistons and powered metal rods work fine on a stock street engine. The builder has gotta realize what he using isn't up to the task!
Ok Swade, we have a brand new set of Elgin 5.700 long rods with ARP bolts, and set up for pressed pins that we bought at the Long Beach Swap Meet several years ago. I would check them dimensionally(big end bore, little end bores etc). They have enough thickness around the pin bore, that you could bush/ float them if you want. They are nothing fancy, but definetly better than stock production/powdered, or even "Pink" rods.., and the best part is.., there free! I can also offer you a set of our CP/Bullet Pistons which come complete with a very high quality ring set, at a very friendly price. I personally would stay with the small block because its cheaper, and the car is already set up for it. Let me know, Ric. Build a 383 or 400, swap meet/horse trade for every thing but the heads, with the money you've saved, call Bryce at Air Wolf Cylinder Heads, and buy a set of his entry level cnc ported heads. They flow 325 cfm @ .600 lift and are $1700.00 pair complete. If you can't make 550-600hp (depending on the rest of the parts), I'll eat a bug. We just built a budget 400 for my sisters daily driver '56 Chevy. Its 10.0:1, has a 240 @ .050 x .500 lift hyd. cam, TFS Twisted wedge heads that flow 255-260 cfm, a two plane Dart intake, and a 750 Holley vaccum secondary carb, made 533hp & 520 TQ.
If I keep my heads and intake combo and just work on a short block, would the 383 combo or the 400 be the best to work from. If I'm starting with only a block and buy a rotating assembly then what's going to make the best power ? I'm picking up a complete 400 small block (staying Chevy) that was running when pulled and still rotates fine. All stock so will need rebuilt but money back guarantee that it is a good engine cheap. I also have a 4 bolt main 010 block 350 in my t-bucket that could be the foundation. Another couple scenarios, junkyard one piece seal roller cam 350. Finally I looked at an engine that went 7.60 (1/8mi) in a light weight car that is a 350 ci 010 block but not sure if it is stroked or not, 461 heads and a low profile Offy 2x4 intake with Carters. Complete but unsure of build because previous owner passed, for a decent price.
Personally, I don't like the 400 blocks because the siamesed bore and consequent poor water circulation often cause problems. IMO, if you want a bore that big, you need to go to an aftermarket block. The short rods in a 400 are also a problem, exacerberated by the longer stroke of a 383 or 400. I believe a 3.750 or longer stroke needs a 6.00 rod to live and perform to it's potential from all those cubic inches. I've seen a lot of broken stock length rods in modded 400 engines, also 383's with 400 rods. Face it, the 400 is a damn dump truck motor, pure and simple, GM knows it, and you never saw them use it in a real, high rpm, high performance engine. If you want/need all those inches, then to make it last you gotta spend some real bucks. IMO, a .030 over 350 is about as big as you should go with a low buck engine.
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