I know what your thinking,not another one of these threads. However I post pics with my questions. I'm trying to help out the family with a price. Thanks
Arkansas Title can be gotten. The fenders are there as well as the windshield frame. Is it a 500.00 car or 1500.00 car. Someone give me a range.
Gotta be worth at least $1500. A title alone is worth about $500.... Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
You price range is about correct. Things that matter are is motor loose, how solid it really is, are most parts correct for the year. T's had a lot of things changed over the years, so a car with all the bits from the original car will make it worth more money to the restorer.
Ask $1,500 and the first to come even anywhere close takes it. The Ts don't go for high dollars unless they are pre 1915. It would double the price if it was proved that old.
I went and looked at this T a little closer and it does have a Brass Radiator. I researched Brass radiators for Model T's and they made them up to 1916. So I am assuming/guessing its a 1916 or earlier. I'm hoping to buy it right. What ever right is.
If it has a solid brass radiator then it would be older but they also had brass radiator shells that were used on cars up til the Model As came out. I service a 1926 that has a brass shell on it.
It is early... the hood is much more square then the later years. I'd put it between 1912 - 1915... ad $1500 is a great price for what's there, regardless of if the engine turns over.. looking at the rest of the car I would probably bet it doesn't Brass radiators did stop in '16 after that it was paint or nickle...
If I hadn't already paid $600 for a fiberglass tub (looks to be pretty good to me), I'd give $1500 for that all day long (given the body is not all rusted to shit). I would sell the "T" parts, and come out way ahead. And an available title? If I were closer to Arkansas, I'd be on that like a rat on a Cheetoh!
I think $1500 is a bit low. 2 to 3 thousand would be closer. Try fordbarn.com it's a sister to the jalopy Journal.
If somebody took a little time to clean it up and go through and inventory the parts, that alone would push the selling price up a good bit. Some fresh primer, even more. Early T's do not grow on trees anymore.
The one from Austrailia, with fenders, in this months Street Rodder would change your mind. It's fantastic.
From what can be seen in the pic`s my quess it`s a 16 if all parts are correct on it.The hood looks like it`s steel.The 15`s had alumunim hoods.On the engine block on the left side ,behind the water outlet should be a date cast in the block ie 32316 whick would be march 23rd 1916 that would be the casting date of engine if the engine is orginal to car.I see some early stuff on there that cost more than the later stuff.15`s and 16`s are desirable in the restore world like 32`s and 34`s are to hot rodders.
As a further note, in some states a title or not doesn't mean shit, it's easy to get one if need be, so it only is an issue to buyers from states where it's not easy to get one.
Why do some sellers insist on blowing a fresh slop of primer on everything they sell? Fresh primer on a car for sale is only going to make prospective buyers offer LESS. Most buyers will want to actually see the metal, etc. and will only think you're trying to hide crappy metal or quickie body work. The eventual buyer is only faced with an additional coat to sand off.
Around here, $1500 would be a steal for that. Could probably get double that with a proper title. As for the primer thing, it's a sad but true type situation, at least, in my personal experience. I don't like to buy anything in primer, but I've had cars sit for sale for months without a taker, then prime it all one color and give it a good detailing, then sell right away. When it comes to selling stuff on the internet, having it look good in a picture seems to make a world of difference.
There is no primer. The paint was stripped years ago. I'm trying to buy it but the owners daughter thinks its worth more than I want to give , especially with no title. I would be buying it to re-sell.
The nickle plated radiator SHELLS in 26 &27 were stamped out of brass and had round holes to hold the lacing. The painted shells were stamped out of steel and the lace holes were rectanglular with a notch in them. But... 16 and earlier radiators were made of brass and much more angular than the newer shells. No way anyone could mistake one for the other.
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