home made tools and equipment...

Nice tool!! I used to use an open end wrench to finish and tune up the ends of beads that didn't turn out on the ends. Most of the time the dies I use now get the ends good and mostly flat. It's tough when you try punching beads 3/4 or wider.

 

Ive also used open end wrenches. Great Idea!

 

Lazze in California uses a hole punch which has been grinded to suit the bead size. Very simple and effective.

Mtw fdu.

 

Yeah, that's a good idea. I guess he grinds the sharp end off somewhat to increase the wall thickness too? I may have to try that. Much less work than what I did here.

 

A hole punch? I don't see how that would work.

 

If I recall he ground of one side so it was a "C" shape to fit around the end of the bead. Same principle as the tool above just a different way to get there. Look up Lazze Metalshaping on YouTube, its in one of the bead roller videos.

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Thanks studeboy, I was having trouble visualizing it as well [which doesn't take much sometimes].

Ed

 

All they are doing is finishing the end of the bead, the bead roller leaves more of a ramp or taper at the end. So to finish it so it looks it was stamped with a nicely round finished end it needs to be stretch a little at the end. Not all beads end that way, some will intersect with another, you will need to address that joint by hand as a bead roller or pullmax can not overlap a bead.

 

What he is referring to as a hole punch is actually a gasket or leather punch that you can buy at the china tool shop at the swap meets.

An easy way to do this with an unlimited # of sizes is to take an open end wrench , place it at the end of the bead and give it a good whack ,done deal.

That being said if you have access to machine tools I would make dedicated coining tools for the rollers I have on hand.

I mainly use this on one off beads that I don't use everyday.

 

Talk without pics or video doesn't help.

Lazze's vid clip,

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JxwstKY_yNI


I like Ron's tool better, nice work!

 

Sweet! Thanks mgermca for posting.

 

i made this micro power hammer. it's powered by handwound magnet wire coils,and is sprung like a helve hammer. i made it a baileigh because i think the're cool,and HAMB guys doing a lot for the craft . i have not had a chance to try it yet, but tomorrow i'm going to mess up some pepsi cans .i don't think this is too far off topic, hopefully its powerful enough to be able to fine tune trim ends, dash insert work etc.

 

Here is a video of our power hammer we just finished. It was built of an old lumberyard band saw.


http://s23.photobucket.com/user/jonpreeder/media/100_5606_zpsaa9e3c00.mp4.html

 

That band saw frame does not have enough backbone for a power hammer . You could take that Ewheel you have and convert it to the saw frame and you would have a usable piece of equipment . The ratio of backbone to depth of machine is what makes the difference of a usable machine and a space hog that wont get used because of poor performance.

The fact that you are a profetional shop filled with young talent , now is the time to invest in proper equipment that will take you far into the future .

 

Power hammers such as yoder, pettingell or helve hammers have a spring in them to bounce the dies off the material.

Don't think I am trying to be a jerk by saying this, but that is considered a reciprocating machine. That is unless you have some kind of sprung connection in there I don't see.

All that aside depending on how rigid it is you have a pretty cool machine.

 

one of those no right or wrong answer deal, it's powered, and it has a hammer action, it is more like a pullmax style machine.

 

I see what your saying about the spring action. So far it does the job better then what we had which was nothing lol. It took about 5 passes to make the piece in video which I didn't think was too bad. It's like alot of other things in the world were you work with what you have available to build with. As much as we will use this, I could not justify investing $5000+ dollars in a pre built machine. It was based of plans we bought from tinmantech. We of course had to make some changes to work with our frame.

 

Coolest thing I've seen all day!

 

great job, what or how are you getting the coil to turn on and off, do you have pics of it before you put it together?

 

I completely know where you're coming from. You gotta work with what you've got until you can afford better. Keep on hammering.

 

I'm going to do a separate build thread tonight, tried it today and it works awesome on thin aluminum. basically I use a 12v variable power supply

 

Needed a tool to align the oil pump drive after removing the distributor for installation of a Pertronix Ignitor II. Worked like a champ, cost $0.00!

 

Ill get in on this...I made a hand press break to bend sheet metal and flat bar..bout 14" wide.

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Make a youtube video of that thing working!

 

For upper ball joints on a arms I use a small bottle jack in between the upper and lower arms and crank away and it pops right out.

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Remember to leave the nuts on while doing this. I know of one guy who got a rude awakening when the lower arm/ spring came down.

 

Do they make one that's only about 2 1/2" tall? That was why I did the nut/bolt/socket deal.

 

Just curious do you have a background in tattoo machines?
If so ingénues way to adapt technology from another field.
Great job.

 

Possibly an attatchment from a Porto-Power?

 

Yep.... got a muffin jack for my 10 ton set in Princess Auto (Cdn. version of cheap HF stuff). It will get you into some tight spots, but the problem is that it only has 1/2" of lift, and often there's enough slack in what you want to move to make it hard to make any headway.