Ok so I have tried everything. On my wife's 60. New radiator. Pulled heads cleaned all passage. Checked block. Checked water pump checked timing. Checked plugs not running lean. Can not get it to stop running hot I'm at my wits end with this engine it runs great sounds great has power but sonofabitch runs hot. Pulled heads had em checked coolant is circulating when rad cap is pulled I'm about to say the hell with. And go with. A small block Chevy. And convert the damn thing Has any one else had problems like this
We all certainly feel your pain. Have you tried Block-Check to see if there are combustion gases in the coolant? Any Friends with diagnosis/ smog shop with a infrared analyzer to check for combustion gases in the coolant? If you were at my shop that's where I'd start.
Fix. It I have tried to fix it I dont give up easy but I am not gonna keep throwing money at it it has only 77000. Actual miles never been bored stock cam when heads were off. Not even a ridged on cylinder wall cam a lifter look like new. I know it is way cooler with the nailhead but parts are expensive. And I have a shit ton of SBC. Stuff. It just drives me crazy I had a buddy with a test kit and he says no gasses in coolant
Under what conditions does it get hot? Sitting still, highway speeds, both? Put your hand on the center of the radiator core to verify its hot....just because its new doesn't mean it's not clogged. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Maybe your water pump propeller went South and doesnt move enough water? ....maybe try to reverse flush radiator and block? Something must restrict water flow...I have a 61 lesabre with a 364 and a 65 Riviera with a 425. Never had an overheating issue...
I know you changed the rad. When engine is running hot, is the radiator approprately hot, too? Carefully place hand on different spots on core. Watch out for fan. Radiator should be full of hot coolant. Yes, no?
Has the radiator been flushed out? Is there a shroud with a fix bladed fan? Is the timing correct and the vacuum advance working? The cure for me was getting a direct fit, 4 row, triple pass radiator from U.S. Radiator.
Yup that is hot for that one. Did you check it with another gauge or is it puking coolant in the process?
Baumi is onto something here. Does the replacement pump have the same number of fins as the original pump that was pulled? I have seen reman pumps with fins that support cooling of different CID Buick engines. Also, check to see the propeller is flush as possible to the block when installed. If the impeller is far from the block wall it will have trouble moving the coolant. Sometimes the impeller is pushed to far on the shaft which moves it away from the block wall. If you have your original pump compare the new reman to the old.
Yep radiator is hot also I have made sure it is flowing I even filled the block with C. L. R up to the deck with heads off over night. Flushed block with heads off pulled freeze plugs to make sure it wasn't plugged up. I don't know impeller on water pump looks good I think it almost has to be something I have over looked. It will idle about 180 but anything higher than an idle it shoots up. Have checked coolant flow with cap off rad. Looks to be glowing good
How long does it take for the gauge to jump from 180 to 230 when it is above idle? Is it puking coolant? Have to checked it with another gauge to make sure yours is true? If it can idle all day, I would make sure to check that you do not have a vacuum leak off idle, and that your advance is working, and your timing is accurate through the curve.
You have a thermostat in it? If not the coolant maybe flowing too fast. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Good point. But, I run my 264 nailhead without a stat. I have no issues. Well, it is not quite warm from the heater in the winter.
Check your advance. If it idles fine but gets hot at speed its most likely timing Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
I would try putting a 180 thermostat in it and see if that helps. Flowing to fast is as bad as not fast enough. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Another thought. Maybe your lower radiator hose is collapsing and restricting flow at higher rpms. There "MUST" be something wrong in the circuit . I got mine to 220 once after sitting in traffic on a extremly hot day for 45 mins.
I went through this a few years ago with a Big block Chev and felt like I was just standing there and throwing 100.00 bills at the car. Nothing worked and I checked or replaced everything. Finally I said that this car is useless like this and changed the engine. Solved the problem but still do not know what was wrong Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Check list is order: 1. Timing/vac advance/hoses/carb settings everything is spot on. 2. Water pump is verified good-flowing. 3. Thermostat is working.
How much base timing at idle? Is vac advance manifold or ported vacuum? Try manifold vac if using ported.
The fan set up should more than cool it yep 180 t stat. Rad hoses have springs. In them not collapsing I'm gonna check couple things that were suggested. If nothing else she's coming out
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