Projects 1934 3 window HighBoy Build Begins

George, that I approve of this electronics bench racing.

 

Thanks. Josh was out on personal parental duty Monday so progress is a day behind. He did get started on the last area of the interior yesterday and sent
the attached picture. I am really looking forward to this part of the build wrapping up as the side pipes are next!

Parts chasing:
The lens retention springs shipped Monday and I'll post pictures of them after receipt next week .
The tail lights shipped as well. I have trouble posting more than one pic off the iPhone and will have to add on a separate post.

Regards,
George

 

Hurry up and get it done so we can see it finished before this gets locked.

 

It will be finished November-ish. I have to ask what you mean.." before this gets locked"?
regards,
George

 

There's gonna be a HAMB crackdown on anything not traditional. No S-10 frames, Z400LE transmissions, or LED taillights. Ryan may let it live because of the greatness of the remainder, but don't play up the LED's anymore.

 

Aw Geeze...OK! No More Off Topic Tail Lights .... I just didn't realize it was not ok to post. Thank you for the heads up.
regards,
George

 

Thursday update...
Josh was able to complete the last of the tough interior pieces today and sent me some great pictures. (see below) I am just thrilled to death with the outcome and it hits the nail right on the head for what was intended.
THANK YOU JOSH!

The only areas left to complete are the kick panels with speakers. One of my issues in life is that I am getting more and more hard of hearing. I asked Josh to use a flush mount speaker solution to enable me to change them out easily. Unfortunately , I turn them up and eventually blow them out. The coupe is going to be very loud with the side pipes and the need to be able to swap the speakers out easily is a forgone conclusion.

regards,
George

 

George,
What will be the final finish on those beautiful interior panels?

 

Not sure how to do this and would appreciate input on how to BEST seal the interior panels. IE: Start by using white Scotchbrite for a fine satin finish and then clear coat or passivate with SOMETHING???? I really want PLAIN as sometimes you can say more by doing less!
regards,
George

 

Just out of curiosity can you describe the process from prototype to finished exhaust headers? Did you map the angles as you went or did the bender have to sort the angles out? Also were you able to maintain a balanced tube length? One of the high end stainless steel pipe fabricators has what I always considered to be a lame prototyping tool. It never crossed my mind to use PVC pipe fittings.

I would compliment you on your craftsmanship but I lack the credentials so I'll leave it at: sure is pretty.

McGurk

 

McGurk,
While I wish I was so talented...the credit is all due to first Josh for making PVC models and then Chris and his team in Fargo ND. Mike was the talented builder that built my headers. The company name is Stainless Steel Headers. You can do it yourself if you are good with a tig. If you want to do yourself, they actually offer anything and everything you need PLUS advise and coaching. I got hooked after watching the 6 part "how to" series. They actually hand cut and weld individual segments. They do not read the proto's with any CAD or bend with CNC automated equipment. Each primary is painfully built one hand fitted section at a time. Here's a link to the video series.

www.stainlessheaders.com/headerfabrication

If you go back to my original posts you will see that Josh did a great job with making the patterns from PVC.
YOU CAN MEASURE AND GET THEM EVEN LENGTH IF YOU ARE PATIENT. That wasnm't a focus for us as much as filling up the area with a visually appealing "snake" wrap. STILL, They turned out pretty close. A "saws all" and PVC cement is all you need. The really neat thing is that it is fast and easy to cut and try...correct and retry without much effort. The real challenge is getting the second side as close to the first side without pulling your hair out!
While the company furnishes a "kit" , Josh found it easier to just make ALMOST all of it out of PVC elbows with a little straight pipe mixed in. You will need starting header flange to primary tube adaptors. I have posted the pics if you don't minding looking backwards. I would post again but am not on my PC where my files are. sorry. The only additional thing Josh did was to run a screw in each joint to make darn sure that nothing moved!

The finish was accomplished by first completing each primary tube WITHOUT welding to the header flange or the collector.( just enough tack weld to get them built before cutting them loose for a grind , sand and polish sequence) This allowed for the careful grinding of each joint before subsequent finer and finer sanding before finally being able to polish each tube. Once polished, each tube was then welded in its proper set up location by using a starting set up.

The video series will not take long for you to watch and is very informative. When all was said and done, we could not have been more satisfied with the process and the outcome.

Regards,
George

 

My suggestion regarding interior finish is that you'll need SOME sort of sound deadening on every panel in the car. If you're having trouble with hearing now this car will certainly speed up the hearing loss process. Even if you were to coat the back side with Lizard Skin or similar to retain the machined craftsman look it would be somewhat helpful.

If you've never ridden in a 10 second car with a sheet metal interior you're in for a rude awakening. This car is going to blow your ear drums out at an idle. Off idle you'll feel our brain vibrating in your skull.

Regarding speakers, buy GOOD component speakers and choose a GOOD amp that matches. By matching I don't mean color or brand, I mean RMS and peak wattages. Careful selection of stereo components will get you a LOT more clear volume and your speakers will last a lot longer: money well spent. The biggest reason speakers blow out is that the power source doesn't have enough amperage to hold the cone steady at higher volumes.



'27 T Roadster build: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=734383

 

I second that on Stainless Headers out of Fargo. I made my own but used their services for my merge collectors and stainless bends. Great work on what looks to be a really, really cool car. Subscribed.




Andy from STL

 

Daddio,
Josh spec'd out the best speakers we could find PLUS matched them with a verygood amp....wish me luck. We will definitely insulate and noise deaden all possible areas!

The noise from the all metal interior is a HUGE concern and the boys at Custom Auto understand we have to try everything to get her as quiet as possible.

Thank you for the feedback!
George

 

Here are more update pictures from Josh's effort on Friday. The panel with the access hatch is to get things hidden. SPECIFICALLY,.. Heater hoses and wiring.
Josh had made a great effort to keep things as clean as possible.

The knob below the speaker is for the "safety dead bolt". The last we need is for one of the doors to pop open and wrap around to the quarter panel. YIKES!!

Looking good Josh!

Thank you!
George

 

Another small milestone that took a long time to accomplish...
Please see the attached pictures of the 1937-38 Chrysler/Desoto Tail Light Lens retention springs that I had re-manufactured from an original sample part instead of having to glue the lenses in.

You might remember that the original ones were rusty and would break when I was trying to reinstall them.

I am very happy with the outcome and have put one lens together in the picture to show where they go.

Regards,
George

 

Great news from Josh in Loveland! The Interior Panels are 100% complete. It took a little extra time on the panel with the gas pedal as Josh had to run the pedal linkage and get it worked out with the Fuel Injection throttle shafts. This had to be completed to enable the location of the hole through the firewall.

I sent a note to Josh that said..."MAY I HAVE AN AMEN?" I can not began to express how exhilarating it is for me to see this progress.
THANK YOU JOSH!

Regards,
George

 

The little things are coming together. I have been chasing to bring closure to many items and have already reported on the side pipes and lens retention springs. The folks at Quality Plating in Yuma Co are shipping my repaired and replated tail light bezels this morning. I sent them them one set of 1937/8 Chryslers as well as one set of the same vintage Desoto bezels. I'm not sure which ones will eventually be used???

The last two items on the list are my "volt" gauge that arrived as an amp gauge. It has been a couple of weeks since it was returned for unfortunate rework....and my Kinmont brakes from Johnsons Hot Rod shop.

Once the gauge is received, I will be out of work on behalf of the effort. Josh is about in the same place. He has to build the sidepipes and it is the last thing before tear down and across the parking lot to PAINT.

We still have to have color sample panels shot to ensure we are happy with the Desoto "Everglades Red".
The coupe is not far from completion as compared to looking backwards.

Regards,
George

 

Here are a few pics to show the throttle cable runs the full length of the intake (first picture) before making a 90 degree turn, then clamped before attaching to the throttle shaft on the opposite bank (second picture) via a throttle arm with ball.

Although a little harder to see, the third picture is a clamped "TV" cable that is actuated by a lever that is pulled when the throttle cable is pulled.

The trick will be to adjust and get a good ratio. I don't remember off hand, but believe it is over 2.1 to 1.?????? The key will be to get it adjusted correctly in order to have the tranny perform properly and not burn itself up!

Here is a good source for information:

http://www.tvmadeez.com/article/index.html

Regards,
George

 

I drove up to LoveLand this morning and would like to share the sliding tag bracket. It is NOT fancy or motorized. It is simply a pull down and push up way of putting away the tag to keep the lines clean.
Regards,
George

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bhAZCjytofU&feature=em-upload_owner#action=share

 

Here are a few more pictures from my visit to Custom Auto this morning. I took a lens assembly up and hung it on for a look see. There is a little background story on the housings and lenses. Sometime back in January I was hanging out in the Custom Auto shop and noticed an attractive lens and bezel that was laying on a shelf top. It belonged to another client that had bought them for a future project. I asked Rex to see if the fellow would sell them? A few days later , I received word back that these were hard to find and that he wanted to hang on to them. Fair enough...
It didn't take long for me to research and ascertain that it was a 1937-38 Chrysler lens and bezel. Hmmmm....I would also need the buckets. This might be more trouble than it's worth??? I eventually found the buckets and then set about chasing down the lenses and bezels. Turns out that they are not readily available, but can be found if you are willing to do the leg work. I learned that the 1937-38 ART DECO Desoto bezels are a swap out and use the same lens.
A long story short , I now have quite a complete collection of both after 6 months. This is even after unfortunately dropping an NOS lens in the kitchen while opening it up and destroying another one while missing the shop table with it. Geeze. Just clumsy and unfortunate. I have already posted about the lens retention springs and have now been able to put this part of the build to bed.


One of the last fabrication items for the build is to complete the side pipes. Please find the view of the side pipe parts laying ready for a Monday morning start.
Regards,
George

Regards,
George

 

I noticed the video link wasn't opening up to youtube so I am trying it again...I apologize if you already viewed the enclosed "now you see it,...now you don't" of my tag bracket.
Regards,
George

 

It took a big effort for Josh to shrink the collector to allow the side pipe to just fit/slide over it for a good seal. The turn out is a trial and error effort from Josh and is much better than a straight cut.
Please take the time to look at all the pictures closely as there are 2 curves that had to match to get this right. 1.The arc of the lower body ... check! and 2. The arc from front to back with the curve into the quarter panel...double check!!

This has been a major focus to get right. From figuring out the 340 plus foot radius using snow board detail from Dustin to managing the collector size and output direction to achieve not only the fit displayed below, but to get the scale right.

Thank you Guys!

Regards,
George

 

Amazing details!

Regarding your YouTube video, I noticed the same when I posted from my iPad on my own thread. I couldn't see it but others could. I could see your video just fine a few minutes after you posted it the first time.



'27 T Roadster build: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=734383

 

Suicide entry on a chopped 34. Good luck keeping the legs burn free. Everything else pretty damn cool.

 

AWESOME job. I really like a man that strives for perfection and HITS it.

 

Thank you kind sir. I did look up how to just insert the youtube number with the film can, Well duh! such an easy application.
Somebody did a great job with the code.
Thank you HAMB

 

Pete,
You are so right!....
I think I am going to have to issue my wife a flip out piece of asbestos. She says NOT as she isn't going to ride in it. LOL

 

Loud Bang ,
I will pass along your kind comments to Josh.
Much appreciated,
George

 

Here is a set of 1937/38 Desoto Bezels that I had re chromed before installing a pair of good used lenses with my new springs.
I really like these Desoto's as they are a little more Art Deco than the Chrysler's.
Regards,
George