Nostalgia dragster, thoughts ?

Had this opportunity present itself and wanted your thoughts. all I know is what I've been told by the owner, a sixties era car. he doesn't know any details , says it is steel and that it has a olds rear end and that's it. The price is 2500. Almost don't care for that much money but I have wanted to try my luck racing not cackling. The kid said his Nhra inspector said it would cert 9.50 as is and the typical updates for the other times. What do you think? Pros and cons thanks

 

it's worth that just to sit and look at it

 

If I were you, I would buy it just to put your screen name on it.....DO IT!!!!

 

If the wall thicknesses are correct it doesn't look like a chassis guy would have to add much to get the car to cert quicker. Where the body panel is would probably be the limiting factor if its only 9.50 in the 1/4 or what's there is way too thin.

Build a warmed over small block with hilborns and you would probably be set for at least a couple of months

 

Needs to look like this and have correct tubing diameters and wall thickness just to run 10.00 or slower.

 

First up, it will not cert for anything without helmet bars and some additional uprights in the seat area even if the tubing meets the spec. I would rather see you change it back to a period correct 3 point roll bar and make a cackle car out of it because if is is an original frame from back in the day there is no way that it will cert without extensive (and expensive) changes.
Right now the only part that looks to be non original is the cage and that is the easiest thing to change to restore it to the old configuration.

Roo

 

wish i was closer, if you were not interested i would give you a $500 finders fee just to make the deal... that is exactly what i am looking for..damn

 

First of all dont believe anything a seller has to say,the only thing you have to go on is if there was a chassie spec sticker on it already, just out of date. If you are really interested leave a deposite contingent on those truths the seller said and have a real NHRA chassie tech look at it. If the tech will sign it off at 9.50 you are good. If the tech says it will cert by adding a couple of tubes and not critical tube replacment, $2500 is a smokin deal.If the chassis critical tubes will not cert then you have to decide the outcome. Anyway its going to cost you $75 to have NHRA "TELL YOU" what you need to know.

You say it has a OLDs rear end but you do not know what year? Early '49 Olds were commom in those years, but since its been 60 years since, parts and gears are very hard to find, It may have cut down stock axles and spools were never built for these.Tracks are different now then back in the '60s and that is not a good rearend to use. Plan on (if you are going to race it)installing a Mopar 8 3/4, Cheap and available, large parts and gear inventory, Dont put a Ford 9" in it , too big and expensive and the Mopar will hold up to quite well 7.00 passes and its the same physical size as the early Olds.

 

Pinchecharlie

Excluding the 5 point cage from the back side it sures looks like one of Roy Fjastad's SPE chassis. If it is then it would not have had an Oldsmobile axle housing. That's not to say that the axle housing might have been changed. If the chassis is straight and it has not been cobbled up then $2500.00 would be a good buy.

McGurk

 

The HOWARDS CAM RATTLER was an SPE car out of Roys and it came with an early OLDS RE. I helped with the resto and Nobody ever change out a Mopar to put an OLDs in

 

for 2500 I would at least hang it from the rafters in my shop ,drink beer,and stare at it!

 

Best answer.
Most likely donor for the rear, '57-'64 Olds/Pontiac. Parts are still available.

 

Those are really big and heavy also,Those later ones where used in heavier gassers and altereds. The MOPAR is the same size as the early Olds

 

Found out it has a nine inch with u joint? It is 184 inches long and he said it needed the bars in the cage that most have mentioned. what are the critical tubes and what are the wall thicknesses and how other than drilling holes would you find out? I know it seems a bit foolish but it's hard to resist need more info I guess . Thanks for all your responses ill keep you posted.

 

If I was closer I would buy it in a heart beat. I just started running my old K-88 Fenn car lsat year after setting for over 25 years, new tires all around, and some other freshing up. Lots of tracks letting them run if you like 1/8 mile runs, mine not fast in the 1/8 but it's fun, SBC, 4 bbl carb, 350/350 combo.

 

Well I stand corrected. All of the SPE chassis that I have seen had 8 3/4" rear axle housings.

McGurk

 

Just my opinion. Buy the roller and take the wheels,9 inch, steering, front axle and whatever else you can use. Then build a new chassis with new tubing using the old one as a template.

 

I consider the "critical" bars as the Shoulder hoop and the lower frame rail. If those bars do not meet spec and have to change out you a much better off building a new chassie. Wall thickness for all specs and diameter is .058 minimum. Slower classes can have a 1 3/8 shoulder hoop, some can spit 1 1/2-1 3/8, and some are 1 1/2 all the way to the motor plate. Only time one would find .065 is when the cage exceeds 18" in hight. A chassie tech will use a sonic meter calibrated to CM and do a non destructive test on all tubing useing a spec guide sheet for requires tubing OD's

 

You say none of the 60s era cars will re certify? Is it because they all used a different wall thickness than are required now? Or because of the engineering? Still want one of yours just a sucker for this stuff!

 

Thanks Dreracecar I know you know these cars inside and out. Just called our division chassis inspector he asked for details I didn't have but was willing to look at pictures and help point me in a direction I guess. So just because iam a dumb ass can guys still run the old cars as exhibition cars? I hear guys say that certain tracks let them and blah blah. What's the skinny?

 

Not a bad idea actually! And fun err except my skill level! Shit I could always have the slowest dragster ever made! Actually the more I think about it yeah I could make sure it was all straight and what not and build a jig around the frame and start fresh knowing where it all was ment to be! Bobs your uncle thanks man!

 

That's awesome glad your having fun. If it goes south ill buy it for ya and drive it out ther always good to make new friends

 

Some old cars will/can cert, but since they all have to be sonic tested and the tube diameter checked, the only way to be sure is to get a pre-test to find out what you really have. Some things can be determind over the phone with pics -tube placement, missing tubes, tube diameters and such as all those are visual and even I can do that, but wall thickness must be done by destuctive(drilling hole) or non-destructive (sonic) which I cant do at this time because the test meters are 700-1000 $$$$ and I like to eat now and then.
Visualy I see a need for lateral head bars, kidney bar uprites, without seeing it might also need a tube going from side to side attached to the upper frame rail which can be used to attach the steering box to. You cannot have just 1/2 tube to the steering box and a support for the shaft comming out the box. Also you will have to replace the yoke on the 9" to a coupler.

I have an old car '67-68 and the entire frame was built with .035 except for the cage @ .065.

 

One must check with the track with that since any insurance is in there name. Old historical cars are sometimes allowed to make exibishion runs. those cars get a special permit and are qualifyed as to what they are allowed to do, wether just a burnout, or up to a launch and only out to 300ft before they are required to shut off. I have yet to see a Vintage old car be allowed to make a full pull. Some cars are completely re-made with all new tubing and parts and still have restictions. Not saying that some schmo cant take his car to Bat-Liver Drag-O-Way and make a pass while the track owner is in the can and get away with it. Outrite exhibistion runs in old cars just does not happen very often.

 

If you plan on racing get new pipe. There's too many factors to risk your life on an unknown 40 year old car.

 

amen!

 

here's a couple shots of my old heap, just finished a light restoration on it, runs 10.05 134mph was build in 64' uses an olds 8 3/4 with "ansen" locks
mild 350 running only on the primary (secondary's wired closed) it's got a radiator and battery, I've made 2 back 2 back runs without shutting it off. (1/8 mile track)

 

Well done! Beautiful sight!

 

Which is very true, but the appeal to most people is that their budget will only support a $2500 roller vs. a $6000 bare frame only.

Old cars can be safe,one just has to check to make sure and just not rely on the sellers word unless it has been tagged before. Slip the tech another $20 and have him go all over the frame with sonic (bottom of the rails where rust happens)testing just to make sure.

 

Is there even a cert for 9.50?