F100 conversion to '37-'41 spindles. It's been awhile since I pulled the crusty '56 brakes apart. I've got the Speedway conversion kit. Looking at the back of the hub. In what order do the parts go in? Is it seal, cup, bearing or cup, bearing, seal? Also, which way does the seal go in? Does the solid side go in first or the two piece side? Please pardon my ignorance!
Seal goes in the way you have in the pic. I put a little lube on the cup and seal so it presses in easier.
Little confused on the seal installation. This side goes into the hub first [/URL] or, this side......................... [/URL]
Seal goes in as is shown in the second picture; The first picture you show indicates the seal to be upside down, the lip would go towards the bearing.
They go in order from bottom to top in post 1 the bottom two (race and bearing) you have facing the correct way, the seal is upside down.
Bearing race (cup), Bearing, Seal (two piece side in first). Use large socket or Bearing Race installer to install race in rotor squarely all the way, rub bearing grease on race, then pack bearing as much as you can (excess is okay), then seal (use large socket or correct size thick wall pipe to install squarely in rotor. Where is the Bearings slotted washer, nut and cotter pin ? The lower picture shows the correct side to be installed first because the design of the "45 degree inner area" of the rubber part of the "seal" allows it to set itself correctly against the shaft so that the wide part of the rubber keeps grease in and garbage (water, etc.) out.
Actualy, if you have never done this before, get a buddy that has and watch him. Once you see how it's done you'll know for next time. It's critical they are done right. No margin for error here.
You will hear the tone of the hammer blow on the driver change when the race is fully seated in the hub. If you haven't packed wheel bearings before ask someone how to do it correctly as dabbing grease on the outside of the rollers doesn't do a lot of good.
You do know that you have to grind a larger radius on the bearing right? Do the grinding BEFORE you pack the bearing. Actually use tape on the roller area to keep grit out of the bearing. Grind enough so the bearing seats all the way to spindle shoulder.
That bearing looks like it might be done already,slide the bearing on the spindle and see if it slides all the way on.
I'm still trying to understand why you want to install 37-41 spindles on a '56 F100. ??????????????????
Some bearings [cones] come with a small radius on the bore/face that shoulders against the spindle seal diameter, not letting it seat by hanging up on the spindle fillet radius, thus the grinding to clear the radius on the spindle...That said, I have never had to grind on the bearing as they all came with enough radius over the past 30 years..
I've done this before (30 years ago) with no problem - now doing another set I put the seal in flush -- and it contacted the inner part of the bearing, preventing that part from turning. Didn't seem right ... but on second thought the inner part seats against the spindle shoulder and doesn't turn anyway -- is that right? It is the hub, race and rollers that turn.... 30 years is a long time to remember something... Straighten me out here, fellas.
not sure what you are asking Fenders but I will try and help you out. You have your hub then you put the race in first making sure it is facing out so that the bearing will fit inside of it. After you have the race in grease up that bearing real good then put it in so it slides down inside the race. Then you put the seal on with a large socket that will fit on the shoulder of the seal and hammer it on lightly. Hope that helps....
Right, Pug -- but the seal (as shown in the OP first post) contacts the inner part of the bearing, not permitting it to turn (and putting pressure on it as well)... I see you said lightly... my question is whether it matters that the seal contacts the bearing. This conversion seal is a full thickness seal -- I note that on the original F100 seal is "hollow" on the back, where it meets the bearing race so it cannot contact the bearing; I'd like to use that type of seal for the older spindle, if there is such a seal. (see photos)
You wont want the seal to contact the bearing it wont let it expan out when it goes on the spindle. And you are correct that the inner race does not turn.
What I thought.... thanks. The stock F-100 "hollow" seal allows the bearing to float in the race until the bearing is held in place by contact with the spindle upon installation. Unfortunately the ID of the stock seal is too large (1.75") for the old spindles (1.5").
You need to see if there is room for the seal on the spindle if the seal is not installed all the way.
UPDATE: OK I don't want the "solid" type of seal that comes with the Speedway set (this seal is marked A34032 but I could no reference to that). When pressed in flush to the hub it pressed against the bearing, pushing the rollers into the race. I know it won't do this in every installation, but it shouldn't do it at all. Looking at the original 1953 - 55 F-100 front seal, it is is the "hollow" type -- when driven in flush to the hub the edges will (may) contact the race, but nothing contacts the bearing. You can reach in and wobble the bearing. So I wanted a seal like that, but with a smaller shaft dimension (want 1.563 inches). Looking for this seal dimension in the Timken seal manual on page 38 http://www.timken.com/en-us/products/Documents/Seal-Specification-Guide.pdf lists seal #473441 as having the correct dimensions to fit the 1955 F100 hub bore (2.756" a press fit into the F-100 2.75" bore). Also this seal is Timken style 470, which is the "hollow" style (with a spring wrap - nice). I ordered a couple, and they work perfectly. (National/Timken #450461 recommended in some articles also looks like it could contact the bearing, it is Timken style 450) In the photo below, left to right, are a stock 1955 F-100 seal, the Speedway seal, and the Timken #473441 seal that I ended up using.
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