Didn't fire her up last weekend. not in a big hurry anyway. So I,m going to rebuild my door hinges while waiting for some other parts to ship. Got some allen head screws for the hinges and picking up hinge pins and bushings on Friday. I just got to mention this, I picked up this today to up grade from my smaller one. It's old and american made, just getting broken in, haha What a great find $25.00, I just love the size of the anvil.
I,m in the process of rebuilding door hinges and when removing noticed that someone used bolts and nuts to secure hinges as a few of the factory nuts are missing. Is there a fix for this instead of using nuts and bolts? Thanks
Something looked hokey on drivers side rocker panel, so I took a deeper look. It seems it grew Bondo stalactites and blue worms. I probably should train my dog to sniff out Bondo.
That's ugly! At least you caught it and can fix it properly. My shoebox had the same bondo worms on the rockers
Believe me,you are lucky because you found bondo worms on the rockers.I found those same fellows above the drip rail...
Upon vacuuming out said rocker panel, It sounded like I sucked up a golf ball, only to find this little module jammed back toward the rear. I saw weld marks where someone tried to cover the hole with it. (what a dick!) So will add a new rocker, along with other front drivers side floor pan to the list. Though I think I going to put her away for a little while.
Removed radiator today for rod out and repair. Removed some paint to find that nice cooper finish underneath, that's going to look nice when finished. Inscribed on the top tank was the RO# and the date 9-11-56 when it was repaired. Creepy moment when I first saw that. I did notice a 16lb radiator cap and was thinking that seems to much. So I was curious what you guys are running on your stock flatheads. Someone told me 6cyl uses 4lb. and 8 cyl uses 7lb. or is the 16lb correct?
I'm no expert, but I think 4 lbs is about right. Each pound of radiator cap (and subsequently cooling system) PSI increases the boiling point. '27 T Roadster build: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=734383
Got out the green bible, Note: Cooling system is pressured to 3 1/2 - 4 1/2 pounds on all 6-cylinders and 8-cylinder cars without Fordomatic transmission. 6 1/2 - 7 1/2 pounds is used in 8 cylinder cars equipped with Fordomatic transmission. 16lb cap just seemed a little much.
So when I picked up my radiator today the owner of the shop said run a 4 or 7lb cap. I just read an article in hot rod stating that newer style flat head water pumps, because of bigger pump shafts can use 16lb caps.
That makes no sense to me at all.... '27 T Roadster build: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=734383
Just run the 7lb cap. If you go higher than that on a factory radiator they tend to split around the neck.
Hi Antti, I'm trying to do to many things at once and need to slow down lol. Rebuilt door hinges, repaired drivers side rocker panel. The floor pan I ordered got lost in transit. New one should be here next week. I want to get all the welding out of the way before I fill it with fuel. Ya know what I mean. So right now I'm going through cooling system until floor shows up. I'm hope to fire her up in a couple of weeks, need to hear the sound of an uncorked flathead again. I will post some pics of progress next week.
Well got this today, looks like its been around the world a few times. I figured some adjusting to make it work.
Tore my meniscus on my right knee awhile back and finally going to resume on my shoebox. Bare with me please, I did mention this on shoebox club blog, but still a little confused. I want to run two water temp gauges and seems pretty straight forward. I see what looks like (1) temp sending unit and (1) what looks like a switch. Not really sure if one of these get eliminated or what? Can someone clarify, still a little confused. Thank you in advance. PASSENGER SIDE DRIVERS SIDE
I beleive the driver's side is a "loop" where it can pass through (in series) to the passenger side. Whichever side is hotter drives the needle up. This doesn't solve your dilemma of running seperate temp gauges as you'll need a new sender for the driver's side, and they're inexpensive enough you should really just buy two. Hope that helps. By the way, this wasn't a factory wiring schematic. Factory wiring only measured the passenger side head. My '27 T Roadster build: www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t= 734383
Then if I got correctly I need two of these. One of each wired to each gauge.Thank you. I'm just weak at electrical.
Nope, you need NONE of that one and two of the single pole type. The type pictured is a pass through, and since you're running individual gauges you want each sender dedicated to its own gauge. I'd post pics of mine, but they're mechanical not electric. Let me know if you think it'd still help. My '27 T Roadster build: www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t= 734383
And I SINCERELY apologize, I mixed up where each sender was and gave you opposite information. Really embarrassed... My '27 T Roadster build: www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t= 734383
No worries, I really appreciate the help. If it's no trouble pic's of your set up would be helpful at your convenience of course. Maybe mechanical is the way to go. Thank you very much.
Hey Eric I'm going with mechanical set up. I got it figured out, pretty basic. So don't hassle with pic's, but do appreciate your help.
I found this universal electric in line fuel pump installed on my rig. It already has a working mechanical one on it. It had a fuel cell installed in trunk before with a rubber hose and this pump inline. I replaced it with a mustang tank and in the process of running a new copper line. Is there a reason to run 2 different style pumps?
Any idea if the electric one works? Stock ones are notoriously problematic, and an electric pump is often added to "assist" the mechanical pump. My '27 T Roadster build: www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t= 734383
Yes, it works and like you said it was probably added for assist. I have a new mechanical pump installed already. Just didn't want to run another electrical component if not needed.
Personally, I'd throw it back on. No harm, and if your mechanical pump has problems or if you vapor lock you won't be stuck on the side of the road. My '27 T Roadster build: www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t= 734383
When I got my shoebox it had both on it with the stock tank and a working mechanical fuel pump. I use to use it as a priming pump before I put in a higher volume fuel pump. I didn't bother unhooking it but don't use it very often. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
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