Pre prepping frame for paint issues

Looking at your pics it still looks like you sprayed to dry I know you said the pics were after you scuffed it up but the bolt and nut look like no primer on them. I think that when you do it again you need to put product on. JMO.

 

And on a frame I would shot all the product on in the window of time so you do not have to sand between coats because on a frame you will not get in all the tight spots like around the nut and bolts in your pic.

 

Yes thats right.

 

I think its because I scuffed it up too much

 

I would spray another coat of hardened primer and see what happens. If the primer you have on now is not fully dried some of the new primer will probably sink into the old stuff and if it doesn't wrinkle will add some degree of hardener to the existing paint.

 

Man, my eyes are bleeding from reading all the advice. I just blasted, prepped and painted the cab on my '55 Cameo. Before I started I asked a friend who has been building hotrods for 63 years for advice. It was simple and I followed it and everything turned out fine.
After sandblasting, I wiped down the metal with Metalprep 79. Mix it 2:1 with water, wipe down the metal and rinse with clear water. Prime the metal with NASON chrome free etch primer (1 qt). I applied it with a HF HVLP gun w/1.4 tip (paid $45 for the 2 gun set) All the material, including laquer thinner to clean the gun came to $65.00. Good Luck

 

Wow that sounds like it was very simple

 

Your fingers must be bleeding

 

Drag it down to Tijuana saturday morning, by 5pm it will all be over!

 

Im just contemplating on what I should do at this point and what I want to spend.

 

There you go now that's stepin up.

 

After letting it dry for a bit longer I scuffed up the frame and shot a section of gloss black rustoleum rattle can.

 

Talk to a auto body shop supplier. Mixing brands/products usually doesn't work. Sandblast and follow instructions from body shop supplier, EXACTLY! Cut your loses and start over. It's not what you want to hear, but it will save you grief down the road.

 

The black I think looks pretty damn good and seems to be drying very well.

 

FWIW, I painted a '56 Ford frame with Rustoleum after blasting it, and later took it in for chemical stripping (failed to get all the rust the first time...). The stripper complained about how hard the paint was to remove; he had to dip it three times and use a pressure washer between before it came off. Said he'd never had paint that hard to get off....

Used a cheap gun to shoot the paint, put red oxide primer on first, then gloss black. This it just enough so it comes out of the gun. You won't get a 'show shine', but the stuff is nearly bulletproof once it dries (which takes a loooong time). The thing with Rustoleum is DO NOT mix brands with your thinners, etc, only use their recommended products.

 

This is good to hear! To bad I didnt use the right thinner. Only pkus is that it seems to have been drying very well and the gloss is sticking and drying just as well.

 

Hell, we run outta time with our truck, we're painting the body with rust oleum pro rattle can.

I hope it's not too much of a PITA to take off when we want to shoot "real" paint on there.

 

Well I have waited a bit longer and the frame seems perfectly fine, just that one spot in the pic that still is an issue. So I am going to het some rattle can rustoleum primer and sand down that area and spray that.

Before I spray the top gloss coat what should I use or buy to remove all dust and everything off of the primer since I scuffed the whole frame?

 

If you are going to do the rattle can thing get some of those fancy handles you put on the can you will painting like a pro in no time.

 

Anyone? I am going to try and get the sanding and primer done today.

 

Read the can an be mindful of the recoat times and window. Don't start too late or you'll see the sun rise or be waiting and sanding more.

Blow it off, and when you think you've blown it the best that you can - blow it some more. Wipe it down with a wax and grease remover type product approved by the product manufacture. Wipe it with a tack cloth.

Paint it.

 

Thank you!!

 

This wont help you at this stage, but maybe someone else.

I have been using Dupont Chassis paint. Comes in a gallon can, and doesnt need thinning. Its just right to spray right out of the can.
On my 39 after sandblasting, I wiped it down with a Dupont acid etch wipe, then sprayed with Dupont etching primer, Then I Believe shot the chassis black paint.
I really dont remember using the Dupont 3 part urethane primer on the frame? But maybe I did. Getting old I guess.

This thread has helped me. I was planning to use Rustolium for inner fenders. I saw it on a car, and it looked good with just the right sheen. But now, I dont want to chance it.

 

Krylon sprays very nice aswell but probably shouldnt use krylon paint with rustoleum primer right?