Throttle cable help/suggestions

I am looking for some help with my throttle cable for my 1927 T lakes modified.
I have used the pedal from a 39 with the 1/4" ball on the end. On the holly carb I have a 1/4" ball also. The cable itself will be quite short....ie about 12".
Does anyone know of anybody that makes to order?

 

Here are some pictures of what I am dealing with.
The first shows the carb end on the left and the pilot hole by my thumb.
The third shows the inside of the firewall and the pedal end (right hand drive).

 

Try some motorcycle/small engine shops.

It's not that hard to shorten one, cut the end off and drill it out cleanly.
Soft solder is adequate to fit the cable back into the end fitting after shortening the outer and inner cables

another alternative to soldering is drill a hole in a 1/4" bolt, thread the inner through it and lock it into place with a (nyloc) nut on the bolt

 

Thanks for that.
Anyone else?

 

Check out Custom Control Cables'
Jim

 

The ball stud on both ends makes it difficult.
You need the plastic doohickey that the cable slides thru, then a stop on the end of the cable.
It's very doable with a few donor cables to make this out of.

I would change the carb end to a universal end .

There's a few mail order places that specialize in go kart and mini bike parts. They have all the bits needed to make a throttle cable.

There's a few universal throttle cables available to. Lots of bits in the package to make it work.

There's also a few places that can make you a custom cable, they specialize in vintage motorcycles and custom motorcycles. Example, your motorcycle has chromed Harley style handle bars and the engine is Asian. You need Asian ends on one end , Harley on the other and they need to be 10" longer. They make it.

 

There are some cruise control cables that have a threaded end. Use a ball end from speedway. OR go mechancial with a bellcrank setup on the firewall. OR extend the shaft under the dash to the left side and run a cable from there. Cut and weld (not solder) a factory cable end in place of your ball end and use a factory cable. (easiest)

 

My t had a shortened Lokar cable. Ball end on the carb and a yolk with a pin on the pedal.

Worked fine but looked like a street rodder.

I replaced the cable with a 1/4" rod, threaded to accept the yoke and ball ends. Looks a lot better.

You could do a bellcrank (like a mini Z-bar) on the firewall or behind the firewall to get over to the other side of the engine and work with completly solid rods. Kinda like the old Fords did to get to the pass. side of the engine from the driver's side.

 

Thanks for that mate! Perfect!

I am off out to the workshop now to start measuring up.

Looks like they will have everything for my kickdown cable too.

 

After a cable shredded inside the tube and locked my T in WOT, I made a mechanical linkage. Works great and fewer moving parts means less chance for trouble.