Has anyone ever panted a car with Rustoleum Paint? Will I have and I used a foam roller. Here is a photo of my 66 Impala.
I'm going to do my phaeton in it. It's more to do with keeping spray dust and fumes out of my neighbours' yards and houses than cost, though!
Yikes, I'd advise against it. It's not a real great paint as it never really hardens. Always stays sort of sticky. I had a friend who did an RX-7 in it. It wasn't excellent. But it's led him into painting and he's actually damn good now (with urethane, that is)! I'd say lacquer would actually be a better way to go. Or figure out how to roll on urethane! haha
Anybody ever used Valspar enamel? I bought some at tractor supply a while back and its thick enough to roll on and they sell hardener to use with it. Plan on using it on a frame.
This idea has been around for a while, you can get good results if you wet sand between coats, buff and wax when it's done. Others report better results using boat enamel or auto enamel.
its obvious that you did it wrong. Thousands of us have done it with no problem theyellowtruck by farmgate, on Flickr
If a little shine and all 1 color is what you want, well rock on kids. It'll never be a professional finish, never be close in show competition, never hold up like OEM finish material will. I'll save you the trouble of bashing my reply, yes I know not everyone competes in shows. I know not everyone can afford to create a surface and coat it in a craftsman like manner, and that they don't even want that to begin with. And last but not least, try to touch it up. heh-heh-heh... I also expect the gratuitous "...mine get touched up all the time..." comments. Flame away, but I wouldn't have it on a bet.
Are there any tricks to putting it on with a foam roller so that it does not run on vertical surfaces? Just wondering Jimbo
It all boils down to the almighty dollar! I have found the easiest, cheapest and quickest way to get a shine on a car is to wet it down with a garden hose. it shines real good but doesn't last very long. A better way is to rub it down with molasses, it gives it a good deep brown luster but watch out for the cows licking it off. Better still use honey, no cows,because the bears chase them off. House paint will last for 20 years and there is a self cleaning type available Tar will give a nice black coating that will hide many sins, but I don't recommend it if you have chickens. Porch and deck paint would be the best bet yet, very durable. Now back to the money part, Limco, Sherman Williams, Du Pont, Glasco, PPG,Epoxy's, Polyurethanes all have price tags that all tell you a lot about themselves. Its all about what you want to spend.
I use similar product, usually Van Sickle enamels with hardener on motors and chassis parts etc... with good success. I'm sure if applied to a well prepped surface it could be decent as long as its catalyzed with the proper hardener.
Make sure to keep it waxed to give it protection from UV rays, which will break it down quickly otherwise, and it'll start chalked up. Wax it and it'll love you long time....
I bought a car painted with it and it sucks in my book. It's flat and I never tried waxing it for the UV. The flat lets everything stick to it and it chalked up within a year - But it looked real good for the first six months. Maybe the shinny stuff lasts longer? I'd wish mine had just been primer, then I wouldn't have to strip it to get a real paint job. If you're gonna keep the car do what ever suits you and your budget, but I'm not a fan of the Rustoleum.
I used Valspar with the hardener on the boom of my backhoe and the bed of my dump trailer. Holds up surprisingly well but fades really quickly.
i painted this with rustoleum, but i only did it because it will never be more than a shop/work truck. it had 1000lbs of steel in it last weekend. it has lots of rust and has been packed with bondo by all of the p.o.. the rustoleum has done what it needed to do, make it all one color. most people are shocked when i tell them i painted it with a brush and roller. mine has been on their for about 4 yrs and is starting to chalk really bad. so it will get rolled another color before winter hits. im sure if you spent the time on prep and take care off it after it should look good but dont expect a show car finish. and dont forget to add hardener to it, it makes all of the difference in the world on oil base paint.
I have used it on my old Willys Jeep, the price was right for a vehicle that saw regular trips off road and would come back with "West Coast pinstriping" . I sprayed it, rolled and even used a brush. For the purpose it worked well. Would I use it for my `64 Riv? No.
just like any other kind of paint job---good stories and bad---i am going to use it on my gasser because i am tired of primer and can't afford a spray job
I use it on all my chassis for painting. Never considered using it on a body though, and probably never will.
There's a whole forum on it. People there are pleased with the results. You can buy it by the gallon at Home Depot.
This post made my day. It's freakin' hilarious. Honestly, I don't know what drives the love affair with Rustoleum on this site. Every week, there's always a couple of Rustoleum threads that pop up. Yeah, it's cheap and readily available, but it's for painting mailboxes and swingsets. It's like dating a chick who's a "4" on the beauty scale but she's a sex maniac. She's great at first, but after a short while, she gets on your nerves and you're ready to pay a hit man to make her disappear. Good luck on sanding off the 2yr old Rustoleum when it gets so chalky it looks like you drove through a flour silo. It will gum up so much sandpaper that you'll spend more on paper than you did on the paint. All kidding aside. Spend a little more and buy an automotive paint. Some of the major paint companies have a lower line that's pretty cheap and performs pretty well and will last a lot longer than Rustoleum. For an occasional frame or a rear end housing on a non-show vehicle, Rustoleum will be OK. On the outside of a car? NO. On the outside of a car using a roller? HELL NO.
You would have to be a glutton for punishment to use Rustoleum as a top coat on a good car. You have no control over it. That's why people spend so much time trying to make it look good. I don't buy the line it's because of the fumes. Rustoleum stinks longer than urethane paint. I can believe that some people in California use it because of all the laws. You can buy a cheap urethane and a $9.99 HF gravity feed gun and still paint a car for less than $100. Where I live the new cheap way to paint a car is with water based Sun Coatings paint. It cost about $40.00 a gallon and you thin the paint with distilled water from the super market. It's probably does not last long either, it looks good when they first do it. They sell it in gloss colors plus the primer colors... If I am going to spend any amount of time on a paint job, it's only getting urethane.
You have more control using rattle can Rustoleum than you would loading up a spray gun with the quarts or gallons they sell at the box stores. It gets runs and sags in it like crazy. It never really hardens so trying to fix it is even more work. You need stock in a sand paper factory. Where I live they were selling gallons off hot rod black urethane for $50 a gallon and the hardner was $30.00 they discontinued the paint. They had a bunch of boxes, it sold quick. People from Mexico were buying the paint 8 gallons at a time.
I just painted a steel hulled boat with marine paint. Boat was to big to go into a spray booth. Epoxy primer and urethane paint all bought from a marine supply, Marine paint is designed to be applied with a foam roller. Went on super smooth and was still cheaper than automotive paint. Going to epoxy prime my 33 chev with it in my garage with the other cars still parked nearby, zero overspray
You can prime and paint a car outside with one of those $9.99 HF paint guns no problem. They are so cheap that buying a brand new one when it comes time for the top coat is a no brainer. Epoxy primer goes on before any body filler or paint, it is starting to get hard to buy in some areas. Urethane paint drys so quick that in a few hours you don't notice any smell. The one thing they sell at the box stores that works good is Kleen Strip prep and etch. It's phosphoric acid. I pour it in a jar and use a paint brush to apply it. It will eat the surface rust right off a car. I have put it on right over the factory paint of a 30s car. It took all the years of surface rust off. I have used epoxy primer over the top of phosphoric acid and never had problems with paint adhesion.
Harbor Frieght 9.99 gun rustoleum primer rustoleum 1 gallon yellow rustoleum 1 quart white turned this into this (but I will not do it again)