Power Steering for stock '41 chevy car???

I have a nice original '41 Chevy 2-door. The front suspension is all good and the car handles great So, I don't want a Mustang crossmember.

Does anyone know what Power Steering Sector will adapt to this car and leave room for a 350 Chevy V/8?

I would like to keep the original column and column shift mech. for a Saginaw 3-speed Overdrive tranny. I don't object to cutting the steering shaft for U-joints etc.

All help appreciated.

Thanks much

'41 Chev

 

Check with Chassis Engineering, www.chassisengineeringinc.com, 319-643-2645, they might have what you need.

 

Thanks, I called 'em - they don't have anything. They do have an engine mount kit that is offset to he rear to help clear the orig steering sector (which I may wind up using).

I'm hoping some has actually made this power steering mod.

'Preciate your help.

 

You will need a cross steer set up like GM used mid 60's till the rack was used. no one makes one to fit the old chevys these days. There are companys that make power rack set ups. One company i think was called "cross steer"????????? They sent you a work sheet and you took all the measurements from the front end. things like from the tie rod end(steering arm) to where the A arm mounts, as this will prevent bump steer. You had to weld on the mounts to hold the rack. I talked to a rep from a company that had what you want, and i need. I think the company was MULLINS?? and they sold out to BORGASEN?? the people with the steering U joints. when they took over they dropped the old style x-steer set up. This set up can be made. Any rear steer steer GM from the 60-70's stick to something like camero or chevelle so the parts are available. The tie rods need to be the same length as the steering arm to where the A arm mounts to the frame. the center link will be cut and welded the length is determend by the width of the frame.( you could clearly see where they welded their link) Your steering arm from the box and the other side need to be parralel with the frame and each other. you have to mount a steering box of your choice. I don't think there is a problom with clearance of the steering box and a V8 but where the steering column passes the number 7 exaust port there is little room. you may have to have the old RAM style manifold that goes up, rather than one that goes down.

 

I think the right power sector could be used if I can learn what would easily adapt. I have the rams horn exhaust manifolds that are center outlet and one for the driver's side that turns to the rear a bit. I'll have to see which to use on the driver's side. I keep hoping to run into someone who has done this one. There isn't a lot of room to spare for the shaft at the left head on a 350.

Thanks much - -

 

Has anyone here ever done this swap?????

 

I remember a swap thet was done years ago using the power ram from a 63 chev. It bolted to the cross link and the frame. This was the way that power steering was accomplished then, the box was not any diferent between power and manual. It can be done just collecting all the old parts will be the challenge. Good luck

 

Check this out. Assuming your stock steering is in good shape, this might do the trick.

http://electricpowersteering.net/ididit-steering-column-electric-power-steering-kit/

 

olcarguy, That might work - if I could find all the parts. I'll look around.

redsdad, Good suggestion - however, a retired old man can't afford that one.

Thanks to you both.

Gotta be someone who has done this with a small to medium sized power sector (ain't much room in a '41 with a 350 in it).

Keep it coming, guys.

 

I did it on my 39 Chevy and it's not that difficult. The biggest issue is the left manifold which I modified from a rams horn. there isn't a header that will work unless you go out the fenderwell.

I fabricated a simple plate that bolts on to the frame using the original steering box holes, and the GM power box bolts to that.

The trickiest part is the pitman arm. It is a two piece arm and I separated the two parts keeping the bottom half that the tie rods attach to. I used a flat pitman arm that goes on to the power box (not sure what it came from) and welded and bolted the two together.

It works very well and has worked for lots and lots of miles.

 

Where does the 41' steering box mount? Is there a short [lh] and long [rh] tie rods?

 

I did exactly what T McG did on a '48 sedan delivery and it performed flawlessly through my ownership in the 70's and beyond. Utilized the stock tie rods and aligned perfectly. I would do it the same today. I was not rocket science.

Charlie

 

I did a similar setup on my 47 Chevy. I used the full sized Saginaw box. If I remember I made a plate for some of the bolts and ran a piece of round tubing thru the frame for one of the other mounting bolts. The 605 metric box is smaller and may be a better choice today. I used the 55-56 log type manifold that dumps near the front. I think I still have the box and the pittman arm, consisting of the old and new arms welded together. Charlie Chops is correct as there are no alignment or steering issues. I took all this off after many miles of usage. I went to a Chassis Eng Mustang II setup and never looked back.

 

Now we're getting somewhere, guys! Down to brass tacks. Is the 605 metric box about the same size as the original steering sector? Also, what cars did they come on?

 

1"-32 is the spline on 605 boxes years 78-84

 

Thanks, Johnny,

Is the 605 box a lot smaller than the 800 box?

 

^^^^^ Basically the same size over all. This may be of usefull information. 800 boxes GM part number 5687962 has a 3.5-inch piston diameter. Mid-size and smaller models used a steering box tagged 5691676, and these units used a 3-inch piston. So it stands to reason that the mid size unit should be 1/4" narrower. 605's came 3.5-inch piston's only.

 

Thanks, Johnny. And, thanks to all who responded. This looks doable after all!

I'll look at both 800 & 605. Likely 605 as a '41 Chevy is very tight with a 350 stuffed in it.

The orig suspension is all good, except for play in the stg sector (rebuildable). The '41 drives and handles great. A retired budget preclude a Mustang setup. I did want power steering. With all you guys helping this ol' man, looks like I can have it.

I thank you all very much.

Any other suggestions appreciated.

'41 Chev

 

Interesting that you say it handles nice, so you don't want a Mustang II. When I put a Fatman crossmember and MII suspension in my Plymouth, I found I really didn't need power steering, I have a manual MII, and it handles/rides/steers like a dream.


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I understood him to mean the mustang II was not in his budget and maybe he wants to keep it all chevy.

 

The frontend has all been rebuilt (by PO) except the stg sector (4" of play). even then, the only time I need power steering is when I'm parking. I'm 76 and spoiled to power steering so, it would be nice to add it.

I've adapted KYB Gas-a-just shocks to the front (I have 'em for the rear) and put poly bushings on the orig sway bar so the ol' '41 does a good job.

If I don't put power steering on it (which I likely will now), I'll at least have the orig stg sector rebuilt. With the info you guys have given, I'll very likely go with the 605 box. It'll get rid of the play and make it a lot easier to park.

Thanks to all - -

'41 Chev

PS If you know an antique Chevy guy, the PO spent $8400 on this 216 six cyl engine. 'Even has insert rod bearings. I'll sell it for under half the cost of machine work and parts to make room for a 350 Vortek. It is now in the car and running good.

 

I believe you can make it fit and work well from what some of the others have said. I to used that GM power gear in a 35 chevy i had back in the 1970s era. It was bolted to the frame with flat plates and spacers and used a cross link to the right spindle , drove it all the time most days for ten years. It did have a straight axle in it not like your steering is.

The 35 i have now has the Mustang II in it but when i built it all i started with was a bare frame and beat up shell of a body . I'm going to add the power rack to it this summer . I'm just a little younger than you but not much and like that power steering.

 

If you fit a rack,i think you will find you don't need p/steer and it makes it easier for the v8 conversion.Modifying steering is a risky bussiness,so be carefull buddy!

 

Let me understand this correctly. Installing a rack is not considered a modification, but putting in a different steering box is? Both of those part's do the same thing, they move the tie rods.

 

I would gladly consider a power rack if I knew how to mount it. It would solve a stg box to exhaust clearance problem. I can't find anyone procucing a rack kit for these cars.

Has anyone done a '41 thru '48 rack installation???

Thanks guys - -

'41 Chev

 

well, i gave you the name of the company that does it

 

Chubbie, I misunderstood. I thought you said they sold out and the buyer stopped doing it. I'll call 'em Tues.

Thanks

Anyone else had experience with a rack on '41 - '48 Chevy?

 

I didn't say it wasn't a mod,it's more direct with no drag link play,easier to turn and steer

 

I can't say yes or no. I'm not that versed in Chebby's. I always believed in the kiss principle. So with that in mind...

How different is the '41 steering system from the '53 and '54 models? If they are the same can you graft the steering box to the older car? My understanding is these cars are very similar from '41 to '54.

Your car and your money, but have you thought about keeping the 6 and adding speed parts to it?

 

IMHO, putting speed equipment on my fully rebuilt 216" engine is impractical. With it's splash oiling system they can be driven a max of 60-65 mph safely. A long run at 70-75 mph would surely melt the rod & main bearings. The later 235" and larger "full pressure" six cyl's would take 75-80 OK. This 216 does have insert rod bearings (no babbit) which is much better. It is all new inside and an excellent 216. However, it still has the splash oiling - only the mains and rocker arms get oil from the pump. The PO put $8400 in the engine (I have the receipts). Just machine work and parts alone will run $4300-$4400. I need to sell it to an antiquer for around $2200.

Back to steering, the '49-'54 Chevies had a center link and an idler arm that the '40-'48 didn't have. After all the good advice you guys have given, I'm confident I can use a 605 box. I would still like to learn how to adapt a rack before I decide. So, keep it coming guys.

I really appreciate all of you.

'41 Chev