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help with model A floor construction

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by 31A-Bone, Jun 21, 2013.

  1. 31A-Bone
    Joined: Feb 27, 2013
    Posts: 13

    31A-Bone
    Member
    from SO CAL

    Hey guys, just getting ready to do the floor in my chopped and channelled 31 model A.
    Can anyone post pics of how they did there floors so I can get some ideas?


    Thanks!
     
  2. hooliganshotrods
    Joined: Dec 2, 2010
    Posts: 629

    hooliganshotrods
    Member

    It's not hard, build a sub floor, I used 1x1 tubing and then skin it. If you have a bead roller then get creative on the panels. are you planning on having the floor removable or welded and carpeted over, there is lots of options. Do a search.
     
  3. 31A-Bone
    Joined: Feb 27, 2013
    Posts: 13

    31A-Bone
    Member
    from SO CAL

    Ya... 1x1 and sheeting was what I was thinking aswell so i can keep some head room, I just wanted to see some construction photos
    To get some visuals ya know? I did some searches but didn't come up with much.
     
  4. 31A-Bone
    Joined: Feb 27, 2013
    Posts: 13

    31A-Bone
    Member
    from SO CAL

    And no I will not have a removable floor. I want the floor skeleton and sheet to be part of the body and not secured to the frame just set on it so when I pull the body the floor comes with it....if that makes sense....
     

  5. Dirty Dug
    Joined: Jan 11, 2003
    Posts: 3,712

    Dirty Dug
    Member

    You might want to consider a removable transmission tunnel. It might make life easier down the road.
     
  6. oltruckag
    Joined: Aug 13, 2009
    Posts: 114

    oltruckag
    Member

    I don't have any good pictures of my floor, but I used 1x1 with "main tubes" running between the a pillars and b pillars. The attached picture is the rear half from the b-pillar back. On top of the tubing I've got 18g welded to the tubes and where it interfaces with the firewall. I've also attached a finished shot - the plywood still needs to be varnished.
     

    Attached Files:

  7. Start by looking at diagrams of repro A subrails and so forth. Copy that -
     
  8. ANDEREGG TRIBUTE
    Joined: Jan 1, 2008
    Posts: 1,385

    ANDEREGG TRIBUTE
    Member
    from Bordertown

    Didn't do a subfloor out of tubing on mine. 18g steel with a center channel that runs across the top of the frame rails and k-member for some extra support. The sides I added some bent channels to extend the existing subfloor up to the new floorboards.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  9. manyolcars
    Joined: Mar 30, 2001
    Posts: 9,189

    manyolcars

    Rusty got it right. No manufacturer ever felt that it was necessary to add all the weight of square tubing to the floor. Do it right and the next owner wont have to cut your work out.
     
  10. ANDEREGG TRIBUTE
    Joined: Jan 1, 2008
    Posts: 1,385

    ANDEREGG TRIBUTE
    Member
    from Bordertown

    This is what I meant by the channel added to the existing structure. The extra 2 inches on top of the bottom door jam. It runs the length of the entire floor from the firewall just to infront of the wheel wells.
    [​IMG]

    Plus you can see that perpendicular channel just behind the e-brake. All the strength and support is built into the floor itself. It also continues back up and over the frame to create the inner trunk as well.
     
    Last edited: Jun 21, 2013
  11. 31A-Bone
    Joined: Feb 27, 2013
    Posts: 13

    31A-Bone
    Member
    from SO CAL

    Thanks for the comments guys this is good info for me keep it comming.....the main reason I was thinking 1x1 tubing was to add some structural integrity back to the bottom of the body since I had to cut the floor completely out.

    I like the 2" channel idea but since I chopped the top I can't sacrifice that extra inch of head room..lol might be able to do the same with 1"....
     
  12. oltruckag
    Joined: Aug 13, 2009
    Posts: 114

    oltruckag
    Member

    I contemplated getting a set of repop rails, or even trying to fab something similar, but channeling a model A 4" over the frame requires way to much of it chopped out. The original subrails and the lower 6" of the body I started with didn't even have enough remaining metal to even make a pattern from. The 1" tube I used is no heavier than the original subrails - 18g tubing, properly laid out and welded is sufficiently strong and light.

    Oh - and if anyone has a dimensioned sketch of model a subrails that I was supposed to copy, post them up. I searched for hours to find just the basic width measurements at the a and b-pillars. Most of the references that folks point to for measurements are the frame drawings.
     
  13. Nocero
    Joined: May 16, 2002
    Posts: 489

    Nocero
    Member

    This will give you an idea what I did. I wanted it to be super strong. Just be aware you want your door gaps right before starting the floor especially if you build it really rigid. ImageUploadedByTJJ1371895563.685742.jpg ImageUploadedByTJJ1371895578.954097.jpg ImageUploadedByTJJ1371895591.019665.jpg ImageUploadedByTJJ1371895606.157537.jpg


    Posted from the TJJ App for iPhone & iPad
     
  14. Subrails with metric dimensions. I think I made a copy and converted to inches. PM me if you want those.
    RB
     

    Attached Files:

  15. Think about recesses in the floor, this gives more headroom.
    It a lot of extra work but if you need headroom with a chop&channel rig ...
     
  16. Here's some pics from when i did the floors on my chopped, channeled, and sectioned coupe.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  17. 31A-Bone
    Joined: Feb 27, 2013
    Posts: 13

    31A-Bone
    Member
    from SO CAL

    Great pics guys thanks! I don't think I can use left-right sub rails because of my 4" channel. So without that its looking like 1x1 unless I'm missing something. These pics are giving me really good examples thanks, the continued help is much appreciated!
     
  18. oltruckag
    Joined: Aug 13, 2009
    Posts: 114

    oltruckag
    Member

    Saving to the library of useful stuff. I may even CAD that up...

    Thanks for posting that - that is amazingly hard to come by.
     
  19. Did you ever get them drew into a CAD drawing?
     
  20. dusty123
    Joined: Aug 28, 2013
    Posts: 2

    dusty123
    Member
    from Akron

    Are you 100% sure all these dimensions are correct? If they are I have big problems with my new rails. Can someone verify these please? In Std. not Metric would be great. Thanks
     

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