T Bucket Bodies Question "Who To Use"

On the door issue, I know it can be done, (you can buy them that way) but with a fiberglass body, you will lose strength on that side. Even with wood supports it will flex.

 

Often wondered that

 

All i know is after havin a t bucket for 20 + yrs is get a door on it cuz it gets harder with age to jump into the sucker lol!

 

When I cut my door , I made a steel internal frame that ties in w/the door jambs ,dash ,windshield mounts, around the back of the tub all attached to a truss structure that runs across under the seat & is attached to [what I deemed critical points ] the body w imbedment plates epoxied on. I wish I still had my build pics , but a computer crash took care of those. The body I used was a Cal Automotive body [think really flimsy] that I bought in 1968, so it required a LOT of reinforcement .

dave

 

I still jump over the sides of my cars. The one thing that turned me off about a door in a T body was that my buddy had one in his T and when I rode shotgun my arm would get pinched when we went over bumps because the gap would tighten up. I guess proper bracing could handle that though.

Don

 

As a side note, I'm opening both doors on mine. I'll post in my thread when I do it as I've opened dozens of them over the years. I'll seldom use the drivers door but my wife has a hard time with the "over the side" thing. I just like the way the hinges look on the body even though the original bodies only had a passenger door. The doors are easy to whack out. The hard part is building an inner structure stiff enough to keep everything in alignment. Also, I always use the small bear jaw latches because the surface ones with no safety locking provisions tend to not do well in a bucket. Shit flying out at 80 is definitely no fun. I'm also going to bond some detail strips on the cowl and around the dash which furthers the illusion of a steel body. Remember, one of the best looking deuces of all time, Jim Inglese "Full House", was glass and most people never noticed or cared. I have no problems with a glass body at all.

Having built a bunch of these, I will say, steering wheel position is critical for a good looking package so you have to plan that in "up front" when you build the chassis. Otherwise the car starts looking like Mr. Magoo is driving. The best example is Dons, (Dons Hot Rods on here). A pic for your perusal......


He has a great build thread on another site he may want to share that details how he built it for $3,000 (yeah right!). At least it started that way.

 

I will search over there. Thanks tfeverfred. I really don't want to cut a body and make a mistake and if I feel I will really want a door I may just order a body with it.

Ok I gotcha now and understand. I wonder how that would look? Do you think it would give it more of a dragster feel or look?

 

I'm back again! Just for the record I've gotten my T frames down to a science and the dimensions I use are....

Front, across the frame rails 24", pretty standard. This dimension takes most power plants and clears the starter and oil filter on just about all motors except the big Hemis and some Ford FE's.

Rear 30"
Overall frame length, 105 1/4"

On my new one I'm using a 3" sweep in the front and a 12 1/2" Z in the rear to get the car as low as possible without cutting into the interior too bad. I don't think this much drop will work if your using a bigger trans, mine's a '39 toploader. Typical is straight front rails and about a 7" drop in the rear. The Doane Spencer type sweep and front end setup on mine allows for the undropped Model A axle that I love and mounts my 'bones, '48 Ford or Merc, with no brackets off the bottom of the frame.



In addition I hate the way the front crossmember looks "rolled" in to the frame. The best I've seen, and my favorite for years now, is the way Norm Grabowski did the Lightning Bug, the forerunner to the Kookie car. Here's how they look..



The tube, 2 5/8" .125 DOM is still welded into the frame, it just looks bolted.

Just some things to think about.

 

2 years ago my father built a T for his buddy using a speedway kit. He got the body with the floor, in, door hung, and bed mounted. I think it was like 12-1300 with all the options. It was very nice. The body needed very little prep work. In 1999 or 2000, I helped my father build his T with a spirit body. It wasnt bad, but needed a good amount of body work to make straight. The bed on the other hand was a joke, and did not even fit the body. I have also used an unlimited products body before. Cheap. And needs a lot of prep work. If I was going to build another fiberglass T, I would go with the speedway body.

 

Not sure how to tell what brand they are,i have not seen enough of them to see the differences, i run no door,my dads had a door and it rattled going down the road, something to think about!

 

Same here. They would make getting in and out easier, but I also think you'd lose body strength. Maybe a "step" could be used instead. Although, I don't like those either.

I'm planning a '27 build and it will probably have a door.... or two.

 

Remember these? I think they came in your choice of metalflake gelcoat. $169 for body and frame.
http://t3.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcRoom_oI72ApGubuLb_eKY8N-hqrOAymxbz5RtFr49Q2j-7fTXZow

 

My first dream car. Memories. Took 35 years for it to happen.

 

Mounting and installation of windshield posts and frames is usually the most difficult area of T bucket construction. Probably not since the first body mould was made from an original body in the 50s has it been done again. Original Ts were not wonders of fit and finish. Even original posts ( stamped steel 23-25 and 26-27) and stanchions ( cast steel 09-22) have differences in shapes and hole placement.

So many manufacturers of bodies thes days and so many opinions.

 

SH!T.... I hope that's not true......

I haven't bought mine yet.... was planning to buy mine this fall at Carlisle.

 

CoronetRTguy, check this out.
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=810772

 

All this talk on fiberglass bodies has made me glad I decided to go metal.

Honestly I have seen all kinds of these 26-27 T touring bodies around that are perfect to turn into shorter hotrod bodies and metal work really isn't rocket science

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=460009&highlight=26&showall=1

 

I've been watching this thread since my first post on it. I keep wondering why anybody wants to take the time to build another fiberglass T bucket. Just go to craigs list or ebay or any rod run and you see plenty of them for sale. Just save up a few thousand $, buy one and make a few changes to make it like you want it. At least then you will have a little history. Really what this world needs is another fiberglass T bucket.

 

Skip the doors.......step on a side nerf bar or radius rod to get in. Also, skip the wood reinforcement and lay up more fiberglass where you need extra strength. You only need wood reinforcement if you cut in a "rattle trap" door! On my modified, without a turtle deck or box, my wife steps on the quick change and enters from the back.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Blue One
All this talk on fiberglass bodies has made me glad I decided to go metal.

Honestly I have seen all kinds of these 26-27 T touring bodies around that are perfect to turn into shorter hotrod bodies and metal work really isn't rocket science


All this talk on fiberglass bodies has made me glad I decided to go metal.

Honestly I have seen all kinds of these 26-27 T touring bodies around that are perfect to turn into shorter hotrod bodies and metal work really isn't rocket science

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...t=26&showall=1
Quote:
Originally Posted by steel rebel
Ford Motor Co. is best.
I've been watching this thread since my first post on it. I keep wondering why anybody wants to take the time to build another fiberglass T bucket. Just go to craigs list or ebay or any rod run and you see plenty of them for sale. Just save up a few thousand $, buy one and make a few changes to make it like you want it. At least then you will have a little history. Really what this world needs is another fiberglass T bucket.


I've not made up my mind yet on glass or steel. I do see glass as a future possibility though.
Living in the South East (FL). Stuff isn't as plentiful and cheap here.

Anyway, he asked about glass bodies.

 

That is the reason for my posts. For those who haven't made up their minds yet fiberglass or steel and for the ones who don't even think about using original steel. Honestly those bodies are still out there and the pride of owning one I can't describe.

 

I understand. Believe me, if I had both in front of me and the steel one was a few hundred more. I would go with steel.
I think where it gets questionable is when you want to have a turtle deck. Just running a " bucket" is one thing

 

The problem for me with steel is if I find a body its to far away and to have it shipped I'm way deep into it with price. I like steel but to keep my cost and budget in line I can't afford it.

Also getting a title in the state of VA gets sticky for some reason with just a body. I know with glass I can show a ticket of purches at DMV after they inspect my car issue me a title for it.

I found a full T bucket with turtle deck and motor for 2k. If I could use the frame or trust it might be worth it but the body does need some metal work.

 

You know I really need to get out of here because I am so against fiberglass but a full metal T bucket with turtle deck for 2K is a no brainer for me but then I don't know your metalwork skills. Might be best for you to just buy something you can bolt together and leave the real stuff for someone who really appreciates it.

 

CoronetRTguy a glass body will take some work. I would look into steel. In the d even resale on steel is 100% better. Patches if need are cheap. I've always been a steel guy at heart.

 

When you are bliping down the road 99.9% of the people who see you dont give a ratz-ass what the body is made out of! Isn't this whole thing about socializing with people and not forming "CLICS". Do what ever gets you on the road quicker

 

I'm not against steel. I just have never done any welding and my dad who welds is legally blind so finding someone to help me weld it up will cost me money. I don't mind working and doing the work myself but 2K just for what I know will only be the body I use that is crazy money.

I don't know what resell value would be on an all steel bucket. Tell me what it could be if done right (traditional) and you know I may go with this full bucket.

Don't leave I value every ones opinion and anyone who makes me stop and think before I do anything helps me out and helps me to learn.

Yeah I have worked with glass before and not to worried about what I will have to do to it. My dad was telling me if it rains that is the best time to work fiber glass down outside lol he said you wont itch after doing it that way lol.

I may go with the steel body I just can't make the dollar amount come out to my budget of 8-10K I think anything over that and I will never get my money out of it if I ever sell.

 

Hearing what you are saying I think you should stick to a pre made frame and fiberglass.

I do have a confession to make. Fiberglass on my car. But then I made the fiberglass kool.

 

I do dig your car. If I had friends in the area or if I got my car club off the ground and everyone helped each other I would do something different.

When you have a stroke at age 29 and all your so called friends walk away and you never hear from them again it kind of leaves a bad taste in your mouth. I helped work on their cars and my dad did as well. A lot of those guys are good with welding too.

 

Yeah Fuck Me I'm just an ass hole trying to make decisions for someone without walking in his shoes. You and your dad build something kool together while you both have each other.
Gary