MR SHORTY Returns to Washington after 18 years...

Very cool little truck. I remember it from way back then, thought it must have been wrecked, wornout, or at least returned to it's elements by now. Good that you got it back and the upgrades will make it better than ever. I've got a '79 454 1 ton dually that I've been saving for a COE project so maybe your project will light a fire under me to make it happen.

Frank

 

Go for it! Thanks - MR SHORTY is a Zombie now.....



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Yesterday was nice and sunny, so the wife and I took the COE out for her longest drive since the re-birth. 50 some miles in a loop thru Buckley, Enumclaw, Black Diamond, Maple Valley, Auburn and back home. No problems.

 

Latest upgrades: Repro speedo, mirrors, turned down tailpipes and some Black Widow infestation. Speedo needle bounced a little at first, took out the speedo cable and lubed it with GM Super Lube - that fixed that - great stuff. Cable looks like it was new 20 years ago - but felt sticky rather than slippery - 126 inches long! That’s a lot of sticky cable to drag from friction.


Took apart the new mirror head that was loose and squished the inside piece in a vise – that tightened it up……….

 

Very cool Coe! Not digging the new rims however. Vintage style would look better imho.

 

The COE we now affectionately call “Krusty” because of her current weathered state.

Drove it to a show in Roslyn last Saturday, 180 miles round trip over the pass with no problems. Too bad they didn’t have a people’s choice vote award, because we had a constant parade of folks making positive comments and talking to us all day. “What is it? Did they make them like that as a pick-up? What engine?” I must have said “472 Cadillac” about 53 times. Two local newspapers took pictures and information.

Two trucks on I-90 along the way, and a pic at the show...

 

Attacked the heavy surface rust today on the hood and roof. Dewalt 11,000 RPM angle grinder, cup wire wheel and 3M sandblaster wheel hogged it down pretty quick. Two coats Ospho, two coats Rustoleum rusty metal primer first, then 3 coats of a 50/50 mix Rustoleum semi-gloss and flat black created a close to matching dullness to the weathered remaining black. Partial right front fender and door in Rustoleum black so far. Kinda fun to use a house roller on a car.

Rust never sleeps, but this should put it in a coma for a bit. Will be able to wash it, not worry about being caught it the rain, or when I have it outside to work on the Dart. Might have lost a little character, but heavy flaking rust isn't kool in my book.....

 

Great looking truck what a beast thanks for the updates look forward to reading more. Must agree with HotRod60F100 I prefer the old style rims as well

 

The no krust look.... Just used Ospho and Rustoleum rusty metal primer and black enamel on the COE, just for a temporary seal on the heavy surface rust. It will really need sandblasting come real re-paint time.

 

what he said.... looks off with those wheels and tires

 

second that

 

The artillery wheels I found afterwards in post 57 above would have been kool too.

People have mistaken the mags for American Racing torq thrust wheels.

All I know is a little boy at the Roslyn show made my day as he walked thru at the end with his family as people were beginning to leave.... "That's my favorite truck in the whole car show"..... Pretty good coming from him....

 

It's kool.. but it's just a wheel change away from being very kool!

 

Just got an aluminum radiator for her to replace the leaking original still in there.

Superior Radiator that I found out about here on the HAMB - gave my great service, even in August which must be busy for radiator shops. Just 2 weeks from order to my doorstep including adding a radiator return hose fitting unique to COE's. Even their packaging saved the day - came with a 2" deep crease across the front of the box. Thanks to the engineered triple box - no harm done. Price was good too, and made in USA. They are also on eBay here.

Have a FlowKooler water pump and RobertShaw T-stat already waiting too.

 

Yeah, I would have went with the Artillery wheels in Red, with Factory Hubcaps. Would have been a nice accent to the red already on the truck, & made the truck look like an assembly line product.

 

Here she is at the Issaquah, Washnigton XXX Root beer drive-in car show circa 1992, and the Rat Bastards car club show there today 2013. Parking lot changed a bit in 21 years, shade trees had time to be planted and grow. The Rat Bastards put on a great show. Met HAMB member One Crusty One there in the flesh.

These drive-ins have been around since 1930 - This is the only one left that still has the barrel sign.

http://www.triplexrootbeer.com/history.htm

 

Now that the rains have come to western Washington, working on the radiator install. Went real smooth first day, got the new water pump, thermostat and overflow tank installed. Radiator trial fitted, but the 18" diameter fan in there does not clear the lower hose. So have a 16" Flex-a-lite fan coming.

What would we do without eBay - usually always find the best price on there for parts. And without all the running around looking for parts.

 

Radiator all in - time for a shroud.

Why is it great threads from HAMB pop up when you Google. Sweet idea, just found this thread yesterday by Googlin' how to make a fan shroud. Already started the mock-up. A bit of a challenge in my COE with limited access. One thing I did different, since I am still waiting on the UPS person to deliver my 16" fan - I made an 18" disc from Masonite with a 5/8" pilot hole. This locates the fan opening perfectly:

Another similar how to article in Street Rodder mag here.

 

Here's the shroud after after rough trim. Challenge now will be to get it in location, even at half a shroud. May have to remove floor boards to get it in there in one piece. Either that or split it down the middle....

The standard cab AD radiator fit fine - just had to slot the mounting holes. Fan and overflow in too. Have driven it some hoodless to test - working good....

 

Taped the shroud in place for a test - Before it would not hold a shop rag at the top of the radiator at slow idle..... Look at her go now.....

 

COE shroud all done - Good little project, a few evenings of work over the course of a couple weeks. You can only do so much every night anyway, then let things cure.

Did split it down the middle and added a strip of glass for a 2" overlap. Bonded Rotaloc 1/4 - 20 nut plates to the back for the split and mounting. Simply shot it in Krylon high heat radiator satin black. Not very visable so did not bother with a skim coat of polyester spot putty or anything. To heck with the shop rag test - that is a 20x40 terry cloth towel folded twice - 4 layers held in place at slow idle - on top where it had no idle air flow before.

 

What a cool deal! I love that you were able to get her back and do the refresh. As for the "Wheel Controversy".... I like 'em! It really does add to that Hot Wheels vibe. Maybe lay on some red stripes like Mattel, and you're golden!

I'll pick up a COE when they finally drop in price in my neck of the woods. They've dropped some, but still not in my price range.

Thanks for the write up!

- Jimmy

 

Thanks - the wheels stay.

Got her all buttoned up - Never did have the radiator filler panel in there, it traveled back and forth to California too as a spare, bent & rusty part. Straightened her a bit, and spray bombed her the same radiator black. This should help direct COOL outside air to the radiator - rather than HOT under-hood air.

 

Bought 12 ton jack stands this week and with the added height and safety over my 6 tons. First time under the COE I realized the rear tranny mount was toast, and the turbo 400 dipstick was leaking. Pretty sure I replaced the tranny pan gasket last time not realizing it was the dipstick tube o-ring leaking again. Guess it helps to have room to work.

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200330725_200330725

 

Great to see updates

 

You fellows are just saying that because this forum is for traditional hotrods and not 'dub' wheels

 

OE door latches on AD trucks barely worked when new, and the repops are even worse. Tried a new set of CounterPart repops to no avail, so went for the bear claw install over the turkey day weekend.

Followed this guy's basic idea, except a bit cleaner. Simply ran door solenoid cable, from the bear claw latch to the inside handle. And two seperate cables from the door button and the bear claw latch, to a bell crank down to the door access panel.

http://www.picturetrail.com/sfx/album/view/19808817

Here's one side after welding and grinding, ready for the other side. Then a little polyester putty, and spray bomb spot repair. Opens and closes soooo much easier now.

 

During the break between latches, installed a tranny dipstick behind the seat. Access before was harder to get to under the seat, by the battery. Could have used this over the last few months of fighting the B&M aluminum tranny pan leak. Finally cured it with Permatex anaerobic sealer. Knock on wood!

http://www.permatex.com/products-2/...alants/permatex-anaerobic-gasket-maker-detail

 

Spray bomb spot repair finished - on to the other side.........

 

Marvelous!!