I am building a 36 ford 5 w. I am still rounding up parts and I am interested other people's opinions on what to build for the rear. I started with a nice bare frame and pretty good sheet metal. Here is what I have so far for a drivetrain. Front 4 drop axle with discs 66 283 new build dyno 290 hp 350 turbo or a 2004r Explorer rear axles (2) plan to use the 2 short axles and convert to drum brakes I'm leaning to more of a custom look and want to be able to cover lots of miles trouble free and able to buy parts on the road if the need arises. I know it is not 100% traditional but it is what I got and it will be a nice running car. Here are what my options are as I figure it out, plan to use the explorer axle. Parallel leaf springs ( probably not low enough) Transverse leaf spring and 36 radius rods, raise the crossmember notch the frame Triangulated 4 link welder series (notch) Parallel 4 link welder series ( notch) Bag or not to bag? I am thinking I should have a suspension that matches the front drop axle handling wise if that makes sense. Tell what your opinions are from experience with these type of builds. Thanks
I've used parallel leaf springs under several 40 Ford coupes,,which is basically the same frame. Very easy to get it low using blocks and it's a good working suspension. I prefer the older old Maverick,Granada or Mustang rear axles,,they fit without having to shorten the axles. HRP
Lift springs, left springs? Are we talking LEAF springs? Thought I read on here some time ago about a few guys using an aftermarket parallel leaf kit on 36s and having some problems. Might have to do a search.
The old stuff is long gone in these parts. Even the explorer axle is a big pile of rust. It would be nice to find a southern western axle housing.
I used a chassis engineering kit on a 52 chev and it was okay and well built. Not sure of the other builders. I know there was one complaint about not low enough with the leaf springs on a 36 5w build here on this site.
Use the original transverse spring flattened - spread your hanger out further apart on the housing - C notch the rails. These springs have a big arch that when flattened makes for a big drop …. A shorter front spring could be used if a rear starts growing too long when flattened.   With parallels it will be hard to get it low without huge blocks that leave the springs hanging down looking like crap … plus its brand X design that has no place on an early ford
I agree 100%,.... C.E. kits tuck up tight under the chassis and are almost invisible under a full fender car... The ride height is totally up to you with whatever blocks you decide to use, You can change it as often as you want.........And the ride is awesome
Yep ! He's right,... And I have used a ton of them in building chassis,... But never on a 35 or a 36... Just sayin'
I had one suggestion to use a Model A rear crossmember, de-arch or use posies rear spring and a notch. Without the torque tube and only raduis rods, how do you get the extra strength to hold the rear axle in place? Is that a valid question? Thanks everybody for your replies.
Using a model A rear crossmember and spring you would have to cut a pretty large hole in the trunk area to accommodate it.. The 35/36 Bones are really stout... But should be mounted to as close to there original configuration as possible Close to the center of the car.... This uses 36' bones, a 40 Merc. front spring and a custom bent crossmember.
I used the CE kit under my '35 and like the ride. I got an exhaust system from Red's Headers, but never thought about lowering blocks. Looked better with 2" blocks but then the tailpipe hit all the time, so the blocks came out. Just suggesting to plan ahead.... RB
Okay I did a search on torque tubes, 36 raduis arms and torque arms. Quite a bit of engineering to get it right. I also understand better how the ford suspension works. I have a heavy foot and I could see breaking & bending stuff on a poorly thought out or executed set up. I want to have a suspension that is balanced or equal on the front and rear if that is the right term. When it comes to handling and all round drivability is there combinations that work and don't work between the front and rear? If I had a trianglulated 4 link rear and straight axle front would it drive okay or be any strange handling traits? Thanks for the education so far guys!
Old parts are so rotten here, it is hard to find early 90s vehicles. The backing plates are always rotten and the drums too. The crushers give 100 to 200 and they are gone. I picked up 2 disc brake rears local and bought a set of used drum backing plates and hardware from Utah on evilbay and will buy new drums some sandblasting and be almost new. 9 inch fords are long gone I these parts.
Chassis Engineering parallel leaf kit under my '40 Ford sedan delivery with 8.8/drums and Bilstein gas shocks. 2" lowering blocks get it as low as I would ever want to go. Parts are readily available and it rides nicely....
I have Chassis Engineering parallel leaf kit under my 39, and goes real easy with Granada rear drops right in you may want lowering blocks.
Yikes! I just scored a 1991 Ranger 8.8, in the yard since 1996. It looks 6-months old. California dreamin'.
Paid $80 for my last 8.8" 3.73 posi minus drums but inc. backing plates and all other brake hardware. Everything checked out, looks minty - 47k miles on wrecked donor. Found it locally on C/L - what's not to love about that?
I'm running a later chrysler rear end with 36 bones. I made some brackets that bolt to the wish bones and are welded to the diff that push the diff up and lower the car. I'm running stock spring.
I had Posies parallel leafs and a '79 Bronco 9" (perfect width) under my '35 Slantback....worked very well.
Does any of the aftermarket suppliers make a substitute for 36 radius rods? Maybe Pete & jakes or Drake? Thanks
Hello All i am new to HAMB i have a 1936 slant back i have been reading a lot of poste and doing research on rear ends i cant find a 91-94 explorer ,, but i did find a 97 with disk brakes it is 59.25 WMS is it too wide for a 36 i see posts that say need to use 2 short sides? is that necessary or nice to have? thanks