I need the HAMBs help to know if my oil pressure is normal. I have an AV8 build with a 59ab flathead that came out of an industrial welder. Before installing the motor I took the oil pan off and scraped and cleaned the sludge out and did the same under the intake manifold. There wasn't a lot of sludge like other flatheads that I have cleaned but enough. I also put a new oil pump screen on as well. Well I am running a beehive oil filter from offenhauser and am not running a full flow system. I did solder up one of the fittings on my inlet side of the oil filter and drill a .060 hole for restriction. So when I crank the flatty I have around 60-50lbs of oil pressure and it stays that way till the motor gets warm from driving. As I am driving it shows around 5 to 15lbs and some times a little less while driving and idling at stop signs. I did notice that the top cover on my oil filter seems to leak a little oil After the car has ran and got warm. The oil filter isn't mounted vertically but has a slight kick pack to it due to it being mounted on a 1929 ford firewall. Could this leaking oil filter be any of my problem? Its not leaking a lot but is noticeable and not sure if it leaked every time. I am running 20w-50 valvoline racing oil that has the zinc in it and probably have drove the car a total of 10 miles since it has been done. I also put 5 qts of oil in the engine 4.25 QTS in the engine and .75 QTS in the oil filter. Does any of this sound out of place or is this oil pressure normal for a flatty?
It is probably ok Mine has less oil pressure than yours, but my motor is in worse shape. An important amount of oil pressure with Flat heads is Some. All the Best, Yours for Longer Hoods, Roger
My 8ba runs around 15psi when it's hot. Yours seems low @ 5psi with a fresh build. Did you check bearing tolerance? (I really don't know much about 59ab tolerances, but that has a lot to do with oil pressure). I doubt the oil filter leak has anything to do with it... unless it's a gusher!!! 3ball.
3 to 5 at hot slow idle is OK, most run 15 to 40 down the road at 1800 to 2200 RPM's hot. Less and you may wish to put in new bearings.
sounds about right My 36' does 50 cold idle, 60-70 rev/run cold. Then drops to 20 hot idle, 40-45 hot rev/run. 30w. more stuff on the subject... http://fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=105251&highlight=oil+pressure
Ditto what John Evans said....Fresh bearings will make a difference. Worn cam bearings will drop the o.p. too. An old Ford shop manual reads "25 psi @ 30 mph". 4TTRUK
59ab runs ~20psi when hot going down the road and it is a fairly fresh motor. Try some 'Power Punch' (added to 40 wt oil) - will make it run a little higher PSI + protect the cam and other internals.
Yes even when all fresh and new. If you look at how the V8’s oiled oil is pumped to the cam and routed to the bottom end from there….except for the rear main. A friend of mine has had custom cam bearing made that have a single oil hole…to oil the cam. He cuts oil passages groves in the block to route the oil around the cam bearing instead of around the groves in the cam shaft. The result has been more oil and presser at the mains and rods … and overall.
Since it's a 59AB, pull the intake off again. Then unscrew the oil pressure relief plug at the front of the lifter valley. Take out the spring and check ball and clean this area out well. Put it all back together and if you want a wee bit more pressure put a washer or shim under the plug cap. Don't overdo it, maybe 1/8" or so. I also prefer Diesel oils - not for the zinc necessarily, but their additive packages seem to hold hot oil pressure better. I had been running 20W50 automotive oil in my old flatty and would register near zero at hot idle and 15-20 running down the road. Switching to 10W40 Shell Rotella or Mobil Delovac and I have 5-7 at hot idle and 20-25 running down the road. I even tried switching back just to see if something had changed in the engine - nope - same results. They're happy enough at those pressures, so don't let it worry you too much. It's hard not to though!
Power Punch is an oil additive. The company has been around since 1953. Google it and you can find a distributor or buy online. They have a techline too - good people that will talk to you. Encouraged them to become an Alliance Vendor here. Note: See the PP related site/info below. http://pnsca.com/2010/04/power-punch-returns-as-title-sponsor/ POWER PUNCH * POWER PUNCH OIL SUPPLEMENTS POWER PUNCH OIL SUPPLEMENTS use the latest in Petroleum Polymer technology to increase the film strength of any oil. This stronger oil film is much harder to penetrate under load and heat and therefore prevents metal-to-metal contact, which causes wear, heat and wasted horsepower. Less wear and heat means much longer life for both the equipment and the oil. The high strength oil film also cushions the metal parts to provide quieter operation because shock loads are dampened. POWER PUNCH also stabilizes the viscosity of oil during high load or temperature operation to prevent breakdown and the creation of sludge. POWER PUNCH used in an engine provides a better surface for sealing of piston rings and therefore more power available at the crankshaft. Higher compression, less contamination and lower heat all lead to more power, greater efficiency and lower emissions. Contamination of the oil by combustion products is also significantly reduced and this gives cleaner and longer lasting oil. When you first start your engine all the oil is in the oil pan - unless you use POWER PUNCH! With the famous POWER PUNCH clinging power a protective film of oil remains adhered to your engine's critical parts - even if it sits for a long time. This film provides corrosion protection until you start your engine and lubrication until your engine's oil pressure is established. In any type of equipment, prevention of oil leaks depends upon flexible seals as well as the film strength of the oil. POWER PUNCH keeps seals pliable and it's stronger film assists in keeping your garage floor clean and the oil where it should be … in your equipment. Less oil lost is money saved. Hydraulic systems such as those in tractors, lift systems, automatic transmissions and power steering can also benefit from the qualities of POWER PUNCH. Adding approximately 10% POWER PUNCH will provide cooler operation, less wear, smoother control and control leaks. Substantially longer equipment life can result with less maintenance necessary and down time.
Some Good info here on an Age old problem. I've heard it a hundred times. A guy feels he can rebuild his Flat Motor so he does Rings, Bearings and pokes a New race cam in it with adjustable lifters. The valves looked good (enough) being they are a lot of work for the Home Mechanic. Runs grate except It didn't fix my Low oil pressure. Cam Bearings? Why would I change those? It's like hearing a Pattsy Cline song, still sounds the same no matter how many times you hear it. The Wizzard
Just curious, did any of you change your oil pump and screen? They have a high flow pump @ 80lbs and a regular flow @ 50lbs of pressure?
The Jalopy Journal
