Frames painted with rustoleum LETS SEE THEM!!

I am going to be painting the frame on my f100 soon and I figure rustoleum is pretty reasonably priced so I thought I would use it. Post pics of the frames you have painted with it.

 

how about this one...

 

I don't have any really good photos of the frame, but it is shot in satin finish black that was thinned to spray consistency with acetone.....slick dry in 3-4 hours depending on temp. and seems to be pretty tough.



The biggest down side I've seen with the satin finish is that it doesn't stand up well to direct sunlight. I've got a trailer that was painted with satin rustoleum and within 2 years it has turned a chalky gray. I've had good luck on frames that are not directly exposed.

 

Part of your fading problem could be the acetone. If you are determined to run on the cheap, go to an industrial paint supplier that still sells air dried enamals (something like Northern Paint up here...not sure who you have in the states) and get enamel reducer. It's a better product for what you are doing and shouldn't cost much more. That being said, cheaper products are going to fade faster than something like a urethane or polyurethane. Having done all the work to remove rust, something like IMRON would be my personal choice, but definitely more expensive in the short term.

 

Wow not bad at all!

 

Acetone is what rustoleum specified to be used in that particular paint.. I'm not that concerned about the fading, just an observation for the the o/p. Trailers are not on my list to receive high dollar paints.

 

Done with their satin black.

 

Dos,

That is clean!

 

Semi-Gloss Rattle Can.

Looks better in the pictures. But they always do, right?

 

I wouldn't use rustoleum on the frame. Use 395A. An old tried and true undercoating that can be sprayed or brushed. Used it for decades.
395A found at Napa or paint supplies

 

the main issue with spraying it, rolling it or whatever is it never fully hardens. I would suggest buying a hardner for it. It becomes almost like a powder coat.

 

If it's about expense, you're really not going to save anything buying the 10 to 15 spray cans of paint you'll end up needing. At $6 per can average, you're going to have at least $60, but more likely $90 to $100 in cost. And that's not even the Industrial Rustoleum that you should use if you decide to.

I'd buy an industrial epoxy in the color you want and use that. This is the same paint used on steel hand rails in schools and businesses, steel doors, etc..

Valspars version is called LIC and can be tinted any color, and comes in flat, satin and gloss. I bought one gallon, with LIC hardener/activator and LIC thinner (to make it easier to shoot) for around $90 total. Guess what, by the time I extend it I'll have about 1.5 gallons sprayable...WAY too much. Get 1/2 gallon plus the extras for around $50 and buy a $25 HVLP gun and spray it the right way....you'll be happier with the results, and you'll have a gun for future needs.

 

What does the HVLP stand for?

 

High Volume Low Pressure

 

I bought that purple gun from Harbor freigt that they always have in their paper. Is it any good?

 

The purple HF gun works pretty good with rustoleum, the cheaper guns spray larger droplets of paint, less atomization, when I use them with rustoleum it doesn't seem to matter much, its such a slow drying product it self levels. I do suggest getting a compatible paint hardener for rustoleum. You stll need to learn how to use the gun, adjust your spray pattern and travel speed for a good coat without runs, frames aren't too bad.

 

Great thread, subscribed...I was thinking about spraying or rolling my frame when I get to it. Thanks for all of the input...

 

Cool I will use the gun I have. Would it be any good for an epoxy paint or the "proper" paint for frames?

 

When I started the wagon I had no intention of finishing the car as nice as it turned out so after sandblasting the frame I Brushed,,,yeah BRUSHED on Rustoleum red primer and brushed on a Semi Gloss finish. HRP

 

I just finished the floorboards in my 60 wagon. Used Rustoleum and it turned out great. I had been using POR 15, but this was much cheaper, flowed on well with a brush and foam applicator and hardened overnight. For around $25 at Menard's (midwest version of Lowe's or Home Depot) I got a qt of rusty metal primer, a quart of gloss color and a pint of rust converter (basically Phospheric acid). I had patched the bad spots in the floor board, used a couple of aftermarket back seat floor pans and wire wheeled the solid but surface rusty spots. Brushed on the rust converter, let it work over night. Next day brushed on a coat of the red primer. Next night gave it a second coat of primer. The few brush marks that were visable from the first coat disappeared. Third night bushed on a coat of Rustoleum gloss color (Menards carried about a dozen different colors and they will mix any color on their color chart). I wasn't quite satisfied with the coverage of the color, so I used a disposable foam brush for the second coat of color. Excellent rusults. So, for under $30, including paint and disposable brushes and foam pads I did the whole floor boars in a wagon and I have over 1/2 of the paint and rust converter left.

Like "Hotrodprimer" , I wouldn't hesitate to use this method ,and paint, on a frame and I would brush it on. Given the cost of thinner for the paint, the time to clean the gun, assuming you have one that will spray it, and the possibility of overspray or time to make sure nothing gets the overspray, the brush technique is way more time and cost effective.

 

I'm gonna go pick up 2 more cans now, rattle cans! The whole truck!!! And GLOSS Black!!! I'm going Traditional.

 

Brush job for my budget build, including under the floor

 

HOTRODPRIMER,

That looks great! I would have sand blasted it but I live in the city with too many regulations and whinie bitchy neighbors so that's out of the question. I have used a wire wheel on the whole frame and its coming out descent. I was going to use the spray gone but I don't have one of those "moisture catchers" inline and not sure how it all assembles.

 

Sprayed with thinned Rustoleum and a dash of hardener.

 

Voodootwin,

That frame is nice aswell. I'm getting convinced.

 

Rustoleum doesnt get enough respect.................

 

You can get pretty nice results with rustolem as these pics show.
It's pretty tough too. Take your time with a good brush and it will look great.
Some hardner help the drying process quite a bit. And if you use the hardner you can cut and buff the areas that play peekaboo.

As far as air dryers, they sell cheap disposable ones that go right on the end of the gun. Usually orange body and filled with desiccant. Your bitchy whiney neighbors probably won't like the spay painting.

 

Satin black frame and harmered gray rustoleum rear

 

The Valspar LIC Epoxy I mentioned is catalyzed/hardened and can also be brushed instead of sprayed. If you're going to do Rustoleum, and you don't want to spray it with a gun, I'd get hardener for the Rustoleum. Rustoleum is definitely cheaper by the quart or gallon, and hardened for it can't really add that much more to the cost.

 

Satin finish, 6 years later still looking good