Wishbone mounts: Does this scare anybody?

Just wondering about this setup. Cold rolled steel weld in balls pressed in and tig welded.







Rest of the build here:

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=749610

 

Why didn't you press them in all the way to the shoulder, and weld on the back? it looks like they were welded on the front side. They should still be OK...my 2 pennies.

 

Can you bolt the ball from the back side? I think they look good but I bet you are wondeing about the stresses? & that I,dont know.

 

It all depends on the welding. If you used too much heat and undercut that shaft, it may be weak and break.

 

iT LOOKs fine

it looks good

. . . . . . . it looks OG

 

I would be concerned about stress.

This type of setup is fine for a drag link but in this configuration you are asking a lot more than what the ball system is designed to withstand,,just my 2 cents worth.HRP

 

It's not a concern, that's why he split them. It's a Bonaville car, it's not ment for stress nor articulation.

 

Should have pressed them in and welded the back side. Also, the transition from wishbone to tie rod end is not real pretty.

And if you were serious about not worrying about stress because it's just a Bonneville car....
I hope you are not on the build crew.

 

Not sure where the bonneville idea came from, this is not a race car. I was hoping to finish it and drive it out there this year but we shall see. They were too short to weld the back side. The extra space on the thin part of the shaft is clearance for the rubber seal and articulation of the joint.

I was mostly concerned with shear load breaking it off or the weld cracking. I did not undercut the shaft while welding. I had thought about another bead over the top of the first one.

I'll get some better pics up in a bit. Thanks for the input everyone.

 

If this car is being built for Bonneville then the tech team will tell the tale,, not us.

BTW,anytime someone ask for my opinion I will never say anything as ludicrous as "It's not a concern",,anything that could have a potential for failure is a concern,for both the driver of the car and people sharing the road way or the causal observer on the salt.HRP

 

isn't this similar to the way Bass did his? granted, his is more refined.. post #15, towards the bottom of the post.. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=104217

I have no opinion one way or another.

 

Leave it, it's fine. More heating & cooling cycles is bad. Makes the area brittle

Don't worry about sheer streght. The OG Model A connection at the trans is weaker, a Model A bell Housing will crack off before those.

 

NA, these are bolt-on.

"his is more refined" Sounds like an opinion to me

 

Hey, it's a roll of the dice every time we go for a ride!

 

The weld is really just holding the ball in the bracket. The front suspension (spring, axle, wheel/tires) is carrying the weight of the vehicle. This part really only sees force under braking or in a severe impact, in which case, there would be more to worry about.

 

????......Are thy pressed into a "blind" hole?
I see your concern about the thin part of the shaft below the ball, but, it would be there just the same, yes, as in that's they way they are made?

I'd like to see a pic of the back side.

 

I think they are designed to be welded from both ends in a model a steering arm. Yes, blind hole. Here is the backside before welding:

 

Hmmm......Looks like they pass all the way through to me.........."Blind hole" only has one side / entrance, etc.......

Is that not the other end of the ball stud showing there?

Too late for much of an undercut or step there, but you could still run a bead around it, for peace of mind.

 

The pictures are deceiving. The balls are pressed in to a blind sleeve. The sleeve is welded in to the cast piece. I'm more worried about the weld cracking than the sheer, but I wanted some other opinions. I had heard some of the 32-24 bolt in type balls have broken off of steering arms and got concerned.

 

Noted.

 

Thanks again to everyone who has chimed in on this with constructive feedback, I appreciate it. I may replace these with tie rod ends just for piece of mind. I plan to drive the shit out of this car and I like to sleep at night.

 

Not the look you're going for but you could drill the insert out & use it for hiem ends

 

If you want to keep the '28-34 tie rod ends, why not fix a threaded and tapered ball stud into a bracket under the frame (same end goal....maybe just a better and serviceable method too).