Thanks guys. No longer a problem getting a tire/wheel off my car ('52 T&C)

I planned to take the front wheels off my '52 T&C last night. Loosened the left front lugs, jacked up the car and then removed the lugs. When I went to yank the tire and wheel off the car, it wouldn't come off. I'm guessing it is rusted to something as this sat outside for who knows how long before I got it.

What are my best bets in getting this to come off? Can I spray something in the holes where the lugs were....beat it with a mallet? I'm all ears.

 

Most likely the wheel is rusted on the hub or just stuck on the hub as they are hub centric wheels I am pretty sure.

A bit of PB blaster sprayed where the hub/wheel contact and then a good lick with a BFH on the back side of the rim/tire to knock it loose. Some of them really get stuck so it might take some effort.

 

Sounds like you got hold of a 'fighter'.

The wheel will come off, but sometimes they need persuading. Just as you mentioned, a few solid hits with a sledge from both sides while spinning the wheel should get it loose. Maybe it will take some lube, maybe some heat, but the only thing holding the wheel on is/was lug nuts (or bolts) so it should come right off. There may also be small dowel pins that locate the wheels on Mopars of that era. They are located right around the lug holes, so make sure there's not some crust in there keeping the wheel from coming off.

PS - WYLD STALLYNS

 

Sounds like rust may well be the culprit.
Were it me, I would try putting a piece of 2x4 or similar across the
back side of the tire/rim and use a hammer. Use the wood if you
don't want to damage the rim. If you don't care, you can just bang
on the rim. Don't know that any liquid would do enough good to help.

I presume you do know about the left hand and right hand threads
of the lug bolts.

 

If you can drive the car, put the lug nuts or bolts back in but not tight. Drive back and forth a bit and the wheel should come loose.

 

Thanks a lot, guys. I just learned about the odd L side lugs last fall after trying unsuccessfully to remove them last summer....even started a thread about my Eureka moment and invited everyone to make fun of me.

I will be putting your suggestions to the test pretty soon.

WYLD STALLYNS rule, Gotgas.

 

What used to work for us when I worked in a tire shop was to kick the top of the tire a few times. Just don't put your foot thru your fender like my co-worker did!

 

i might give this a shot, first, before anything else.

 

Kick, spray with PB, repeat.

 

If you do elect to whack it from the back with a BFH, let the air out of the tire. That way the hammer won't bounce back if you miss the rim and whack the tire.

Give it a good hit, turn it 90* and hit it again. Repeat as necessary. PB Blaster or something similar around the hub will help as previously sugested.

Bob

 

Put the boot to the tire, top or bottom, is the most successful way I know. Be sure it is jacked up SOLID on stands or blocks AND NO MISTAKE ABOUT IT. If you are kicking as hard as you can you don't want the car to fall down and break your leg.

 

...and if still stuck, hit the brakes hard to stop each time you go back and forth.

 

I have used the same method as eaglebeak with sucess. It is the easiest and quickest way to free up a stuck wheel.

 

unfortunately, it's not a driver. i really appreciate all of the suggestions, guys.

 

Just went through this with my daily driver , on a gravel road , in the middle of nowhere, Didn't have a hammer ,so had to use the tire iron to beat on it with, Finally remembered I had another sissor jack in the car , I stuck the jack between the frame and wheel ,put some pressure on it banged on it a couple times ,put more pressure on it banged on it and it finally popped still had to fight it the rest of the way off, BTW it took two hours, Tim Jones

 

Time for the "BFH" tool. Good solid wacks on the inside rim from opposites sides of the circle should do it. Watch your fingers!

 

The BFH is the way to go, but if that doesn't work, grab an oxyacetylene torch and heat the wheel around the spindle.

Before anyone says anything... No, the heat is not good for anything, but it doesn't take much heat to get the wheel loose. I've had to do this a couple times now and didn't even burn the paint on the wheels.

 

Take the wheel and hub brake assy off as it is. You may have to back off the brake shoes. Once off, drop the wheel square to the ground, drum side down. If still no go, persuade with a tap on the end of the hub.

 

On my '58 that had been parked in a barn for 20 years, I used a modern sissior jack between the frame rail and the back of the rim with a 2x4 after it was on jack stands. Finally came off with a loud 'pop' when it broke free. Be sure to put a light coat of grease on the drum/wheel/hub when you go back together.

The BFH has been very usefull, I've even used the 'Keyless Entry' (sledge hammer) for these.

 

liberal application of BFH---heat usually helps...

 

Penetrating oil can't hurt if you have time to let it sit for a day or two. Some work better than others. Mix ATF and acetone or find Kroil or K&W Knocker loose.

 

Gotta disagree with this. air up the tire good and hard, whack the tire not the wheel hard with the BFH outside or inside, it will bounce back but it is controllable and you won't damage your wheel.

Of course if it won't hold air, beat on the wheel.

 

Here's what I'm dealing with. Please understand I'm a complete newbie. Do I need to do anything with the half dome pieces in the middle of the wheel or do those not matter?







Posted from the TJJ App for iPhone & iPad

 

Nope. The 'half dome' at the base is your hub, and the little one on top of it is your dust cap. You'll find your wheel bearings inside there. The hub is made as one piece with your brake drum. Just leave them alone, they aren't affecting your problem.

I see that you do have those little dowel pins. The small holes between your lug holes are where the dowel protrudes, and there is one of them on each brake drum.

Is there anyone that you can work with? I get nervous when people are new to working on cars and tackle heavy stuff alone. It can be intimidating and a little dangerous if you're not careful. Anyway, I would start taking advice from this thread (Big F'n Hammer, penetrant/lube, etc) to get that wheel off.

First thing you might try is setting the car back down with weight on the wheel. That alone might get the wheel to pop off the brake drum. If that doesn't work, jack it back up and get to work with a BFH. Hit it from the back side, then hit it from the front. Spin the wheel 90 degrees and do it all again. Maybe spray some Liquid Wrench in the lug holes and let it soak a bit, then get back to hitting the wheel. Keep doing that until it starts getting loose. Sometimes they can be a bitch.

 

The tire appears to be flat. That changes everything. If it will not hold air kicking it or hitting it with a hammer won't do anything. Don't hit the wheel with a hammer you will damage it. Get behind with a jack between the frame and wheel, use a piece of 2X6 or 2X4 between the wheel and jack, and push it off.

 

thanks for all of the advice, guys. only took 3 1/2 months but we were at a yard sale the other day and i bought a a couple of BFHs, since i really only had a LFH to begin with.

got it home, propped up a piece of 2x4 against the rim and gave it a whack......rotated and hit it again. after about 6 smacks, the LF came loose. only took a couple on the RF wheel.

probably the first time since at least 1962 that these have been off the car. my mom & dad would have been about the same age as my oldest sons (15). weird when you think about it like that.

 

One case when "get a bigger hammer" wasn't a joke...lol. Good to see the update.

 

Cool! Love your "jackstands"!

 

yah. they're pretty sturdy and even have a flat side so they definitely won't be rolling out.