Header experts need some advice on fabing me a set of lake pipe headers

I am building a 46 ford "Rudy style" pickup on a 2x4 3/16 frame that I built and I am planning on using a ford 400m that I had in a 79 Bronco that I parted out, so after selling stuff off of it the motor came out to being free (I paid 250.00 for Bronco)

I see that there is no Lake style headers for the 400 so I am going to fab up a pair in the next week or so and ordered a 10' sick of 4" for the cone but the port size of my 400 is 1.58 x 1.96 making this a 2 Barrel motor. My question is; is there tubing that size I can buy since There are other style of headers available for this engine so someone is making tubing for them or do I buy 2" tubing and modify it for my application?

The header flange I plan on using;

 

I've used a preferred tube diameter, heated and worked the tube flange ends to fit. Stick weld the back(block) side and grind 'em flat.

 

For a 351 2 bbl/400 you want to use 1 3/4" tubing. First trying to squish 2" into that flange will be a lot of work and won't look right and second that is too big of primary tube for that motor anyway.
Use the 1 3/4" and heat it slightly and then use a hammer to form it to the oval port.
This is how we make headers Everyday (well we have some forming dies, but they aren't necessary for a one off set)

 

Very good advice, I will give that a shot. Do you have any pics of the forming dies and some of the stuff you make I am interested in seeing some of your work.

 

I just finished a set on a 351 Ford with the same oval port, 1.300 X 1.960. 1 3/4" tube fit perfectly, I squeezed it in the vice and used a "bull nosed" bar to roll the top and bottom of the pipe. Using 1 3/4 tube should be a snap with your port size. Here are some pics.

 

Nice job!!!

 

Engine mount 'limits' of movement and rear of collector mounting, will either tend to, or prevent cracks over time.

 

Don't forget to weld the "diamond" in between the four pipes before you weld the collector on.

 

I agree ^ 1 3/4 for sure on that motor for street use. Its a fairly simple job to fit the tube in the oval flange.

 

Nice job. Is that a Cleavor motor?
And you really shouldn't use vice grips to torque the heads






(that last bit was a joke)

 

If you angle cut a 1-5/8 tube it will be the oval shape of the flange.
Little die grinder work and it will close up the gap.

 

I put mine on a piece of square tubing and worked it till it fit my flange.

 

Don, It is 392", Edelbrock heads, according to Smeding, it is suppose to dyno at 450 hp. I am used to using the grips on allen bolts, as they are "knurled for Vice Grip torquing", and I couldn't break the habit. Thanks for the kind words.

 

Were these examples all made in mild steel?