**In like a lion, out like a HAMB** March 2013 Banger Meet

I made the sleeve before I modified the damper. The damper bore was cut with a .001" press onto the sleeve. A key way was cut in the damper and on the sleeve so the sleeve is keyed to the damper. The sleeve I.D. was finished with a .0005" press onto the crank.

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so it is kinda like the model "A" axle shims ?

 

CDO

What keeps teh pulley from spinning on the crank bolt?

 

Faith.

Just kiding., it is keyed to the damper.


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Have you tried the fit out yet?

 

Anyone running a Wico Mag? I know it will look very cool on my B engine.

I have the choice to sell it for good money and use the funds somewhere else in the build.

Stories positive or negative are appreciated. Hard to set up? Dependable? Better for certain RPM ranges. Does it improve performance?

 

I have run a mag on the street. Biggest reason I don't now is the inability to adjust the timing while you drive the car. Despite the impulse retard for starting, once the mag is operating at idle and above, the timing on these type of mags are fixed. There in no means for manual or automatic advance.

Also, if not wired correctly, it is very easy to steal a car with a mag if you are so inclined.

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It fits the engine fine.

But it won't be going into a stock chassis, so I don't know if it will fit in a stock A .

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CrazyDaddyo,

I would be more than happy to pay you to build one for my B engine in an A chassis. If it doesn't fit, the risk would be on me.

 

The dampener on my 2 port is one of the ones made for or by Taylor Engine while Jay was running the co. I believe it is a copy of the one first built and sold by Vic King. It has a "shop built" pulley mounted to the Dampener using the 3 tapped holes in the dampener and it all lines up for the belt and it is in my RPU. I use the aftermarket 32 (B) front mount modified or split in 2 pieces that just clear the dampener. It would seem that if CDO's pulley lines up with the stock generator pulley then it would clear.

 

Axle / drive line judder. Ok here is my issue....

Roadster is OHV banger powered, 34 banger transmission, Halibrand 101 Model A rear.

Car drives all fine forwards, but after driving for a while if I stop then say try to reverse in to a parking space, I get the worlds worst driveline judder mainly from the rear end. (Seems like is the axle, jumping as I try to drive backwards)

It doesn't do it when cold.
Engine is using new front mount and float a motor mid mount.

Any ideas?
Also when in neutral it actually sounds like something is turning in the driveline (not transmission)

Car drives all fine otherwise.


Thanks
David


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clutch / clutch / pressure plate / flywheel . clutch acts like it is oil soaked . gets worse the hotter it gets ........

 

Thanks, I was wondering if it was that... Seems to leak a lot from the outlet with the split pin though.

Strange that it only does it in reverse though???


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my clutch was way worse in reverse & only slightly noticeable in 1st.
mine was so bad i was afraid it would break the tail shaft or the rear end
nose . when i took it apart the clutch disc was oily .... i hope it helps you

 

Thanks, I will drop the engine out and check.


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What brakes are you using ? Mechanical?
Is the handbrake or the trailing/back shoe dragging in reverse? Are the brakes/backing plates rotated ( maybe dragging or even hanging up in reverse).

 

They are 40 - Ford Hydraulic all rebuilt and fresh turned drums - Hmm could be the brakes though. They don't appear to be dragging after testing just now with the axle on stands. That said they could be hanging up in reverse.

She only started doing this today after driving some 20 miles,so will test a few drives out tomorrow.

That said I appear to have quite a leak from the split-pin in the oil pan so may have to pull the motor anyway!

 

I've got a mag on mine. Wico JEM. Still dialing it in. The drive rod was worn and it's making the timing jump bad. Runs like a top for a while then starts to break up. I noticed when I had the cap off and was turning the mag that there was some major slack in the rotor. I'll get it sorted out this week and let you know how it runs with a good timed mag.

 

Here's the car before I dialed in the mechanical brakes and figured out the mag problem.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A3H6x2BTctI

 

EnglishRodder: Check over your rear suspension

When going backwards you are exerting a totally different dynamic on the torque tube and radius rods

Seen this kind of judder or axle tramp with loose radius rods, also seen it with a loose ball coupler at the back of the gearbox or a flogged out front universal
Also heard of trashed rear spring shackles doing this

 

Thanks, radius rods all tight as is ball coupler - could be the universal joint though...

Had her up on jack stands to manually turn axle, seemed all ok except took quite an effort to turn both wheels from forwards motion to rearward, almost as if something was " flipping over" - so could be the universal...

Checking spring and shackles today
Thanks all

David




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Here is the new banger meet for April:

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=790471


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That happened to me too!!!