I stuck w/points on my 57 to the point of even installing an aftermarket duel point breaker plate in it. Worked fine & you could even feel the difference. I finally decided to go with an electronic setup but I didn't want a Petronics type system so I went with a Ford Duraspark system. Sure the whole thing cost more but in a pinch I can still go to a parts store & get parts.
I tried a Pertronix unit in a '28 Model A pickup I built a couple years ago. It was running an early '70's 302 with points ignition and some "streetrodder" talked me into trying it, so I installed the unit. After installation the engine would start, but not stay running. I checked everything else, then put the points back in and it roared to life and stayed running. The new Pertronix module was defective right out of the box! I will say that the dealer who sold it to me and Pertronix stood behind the product and offered to replace it, but I opted to get my money back and stay with the reliable old points ignition. Around that same time I was driving a '67 Mustang with stock 289 as a daily driver and wanted to try to go with an electronic unit. Another "streetroder" turned me on to a points eliminator made by Accel. It worked perfect, ran better, was less money and I never had an issue with it, but I kept my points and condensor in the glovebox.
All the horror stories about Pertronix and I have run them for at lest 8 years and never experienced any problem,,all 3 cars may take a crap tomorrow but I'm sold on them. HRP
I've used Pertronix on my vintage Datsuns as well as my old old Ford and Chevy units.And I like the idea of keeping the old setup as a back up.
I've got a Mallory YC310 Double Life dual point I want to run in my new 283... Mostly cuz' it looks cool... Has anybody else used a Pertronix in one of these?
Yes and No, Although they are designed for a full 12v, they do work fine with a resistor wire IF that wire is still in good condition and has not broken down over the years, which many have causing more resistance than intended. Ideally you would replace, by pass, or use a relay, but in MANY cases it works just fine with the resistor wire still in there.
we have sold Thousands of kits to replace the points in Old Mallory YL and YC dual point distributors. They work quite well
I'm a traditionalist... points stay in everything of mine that came with points. Makes for simple troubleshooting, and nothing I drive with points needs to be above 4500 rpm... You can install pertronix, then carry the points and condenser in the glove box and return them to use in just a few minutes - Having installed a hundred or more mostly in MGs and Triumphs for customers and car club members, I've never had one returned because it quit, or degraded in any way. Only time I've ever seen one go bad is when an external force (be it errant electricity or a pry tool) is applied where it shouldn't be,,,,
Use a relay with 12 full volts from battery to the hot side of the coil if needed. The pertronix will crap out on you if you don't get it full 12Vs. Measure volts at coil to double check. Burned 2 of em up. And don't ever leave the key on, that doesn't help keep them good running either.
Broke down south of Dallas........ Became a believer years ago while running a hopped-up HEI in my dirt modified. It performed as good or better than the mags that all the other guys were running. Started out with points in my Studebaker, but quickly switched to Pertronix. On a trip heading south out of Dallas I did start to loose cylinders and limped back to my dad's shop on 4 cylinders. Knowing that the electronics either work or they don't.... I chased everything but the Pertronix. Well, all or nothing isn't 100%. After replacing the Pertronix and solving the problem, I gave them a call.... turns out I'm one in a million....... they can fail partially. They apologized and sent me a replacement ( which I carry in the glove box ). 6 years later and still running strong..... I'm still a believer.
No they don't crap out from not having a full 12v. They work fine down to 7-8 volts and will fire lower than that, but that can start to cause issues. They do produce better spark energy with a full 12v, but 8-10 is not an issue at all. Voltage spikes and bad grounds are the #1 failure issue. The leaving the key on issue, as I mentioned above is only an issue with the original Ignitor, not the Ignitor II or III
How do they work with old sun tach transmitters. I have a green line tach and eb9 transmitter in my '50 Chevy Sedan Delivery and am running the stock ignition on the 401 Nailhead. I have considered using Pertronics but dont want to waste my money if it wont work with the tach.
This makes me think about 1974. all us old timers were sooo scared of the new HEI. The world was coming to an end. I bought a new Chevy P/U in 76 (first year for the trucks) and was told to carry a module in the glove box. We were so used to looking at a part to see what was wrong. Can't look at a module and tell if it is working. My only problem with them is that they are so F'n ugly. But I must say that they have been bullet proof over the years.
Wow, and it begins ... and the trouble being, you won't know you've crossed over until it's too late.
Hey, Don; Thanks for the reply. About what I figured. ------ Originally Posted by nrgwizard Q for Don: Would/should Ryan see any better results w/the reco'd full 12v going to the module? Reason I ask, is, because I did the same thing as Ryan, & found that running through the resistor wire, caused me starting problems, esp in winter. Full power, issue solved. TIA. Marcus... Yes and No, Although they are designed for a full 12v, they do work fine with a resistor wire IF that wire is still in good condition and has not broken down over the years, which many have causing more resistance than intended. Ideally you would replace, by pass, or use a relay, but in MANY cases it works just fine with the resistor wire still in there. ----- My resistor wire was in perfect shape, just something odd that I had noticed. . Marcus...
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