I've looked down upon electronic ignitions for years... They way I saw it is that if conventional points systems worked then, they should work just fine now. But it's more than just being a loyal soldier - there is a certain level of security in th... <BR><BR>To read the rest of this blog entry from The Jalopy Journal, click here.
Ryan,I have the Pentronix distributors in both my 32 Fords and in my 54 "Ranch Wagon". I have been sold on this "Street Rod" part for several years,,they just work and the cars run better. As it has always been,,hot rodders use newer parts that will aide in performance. Welcome to the darkside! HRP
I use Pertronix in everything. I was raised on MSD, so no points and condensers for this guy... They run great everytime with no roadside adjustments and bullshit that goes along with points. It's a no brainer...!
I've never figured out why electronic ignition is considered "evil". I stuck with points and condensors right up to the point where I was tired of having a built in rev limiter on one of my street racer bugs - even with the expensive high RPM stripy points set! A switch to one of the first branded Pertronix units and I picked up several hundred more RPM and a much cleaner running engine all the way down the line. That was about 1988 or so. I've never looked back...
It's a toss up, and by you carrying the points and condenser in the tool box it's heads up. I did Pertronix conversion on a "street roddy" Nomad many years ago. It had a minor tremor to the idle. Not there after the Pertronix install. The tremor was not something that anyone would expect to be abnormal, but the fact that it was gone was a reveal. Then there's the flip side for me. I've seen many a Packard pushing close to 100K miles. 60K or more is normal, and not one of them had anything but their OEM dual points/coils. As far as smooth idle, my final test is to balance a nickel on end, WHILE THE ENGINE'S RUNNING, and be certain that it sits there when I set and time the big ol Packards. Clearly I could get this with a 'tronix conversion, but I stay n that old world mentality you eluded to at the beginning. "...if it ain't broke...", ya know? Lastly, I reckon a good conversion unit may last well over 100K miles. How many true point breakdowns would happen over the course of that many? Perhaps none given good maintenance, but "import" ignition parts don't inspire confidence either with their increasing amount of out-of-the-box failures. In the end I'd have to say you're still ok. I wouldn't tag you a street rodder just yet as nobody really knows what's under the cap. Well shit they do now, so are you eluding to a hidden desire here? Just sayin...
Dang Street Rodders! Putting non stock parts on their cars to make them run better and be more reliable!
I hear a lot of if your electronic lets you done there is nothing you can do. Well you can carry an extra control mod just like you can carry points and condensor. I have run Mallory unilite for years, I have nothing against Petronix mind you and have a bubba prepped petronix unit under my desk as we speak. I usually have a spare control mod for a mallory lieing around. I had a friend call me from No Where Kansas a few years back because his Mallory unilite let him down so I headed that way with a spare dizzy and my handy dandy spare control mod. Instead of dropping the spare dizzy I decided to take 5 minutes and swap the control mod on the side of the road. Faster than switching points and nothing to adjust. I have nothing against points ignition, and I'll run either because I have no fear of either.
This is how it starts... A little harmless electronics and you say, I can stop anytime I want. Before you know it you have an LS motor, a crybaby doll, and control arms on your fenderless model A.
I like Pertronics because they hide nice and neat inside your stock distributer, that way the traditional police won't give you any demerits..... unless you tell them......you didn't tell anyone, did you?
In many years of driving older cars with breaker point ignitions I never had a failure-meaning the engine quitting without warning. I had several instances where the points started telling me to check or replace but never a sudden stop.
I've had good luck with ignitor II on a couple of my vehicles. It provides more spark through the RPM range. Good upgrade.
The first rule about T5's and electronic ignition is we don't talk about T5's and electronic ignition
i've been considering pertronix for my wagon. but(knock on wood) the points have been trouble free so far. sounds like a win though, may have to get a unit for the wagon.
Bingo,,I am a full fledged car carrying member,,I one a Billet Pertronix and that's whats on the boss lady's wagon! HRP
Ryan, did you have to replace the resistor wire [to POINTdistributor],or the inline ceramic one? dont know which a RIV HAD...
I can't stand modern electronic distributors. this one came with the 352 when I bought it. I sold it and the Edelbrock carb...brand new and never started. I sold them and replaced them with more period stuff. The old Mallory is converted to Chrysler electronic ign. which I'm sure I can get parts for on the road. I love the way it starts instantly. My biggest reason is looks. If I had to use a modern electronic aluminum dist. I'd have to paint it cast iron gray.
I like electronic ignitions. Yes, I know how to install and adjust points, but my personal preference is electronic ignition systems. On my GM HEIs, I carry a spare module. On my Mopar vehicles, I carry a spare control box. Too easy. Same thing as having a spare set of points and condensor. I've only run one Pertronix unit, and was very impressed with the simplicity and performance of it.
The Riv has a resistor wire... and I did not replace it. It runs fine with 8 volts to the coil, so I didn't bother.
I actually noticed better gas mileage after installing pertronix in a '58 T-bird I used to have. Started up quick, and idled great. I also added their 40K coil.
I've used many a OEM electronic and never had a problem. The one time I installed a Pertronix (original version) on a Corvair engine it lasted about a week. When I left the ignition on, without running the engine, it fried the module. So, I switched back to points and didn't look back. Steve
That can be a problem with the Original Ignitor - it can also blow a coil to bits when done with a points ignition, ask me how I know. The Ignitor II (and III) have a Microporcessor (something that wasn't invented yet when the Ignitor came out) that shuts off the system if the key is left on with out starting the car.