I got an old Holley intake for a sbc that I want to save/use. Has the winters W on it and says dominator. Im thinking its kinda old. Its got a allenhead plug in one of the front water outlets. Ive tried getting it out, but it wont budge. Im afraid of breaking the aluminum. Any tips or tricks to getting the plug out would be appreciated..Thanks
I was able to do this by using a #1 tip on an acetylene torch and carefully heating the center of the pipe plug, but you do not want to overheat the plug.
Winters foundry used a snowflake not a W for their logo. If it says Dominator it sure ain't a Winters.
This ans a little cocacola ( the real stuff) it will eat the corrosion away. When it starts to come loose don't just haul it out working is back and forth bit my bit. Sometimes it helps to have the intake held frmly in place like bolted to an engine help in place.
Could that W stand for Weiand ? I know they usually spell it out on their intakes, but maybe not on this version. Don
Holley used winters to cast some manifolds - I had a "zora duntov" edition street dominator that was basically a single plan with a divider cast in and a crossover around the back - it had the winters (snowflake) logo and the firing order on the runners...
Isnt this the winters W logo? The allen head is bad. Ill try the heat again. Only paid $35 for the intake at a yard sale.
Seems like the Winters mark. It looks like you have enough of that plug sticking out to use a pair of Vise-Grips on it. You can also try to hammer in a Torx bit into the hole. That works at times as well.
Might be easier to take a 5/8" or 3/4" bolt, grind down the sides to fit where the allen wrench was stripped out and weld that in the plug. Not sure how you'd weld a nut on there. If you're concerned about grounding through the aluminum, you could attach your ground clamp to the bolt. Then you'd have plenty to grab hold of... Either way, the heat will help loosen things up. As Porknbeaner said, work it back and forth.
If all else fails, centerpunch the plug and carefully drill it out. Start with a small bit in the center and swap out to increasingly larger drill bits till you are close to the outside diameter. It takes time and patience. I've done it and actually picked the seized part's threads out of the hole.
Or you can drill it most of the way out then take a hacksaw blade and cut a slice on the inside then collapse it in on itself. I have done tons of broken off plumbing pieces that way.
I agree with the "drill it out" guys. I did it once and it worked perfect. With the hex in the center of the plug, it should act as self centering for a drill bit slightly larger than the flats on the hex. then work your way up with bits until you just kiss the threads of the manifold. At that point I was able to "pick" the threads clean.
After carefully protecting the manifold, I'd cut a whole in an old glove and fill the Allen whole with weld. Then weld a nut on the plug. It will probably come out by fingers after it cools.
It is very likely that when removed it will pull the threads out with the plug. You would be best to drill it out and cut as advised. That almost looks like a SS plug and SS and Alu. don't like to be together unless antisieze is used.
heat and touch the thread area with candle wax as it cools why.... i see it now its all F#C&E%up... and need a new one Diego, el cajon, orange county?
Drill it out. Even better if you have a left hand tap size drill as it will heat up from drilling and when the drill catches it should back right out. Regards Greg Hornbostel
I've used all the methods above. In your situation, I would combine the heat and drill methods. Drill a hole all the way through the plug. Use a drill the same size as the hex to keep it centered. Then, heat the remaining plug to a dull cherry red. pull the torch away and let it cool until you can comfortably hold your hand on it. Repeat twice. After the third time you can add the bee's wax. Then unscrew the plug. You CAN use an 'Easy Out' but the welded on nut or vise grips will work better. When I taught Autoshop, we called this the 'three heat method'. The heating and cooling of the plug will cause the bond (rust, corrosion, or whatever, to give up. P.S. You can substitute an arc welder for the torch if the flame is a problem. They make electric coil heaters to do this but I never found them necessary.
Well I got that sumbich out! Took a while. I tried a couple different ways, but in the end, bolted it to a junk motor and drilled all the way thru the plug. Welded a grade 8 bolt and just kept heat, slight pressure and oil on it. Just needs some clean up now. Thanks again for the help. Matt
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