that sticky stuff between hood skin and the under bracing ???

You got me thinking , maybe the hood is a bit bent and causing this .
A slight over crown ( center high) along the windshield end would cause the skin to pucker up away from the bracing in that area. (2 spots - left and right identical ) But it does fit well and doesn't show this as being an obvious problem. Its an OT cowl induction good mark hood.

 

Isn't that called Smegma?

 

Don't use that spray foam insulation that expands. I ruined a good hood with that, expands too much and deforms the hood and then can't get it out.

 

I like Fusor 121, but there are lots of good stuff 3m , SEM , Norton also makes good stuff. Yes you need a gun. Norton makes a line of two part products that can be used in a regular caulking gun, but I don't know if they make NVH foam in that line.

If you bond the panel too tight it can show low/high when it heats and cools. The right NVH foam (there are several densities for different uses) You want the softer more flexible type usually called anti flutter. It's made for the modern sheet metal that is very thin and distorts even easier than old steel. It works great and is worth the cost and effort.

 

LOL...glad I got you thinking, but if I had looked at how many posts you have here, I would have just kept my mouth shut!! I'm a newbie with an ot project....just trying to learn.

 

Old cars had a strip of stuff that looks like tar paper.... I think it is tar paper.

 

Smegma & spooge is a two part - you need a special gun

 

Post count doesn't mean anything. Its post quality and yours was high quality post.
Keep'em coming around here.

The above post is not high quality

 

I dont know where you got the idea that the SEM product wont work. It absolutey will fill any gaps you have. Thats what it is made for. It stays flexible and does not sag when applying. Besides the 39977 there is also the SEM 39357 low expansion flexible foam. Both of these are designed for roof skins, door skins, and hood or trunk panels.
With heat from the engine, the 3M caulk will eventually harden and fall out.

 

First that came from one of the larger local body shop supply houses.
I walked in there looking for it, and the guy talked me out of it. Actully confused me more about the whole situation and I left with nothing.

There really is quite a bit of conflicting information out there about what to use or what the spooge is. I supposed I was just asking too many questions at that supply house got too many answers. I walked out " confuseder " than I walked in.

Second it came again from a local collision body shop who's also well known for their Buick GS restorations. Owner has a 33 willys (FAST street rod ). They recommended something completely different.

Like I said , 20 different people will have 20 different answers or a "non-answer" .
I personally have a Perfect example of " man with too many watches never knows what time it is or isn't"

 

Thanks Dave !
Just add to my confusion apparently I can't add enough on my own.
Don't tell mama that or I'll really catch hell.

 

The older stuff used Ackenpucky. Then in the late '60s they started to use Poly-Pecker instead. The Ackenpucky contained more Smegma.

 

25 mins on the phone with SEM,
Conclusion 39977 is a "cushioning " product and he said "I wouldn't use it in your application, its not going to do what you need. It will keep the skin from slapping the brace but it won't hold it to the brace especially across a 1/8 gap"


End of conversation -" I don't know of any product that we make that will help. I wish you luck "

So around it goes again

 

LORD Fusor® 121/124 flexible foam can be used for sound deadening, sealing and filling of door skins to crash bar, hood panel to supports, trunk panel to supports and gas tank filler area.

Lots more products and info on their website


http://www.lord.com/products-and-solutions/adhesives/lord-fusor-products.xml

 

This is what I use. It does exactly what I THINK you want to do.( support the skin w/o causing distortion) You DO NOT want to bond skins too tightly to inner structure. This material will bond but is flexible and will let the panel expand and contract. If your trying to "suck the hood down" and hold it down, then the hood skin is too high, or the inner structure is too low, that needs to be corrected.
I don't really know what else to tell you.
Yes you need a gun, but you then can use the wide assortment of products avalible. I'm as cheap as the next guy, but 40 -50 bucks for a tool isn't really a big deal.

 

If you'd look at a cross section of the 2 effected areas of the hood from top to bottom
19 gauge skin
0.030 - 0.050 ( guessing) gap where it seperated from the goop
1/8" + of cured original goop
The under bracing

The other 60-70 "goop" applications are stuck fine except those two. However they aren't that thick

 

Where is beaner when ya need him? This is a sticky subject and he usually has a load of info.


Posted from the TJJ App for iPhone & iPad

 

So I did get some dumdum. Packed it between the skin and brace pretty tight. Raised a good bump in the hood tight. Then I put a 5 gallon bucket of water on top of the hood and that put an even smoosh on the dumdum. Now hopefully that will hold it in place. The surface area is about 5 times original blob.
I feel its jerry rigged now and won't be able to sleep for days. We'll see what happens tomorrow when I take the buckets off.


Well this didnt work for shit !!!

Unless I get a better idea in a dream soon, I'm gonna bash it with a 2lb hammer and pave it over with duraglass .

 

He is wrong. He obviously didnt attend the same SEM training classes that I did.

 

I'll try the 39977 on Monday.
I'll owe you a big one if it does the trick.
Hopefully I won't need that hammer on Wednesday.

 

Ordered the SEM 39977 today.
Won't fit in the gun I have so I ordered to gun too.
$ 165.00 !!! 1/3 the cost of the hood for two Hershey kiss sized globs .
Hard to do when operating on the assumptions that the company rep is wrong about their product

Fuck me running

 

i was thinking today, how would a magnet work? like the stuff sign guys use for truck doors glued to one side.
crazy?

 

Well the SEM 39977 worked like a charm
Thanks Tom