"They" say you can't do that.

I just say "Watch Me"! Unsafe is one thing, but thinking out of the box is another. Before I started my IHC, I was told that I couldn't chop it 7 inches and channel it 5, and make it look correct. It took alot of cutting in other areas, but I think it looks pretty awesome now. Getting everything to fit in it now, has proven alot harder, but it will be one bad ride when it is done.

 

your right Matt, I am 60 years old, I am 6'2" tall and weight 260
My 1946 Ford p/u is chopped 6" and channeled 6"....It is very comfortable to drive, yea, I have to lean over to see some stop lights.....every one that has sat in it has commented on how much room there is......
except my son doesn't like the chop so our '47 is only getting a 4" chop, and 6" channel....

 

i will just take a couple of your points--but first off most of us are speaking from experience ---every farm boy years ago can tell you why driving a pickup truck with welded spyders is great on a mud road and why it sucks on a curvy paved one --myself i can tell how a dirt car will plow for the fence if you can't break the tires loose in a corner on a muddy track---three dueces on my 348 i melted the back carb in an engine fire --relaced it with a plain two barrell never could get it running right -bad idle crappy throttle response --flooding problems--replaced it with the proper carb ran fine---thread here on the hamb that says most stuck throttles on multi carb setups are the result of having carbs with the wrong blades on the ends---should you do these things---my experience says no --can you---- hey people work under cars all the time with out jackstands---so is that going to work out in the long run.......rodders have proven for years anything can be done also proved what should not be done---motor mounts i have never run solids on the street so no advice

 

If I had listened to "they", I'd be into something cheap and slow. I listen to my inner voice and do research to confirm it's not bull shitting me. Works everytime.

 

lol and a hug!

 

Word. Put your thing down and be happy about it. f the others, isn't that why were here?

 

The one that gets me is every time some one asks about a 283 SBC, the first thing that gets brought out is you can't run 2.02 heads on that block. The usual reason is the valves will hit the cylinder walls. I guess the pair of them thats been on my 283 for twenty years haven't heard the news. Oh yeah and it do run!

 

My dad put a 98 Olds engine in a Diamond T with the manual truck trans. He credits my mom in helping him do it. She said "you can't do that" so he proved her wrong.

 

Comes down to,it works for you good,but I know a better way thing

 

I had solid mounts in a 70 Chevelle with a stout 383 stroker sbc in 1996. I thought they were great..

And I agree, Matts truck is a Fkn rolling piece of badass art...

And hes pretty dreamy for a 37yr old skinny fella....

 

" they " say we shouldn't be talking about them behind "their" back lol
They also said hotroders are hooligans! Sometimes they're right

 

I have never listened to THEM. Back in the early 80s I told my machinist to cut down some Chevy 2.02 valves for my Ford heads. He told me he couldn't do that. I asked him why not? He thought for a minute and then said "Well I guess I could do that for you"
It's what Hot Rodding is all about. Thinking out of the box.

 

Wiring harness must be purchased because "THEY' said one couldn't be transplanted from a donor vehicle into a hot rod. What THEY meant to say was that THEY lacked the smarts to do it.

Ls1 swap harness must be purchased because "THEY" said its to difficult and complicated to modify the original. What they meant to say was that they lacked the smarts to do it.

They told me I'd never pass E check with a high flow converter.

They told me Dyna controls would not work on a shovel head.

They told me I couldn't repair a plastic intake and needed to buy a new one @400.00.


The same "THEY" also said the world was flat.

 

Ls1 swap harness must be purchased because "THEY" said its to difficult and complicated to modify the original. What they meant to say was that they lacked the smarts to do it.


I did just that. It was hard work but "they" were amazed when it was done!
I also used a 2005 4.0 Jeep engine in my Willys and "they" said I had to toss the good fuel injection and use the early less efficient one because no one makes a compatible crank position sensor. So I drilled the bellhousing myself just to prove "them" wrong!

 

I know what you mean....I had installed 2 clutches in my 57 BelAir during high school before a couple adults told me I couldn't install a clutch without an alignment tool or I would never get the transmission back in. Funny though...since they told me that I've never been able to do it again.

 

I've heard this BS too. All though I've been through one solid roller all ready. I've done the hard tail bike thing too. Your back might be messed up but you looked damn cool doing it!

Good point, like I said earlier it a lot of boils down to what you can put up with. A spool is annoying to you and doesn't bother me.

I always listen to what anyone has to say, especially if I know they have the experience to back it up.

Agreed when I hear that it always makes me want to try harder to make it work. What's the worse that could happen you fail and but learn something new.

Thats a great idea.

 

Good point close this thread now before THEY find me.

What's funny is he never thought about until you told him. So him automatic response was no. That is what hot rodding is.

I'm sure it was a pain in the ass to build your own harness but in the end I'm sure you learned a lot. Also if you have a problem I'm sure it'll be easier to fix because you'll have better understanding how it all works.

 

They said, No:

Slicks on the street- I have logged several thousand miles with slicks, Have never loss control on wet roads or got a flat. (or a ticket!)

Lenco on the street- I love my Lenco, No I can't use my cell phone when I'm driving cause I'm always shifting, But I enjoy shifting

Huge Mechanical Roller Cam- No issues there either, just got to know when to wack he gas to clean her out.

Huge overdriven blowers- My engine stays cool and I wouldn't trade it or for anything

Magneto- Ive had them in 2 street cars and loved them, I have NEVER fouled plugs and the cars seem to light right up when starting.

4:56 Gears- But I can't hear my radio.. I didn't build the car to listen to a radio!

I guess it's all a tolerance factor. The things that make my Hotrod not so practical to drive on the street are the reason I built it. If I wanted to drive something cross country I would have kept my Cadillac, If I want to run around town to scare children & mothers I hop in the Hotord!

 

I would like to comment on your issue number 4 (multiple carbs).

First, I would like to say making general statements with the words always and never are probably going to be incorrect part of the time.

Now, to the multiple carbs:

The biggest reason for using end carbs with thicker throttle plates (the thickness of the base doesn't matter) on progressive setups is idle quality. The throttle plates on a single two-barrel are generally not operating in a fully closed position; as there must be some air going past the throttle plates for an idle with good idle quality. Thus these carbs do not have to form a great seal.

Older carburetors (Stromberg EE-1's, and Holley AA-1's) have very small (comparitively) throttle bores, and thick throttle plates. Multiple carb units using these carbs as a basis can get away with the standard throttle plates.

As carb throttle bores got larger, and carburetors became engineered for more efficiency, the carburetor throttle plates became thinner (compare the thickness of a Stromberg EE-1 plate to one of a mid-1960's Rochester 2G). Trying to get a good seal (for good idle quality) with the thinner plates GENERALLY results in either (1) not being able to acquire a good seal with resultant idle issues or (2) jamming the throttle plate into the throttle body so tightly that when the engine is warm, the plate sticks in the throttle body and will not open.

As to blocking the idle circuits, SOME (not all) newer carbs have air bleeds and bypasses that can cause leaks (again, idle quality) even with the idle mixture control screws turned completely off.

So, to sum the above:

Is it possible to get decent results with normal carbs on a multiple carb setup? A qualified yes, depending on which carbs are used.

Is it easier, and possibly less expensive to use the special carbs? Easier? Yes! Less expensive? Depends on the value you place on your time, and which carburetors you have under the workbench that you attempt to use, and your knowledge of carburetor tuning.

For the novice doing his/her first multiple carb setup, the special carbs are probably the way to go.

For the knowledgeable individual that delights in proving others wrong (read this in a good way, not as a slam), the normal carburetors can prove to be very enjoyable at a car show simply by reading the looks on spectators faces.

And for all out performance with multiple carburetors, I will call your six deuce setup, and raise you one dual quad

Jon.

 

i put my 1939 gmc truck together because "they" said i couldn't do it, "they" said i couldn't use front rotors from a blazer on my original hubs. "they" said i couldn't use it for work every day. "they" were wrong.
one thing "they" were right about is you can't throw out a garbage can.

 

Sail around the world (it's flat you know), Fly, Run a four minute mile, Fly solo across the Atlantic, Break the 300mph barrier in a quarter mile, Go faster than sound, Go faster than sound while still on the ground...

THEY say a lot of things and someone always go out and find a way to do what they say can't be done.

(Iknow this wasn't really the spirit of the thread) but it is what makes the human animal so damned amazing, so maybe it is.

 

Just remember,,just because you can don't mean you should! HRP

 

Well said John T, and I blame you for corrupting me from when we were kids building models in your parents basement.

Great read Carbking. This is exactly what I'm talking about. I learned a lot from reading your response. Maybe it was just dumb luck that my setup works so well.

As for the dual quad for sure it work work better, but the 6x2 does look so bad ass.

 

"They" say you can't run drum brakes and bias tires....I think, without them it's a Streetrod.

 

Sometimes "they" are stupid. Sometimes "they" are smart. You have to have enough discernment, wisdom, and knowledge to know which is the case in any given circumstance...or you could just take a chance, you might get lucky.

 

Another comment:

One gentleman posted above about running slicks on the street. I won't say don't BUT:

In an earlier life (early 1970's) before I learned the lesson of buy American, I had an off-topic import 4 cylinder that was a low 12 second in the quarter. I drove this car back and forth to work when the weather was good. At the time, AHRA (the affiliation of the semi-local track) permitted slicks in stock classes if the same tire/wheel combo was used on all 4 wheels. I used Goodyear Blue Streak Sports Car Special slicks.

After attempting to drive this thing on wet blacktop a couple of times; if a rain came up close to quitting time, I put in some overtime! No, I never lost control, but it simply was not safe. No forward traction, no side traction, no brakes!

If it was raining in the morning, I took a different vehicle.

Jon.

 

Alot of it is the misinformation that spreads from guys who don't know shit to others that are willing to listen to them. Then it's recycled over and over until people think misinformation is fact. It's like the dumb leading the blind.Hot Rodding is all about doing what "can't" or "shouldn't" be done.

 

Ahhh, right here lies the key.
Of course this should remain about hamb friendly subject matter.
The discernment, wisdom and knowledge that "YOU" have , got its start from what you were told as those skills began to develop. If unlucky the dumb "THEY" were an influence , leads to the perpetual regurgitation of nincompoopery.

 

While I agree a lot of the stuff said here, I am curious why do you run the spool intead of a good posi unit?

 

Good question, I guess a couple of reasons. First would simplicity a spool just works with really nothing to break. Second I'm going to say economics. I'm a cheap ass and if the spool does the same thing as a posi unit with minimal drawbacks, I'll go that way every time.

Plus I did ride in a friend of mines OT car with a spool before I decided to go that route. And it has a lot more motor and tire then my car.