**February is for Bangin'** Feb 2013 Banger Meet

Here is the banger link list .


For the HAMB banger newbies, here are some links to a lot of banger info:

Flat Ernie maintains the monthly link list. Every month is listed:

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=161498



Banger basics. another info link list:

http://www.fordgarage.com/

http://www.billsbangers.com

http://www.plucks329s.org/index.htm

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=251717

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...ad.php?t=42480

Post #105 of link below shows flywheel lightening dimensions
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=470853&page=6

Model B rod bearing insert numbers
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=6992484#post6992484


Engine tuning with a Vacuum gauge
http://www.centuryperformance.com/tuning-with-a-vacuum-gauge-spg-148.html

Adjusting dual Strombergs:
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=6638461#post6638461

Helpful Model A tools and tips:

http://www.maurer-markus.ch/ford_a/tipps.index.en.html

Elrod's stuck head tech:

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=218487

Model A generator to alternator conversion:

http://ejwhitneyco.com/automotive.html

Gear ratio / speed and RPM calculator:

http://www.accuautoparts.com/calculatorfin.jsp


Model A master cylinder mounting bracket ideas:

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...73#post4953173

Go here to read the 1931 edition of Harry Ricardo's book "The High Speed Internal Combustion Engine"

http://www.scribd.com/full/40610101?access_key=key-w2bcjicdancrnxypd05


Chevy Banger Stuff

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=463465

http://www.scribd.com/doc/22469332/The-High-Speed-Internal-Combustion-Engine-Ricardo-1931

Post 198 starts a great discussion of the shape of a flat head combustion chamber

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=470853&page=10

Maybe these links should be posted early in each months meeting.

If anyone knows of more, please post them.

 

Well - I was late to the party last month so the story went...

Fitted a pressure fed shelled A engine into the Tourer over Christmas.



It has to come out again because the rear seal is leaking badly. Bought it with the bottom end already assembled I took a chance on it being done correctly. Bad decision it seems.From what I gather it's the one piece seal in there. Never met 'em before as all my engines have been splashers so far. Any handy hints?

 

Thanks for the link Daddy O. This is the best part of the forum.

Has somebody tried a Roof head from Charlie Yapp?

I like Sunday modelers too.

 

right on time !

 

I've joined the banger club. I bought a late 31 Model A pickup...It should be here in a few weeks....It's all stock I definitely want to hop it up....I guess I got some reading to do.

 

Chris at Taylor engine just finished building one for a customer in Washington. I got to get a good look at the head during the build. Seems to be a quality product. They estimate the HP to be over 100. I think there are better flowing and better looking heads out there. MY $0.02.

.

 

Has anyone made a crankcase vernt to help solve to rear seal leak?

 

Pop put a PCV valve on his and it seemed to work real well.

.

 

I will be useing a two piece Rutherford cast Sump when the overhead goes on it has provision for plenty of breathers I am hopeing this will help.

 

Well, I'll be moving in a few weeks, and that means the time to start digging into my Tub's Banger is getting close...

I got a "B" police head that has some pitting on the bottom mating surface. Looks like its already had a skim on the surface. Anyone know how much I can take off without getting into clearence problems? And where to measure from to figure how much has already been taken off?

 

Sounds like a good plan, do one thing a day and it will be built before you know it, that was my approach to my rpu.

 

I scored a complete rolling A chassis a couple of weekends ago

It was a driveable US import 29 Coupe that the guy removed the body to put on a rodded chassis

So I got the rolling, reportedly driveable chassis

Looks to be a late 29

Missing the shocks, levers and dog bones up front
Missing the levers and dogbones at the rear
Missing the three handbrake rods

Apart from that, it's pretty complete and in good overall shape. Even has a good cloth covered wiring harness that is all there and the guy labeled most of them as he disconnected stuff !

The only other banger litterate guy I know of arround here is going to come over for a firing up ceremony ............ he says I will need a plank of wood, a couple of straps and a kitchen chair ......so I'm guesing the ceremony also tests the gearbox, diff and brakes

I have dragged all my rusty 27 open car bits out of the storage shed and done an audit.
I think I can piece together a 27 Roadster, but LOTS of rust repairs are required on the bun panels and rear quarters

Initially I will leave the chassis bone stock, other than a 6v low pressure fuel pump and a regulator

Later I can start slipping on some bits I have here, such as a 101 QC, T5, Thomas head, magneto, 40 brakes, dropped axle etc

Or maybe I will just drag out a spare set of rails and crossmembers I have and build a second rolling chassis ..... seems a shame to strip a complete roller

 

Mark with what you have you are more than halfdone mate sounds like a real good start will be similar to my RP

 

"I got a "B" police head that has some pitting on the bottom mating surface. Looks like its already had a skim on the surface. Anyone know how much I can take off without getting into clearence problems? And where to measure from to figure how much has already been taken off?"

Check the clearence problem with donuts

 

Well first casting was a fail. The seal was too far inboard. Today I made a new casting with more " meat" and I am sure it will work fine. Made 3 JIC

Do other people do stuff like this or just buy things? I kinda wonder , some of my friends look at me kinda weird, like why do you do these things? Just go buy it...

Doesn't seem to be much interest here so either everyone does this sort of stuff and its boring or you all saying, whats wrong with that guy...

I'd post the rest sucess ( I hope ) or fails if there is any interest. Else well,,,
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Lazlo,

Take it from me, I enjoy seeing others make stuff. It is always amazing to me how many different ways it can be done. Not everyone has the knowledge or resources to make things. I made some on the mill out of plate stock last year and can't find them in the shop......

As we speak, I have the mill squaring up some blocks for main caps and cam supports.

I wouldn't worry about offending anyone, if they don't like it, they don't have to look.

John

 

Just joined being a Banger owner!

28 A with Miller Head with 1.8" Inlet and Exh valves, bored +60, Cross drilled C-crank, insert bearings, Modified Chev 235 oil pump, Magneto, Brierly 280V cam, twin strombergs on unnamed inlet, 4" header

Very impressed with her power and speed

 

Thats sweet... you have good taste. Cheers!

 

Hey HR Phil.

Mine had a bad rear main leak before i swapped the motor, found the drip tube for the rear main fell off, I used green loctite to put it backon and had no troubles...well aside from a snapped crank but that I believe was unrelated.

Might want to look at that. Not too hard to drop the pan and have a look see.

Cheers!

Laz

 

On another topic, I have a old Riley OHV head, it has felt pads over the rocker arms and I assume they are to be oiled regularly, Anyone know about runing these heads or possible getting them oiled from the motor?
I'm running or gonna run, did run ( until the crank snapped) a old Cragar head on my B with the oil seal thing in another posting, but like the look of the Riley alot more. Any experience here to share?

Cheers!

Laz.

 

Lazio

I make as much as I can when building an engine--so I'm always interested in seeing what others do.

Some of the stuff here is fantastic--one poster made a head for a banger from billet aluminum on a manual (NO CNC) mill!

Herb

 

lazio , you would like my motor ! built by a friend who has many bonneville records .
jimski .... took .060 off my snyder 5.5 head with no problems .......... steve

 

Some one, some say Geo Riley, said "If you want to race run a Cragar, if you want to win run a Riley!"
When I bought my Riley 2 port it had a broken rocker arm stand. Jay Steele reworked the valves and replaced the stands with some from C Yapp which were designed for pressure lubrication, he them drilled and tapped the head for the oil lines as you can see in photo. The original covers had clearance problems as C Yapp stands are taller. Removed some material with rotary files and made thicker gaskets.
I have a 4 port Riley that didn't have pressure to the rockers and the buyer wasn't told. The engine came from a sprint car and had dual springs on the valves so the rocker arms were ruined after a short time. I think you were supposed to oil the felts every 500 miles or so. Or before every race.

 

We, my son and I, have been running some tests on the B distributor and have decided to use the springs as supplied with the weight kit from FS. The FS weight kit installed will give you 34 degrees advance as advertised. Stock weights with the FS springs will give you the same total advance as Ford service bulletins indicate, 15 degrees, but with the FS springs, which are wound with .018 wire, as compared to stock which are .035 (we have some stock wound from .031 wire) the advance starts much earlier

FS weights have the slot cut longer giving more travel or more advance. With the stock weights and FS springs the advance is all in by 1800. Which in our case was 24 degrees with our static at 9. You could control your total advance by lengthening the slots. We tried all of the different springs (3 ) in the Mr.Gasket timing kit and no results but we didn't run the engine over 2 grand as we were looking for a full advance by that RPM.

In the B distributor in my Winfield flathead I opened the slots to a point where the weights would just clear the inside of the housing and found some light springs and it had 20 degrees advance at 1100 RPMs so I left it and we went racing I have no idea what the total advance is on that distributor but it seemed to work well while the engine lasted.

We did not find the progressive advance operation as shown in the 1933 Ford service bulletin. I think that the advance shown for the 4 cylinder is just theoretical.

 

Last month I asked about the size of radii you guys recommend on crank journals. No opinions or is it me?

 

If you know what you want done go ask a crank grinder. I always specify 3/32" but don't always get that much. I'm speaking of stroker cranks. B's ground down to A's. We don't know what you are building and how much you can spend. You could have the journals welded up and put a bunch on. The critical thing is the finish, cracks usually start at a line or surface scratch in the finish.

 

I thought somebody answered your question.

 

Thanks. Every time a broken crank is shown someone says the radius wasn't big enough. Just wondered what is considered big.

 

Did a bit on the 27 Roadster body today

Pulled the firewall out of an Aussie RHD cowl and fitted a US LHD firewall. Had too rework things a bit, but a pretty good fit for bits made half a world apart

Made a set of front floor sub rails from mid door forward
The roadster floor frame was amputated just in front of the seat
I used the rear section of a spare tudor floor frame, but it wasn't real close so I reworked it and I had to make a short section from scratch

Cowl is now mounted, doors are hinged

Repairing the seat riser is next

From there back, it is REALLY sad

 

I have a friend that grinds cranks, I asked him about radius size. He said that he would have to put a larger radius on his stone to do a larger than "normal" radius. Takes him more time and uses up the stone faster, hence a costly thing. Alot of the larger cranks on tractors etc. have a large radius.