Hello all and Happy new Year. I finally got my 50 Chev ragtop back on the road after 17 years. The 216 engine had a crack from front to back just above the pan. I found a 235 from a 1958 Viking series truck. The engine runs great and just love all the extra horsepower. The swap went real well with no real major problems apart from front motor mounts are different, waterpump, and a few other things like the transmission had to be changed to the one from the 216. Now I would like to put split manifolds on and was wondering if anyone has had experience with Tom Langdon's (Williams) cast headers and or the headers from Patrick's (Fenton) Is there any fit problems or anything I should watch out for. I also would like to put a better carb on as mine weeps a bit and it was the one from the 216. Also does anyone have experience with HEI distributors. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Bruce
Bruce, I used Tom from Langdons cast 235 manifolds, mini HEI and his 2bbl carb set up ( that he cant' find anymore of and mines for sale and couldn't have been happier. The combo really woke up the 235. Mini HEI looks traditional and fires as soon as you touched the key. I played with the exhaust several times , length, packs, muffs, straight, split to the corners, run them close together etc and it sounded great. I would do the same thing on my next 235. I just did a 250 and used Tom's cast headers also. Never leaks, always fits, looks great.
I have the Fenton headers and the Fenton dual intake and they both are great. Am running Pertronics and have had no problems.
I have the Fentons on my 37 p/u but trying to find a 53/54 Corvette exhaust manifold for a more original look.
I'm running Fenton's that I got from Patrick several years ago. The only problem I had was that the mounting flanges were not the same thickness as my stock intake so the mounting "clips" were a little wonky. I ground down the clips that were cockeyed and now they look good. Never had any leaks with them. I also have one of Langdon's mini-HEI units. Been on there for several years as well with no problems whatsoever. There are some do-it-yourself articles I've seen (probably on the HAMB somewhere) where they show how to modify a stock S-10 (I think) distributor for use on a 235. You mentioned your engine came off a Viking series truck. Did you run you casting numbers and serial number carefully? Reason I ask is because a lot of the Viking trucks were equipped with the 261 engine, which most would say is a better engine than the 235.
You can modify a 250 6 cyl distributor in a 235. You can read about it here http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/hei_conversion.htm I bought a new distributor off ebay to try mine with and picked up a split collar from mcmaster carr.
Thanks for the info, I had heard that about the fentons, I wonder about the williams. This is what a friend was able to glean from the serial nos. The block was cast on June 12, 1958. The machined area behind the distributor was stamped at the Flint plant June 16th, the JC indicates it is a Thriftmaster 235 with 3 speed transmision Heavy Duty Clutch in a 1958 4000 series "Viking" medium duty Truck, rated at 145 h.p. Bruce
Thanks Newfisher So what exactly do you have for sale is it just the intake and carbs or the whole set-up. Bruce
Bruce, The Langdon HEI is about the single best thing I did to my 235. Easy install, never have to fuss with points again, you won't regret it. The Fenton Headers from Patrick's probably require "porting" i.e. lining up the holes in the headers with the holes in your cylinder head, mine did. Suppose it depends on the head casting. Langdon's headers "apparently" fit better in this regard, but that's only what I've heard, not seen.
I think Tom still has tons of those Carter-Weber 2bbl carbs, sells 'em in sets of two for $180. I put a set on the 235 in my Panel and didn't notice a huge difference from the two 1bbl Rochesters. The C-W's don't leak of course, but I also noticed I've lost my "top end" and hill-climbing power since installing the C-W's... thinking of rebuilding the Rochesters.
Seeing one of those at a swap meet priced at $1000 convinced me to machine some flanges/elbows and provide something old school to amuse an old fart welder buddy. Got him committed to do a few more this spring.
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