Brett compression test then take off the heads and check bores and valves I hate it when folks try to start a motor without checking bore for surface rust nothing wrecks a reasonable motor quicker probably more important than the state of the bearings. Rusty
Thanks RussTee! Question....doing a compression test....I assume I remove all spark plugs, insert compression gauge, then turn over by hand? Can you recommend where to pick up a compression "gauge"?
Buy an adapter to 14mm plugs then buy a compression guage at your local Vatozone. http://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/modelaparts/sparkplugs
Put the motor on a stand abd either use the starter or get someone to crank it over with even cranks starter is best remember dont crank too much until bores are checked
I have searched and searched the archives and couldn't find any answers for my set up. I have a couple of questions about setting up my 'A' engine to run a t-5. i have got the set up for mounting the T-5 to the bell housing but am unsure about the throw out bearing and the clutch disk. I am planning on having the flywheel lightened and running a V-8 clutch. What modifications do you need to make for the pilot bearing? what throw out bearing are people using and clutch disk? i have a disk that fits the transmission input shaft already. i have some photos i will post. thanks in advance.
Binger, you must be psychic. I talked to R.Hoover on Sat. and he said he just talked to your Mom. Good to see your progress.
that looks like an awesome project! i am digging the chassis work. you may want to talk to crazydaddyo on here. he has done a lot of the banger to T5 conversions.
it needs an ... american outside diameter & a metric inside . make one or you should beable to get one from where you got your kit (or search online) . t/o bearing is stock "A" , clutch disc is .. S10 .. OR T5 .. v8 pressure plate ................
Are you using the A or AA bellhousing? If you are using the A bell, then you need the extended hub clutch disk and input shaft extension that Auto Restorations sells. There phone number is 1-800-955-3139. He sells the throw out bearing adapter too. .
Speaking of clutches, While my engine is out I've decided to upgrade my set up. I've had some issues with slipping at the drag strip so I was looking for a better/ bigger pressure plate. I was using a 9" unit from the Ford tractor (same as 9" flathead V-8 but with out the swing weights) I found a guy at a local swap meet that specializes in vintage clutch and pressure plates. I asked him what was available in 9 1/2" or 10". he gave me some samples and I took them home. For the stock A/B flywheel, the 9 1/2" is the biggest that will fit with out shrinking a ring on the out side. I had been running a B flywheel that was modifies for the V-8 pressure plate. When I bought it from Hell & Highwater they said it was 42#. I never weighed it until today. It weights 49.3 #. So this past Sunday I cut my "new" flywheel. Thinking I was running a 42# flywheel I was shooting to take this one down to @ 36#. I cut it to the drawing that was published in SOSS but because I had to leave the O.D. larger for the 9 1/2" pressure plate, it ended up at 39 1/2#. Suprized that I was only 3# lighter then what I was running. I put it back in the lathe to trim some more weight. That got it down to 37 1/2# and went home. Here is the "new" flywheel: This prompted me to weigh the "old" flywheel that was 49 1/2# and not 42#. So now I will have a 12# lighter flywheel instead of the 6# difference that I was planning on. .
I had an old crank that was not good, so I cut the rear of it off just behind #4 throw. I mounted that in a 4 jaw chuck. Indicated it zero. Bolted the fly wheel to that. That way I could flip the flywheels around with out re addjusting the chuck. I found that the flywheels stayed tru within @ .0015 TIR. worked slick!!!!!! .
Sorry to spam guys, but my buddy has a Lions dual plug head for sale if any of you are interested... http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=766595
Are these Banger threads kindof like a feature and then post about banger stuff after>? I've just finished getting a '31 Roadster running with two 97's. Still need to button up the plumbing and wiring then adjust the brakes. Maybe take it for a test run up to the church and back..
The banger threads I believe are just to keep all the info condensed instead of strewn about the entire board. Basically all things related to the motor and making it run. Engine internals, carb selection, speed parts, transmission adaptors, timing, etc... I believe there's a couple non ford bangers hanging around too. Nice car. Can you post the details of your windshield if you know them (how much chop, and stanchions)? Are they cut down deluxe or are they standards? I have the lowers on mine but need to buy the rest. 30/31 stanchions are about $270. So I don't want to make a mistake when buying.
Binger- Nice work on that frame, but you better get some cross members in there or the rear end is going to do a lot of steering on it's own--and just maybe not in the direction that you want to go. Don't count the rear engine mount as a X member--it has rubber mounts, and the Ford flywheel housings are notorious for cracking. Herb
Anyone have dimensions on a three carb intake centerline to centerline? And less importantly on a two carb intake. I am in the middle of fabricating my own aluminum intake and want to keep things "standard" for the sake of premade linkages. Been busy on my project, after a few years of owning the car and letting her sit I have actually started working on her. Have the tank out for recoating, exhaust, found a head cam and lifters, still waiting on a distributor from bubbas but over all it's going good. Here are some photos. Next week I'll get going on the installing the drop axle, reversing the eyes on the front spring, t rear spring and doing the kingpin bushings. After I need to finish the intake, cam install, crank inspection, a little port work, and lighten the flywheel. Still on the fence about fenders or no fenders.
Rivet Man, your post came at an opportune time! I'm getting close to being in the same boat with my tudor. Much the same plan. I'll get you the 2-pot measurements off my Burns intake when I get home, but I can tell you they align pretty well with the intake ports. Where'd you get the cam/lifters? Do you have specs? Awesome head and nice exhaust!
not to rain on your parade , but i tried the "T" rear spring & didnt like the stance . using a "A" reversed eye with leaves out .
Yessir! If you have someone riding in the back of your Tudor though, you may get a LOT more bottom out on the frame. I've basically reduced the suspension travel but I'm in a coupe with nothing in the trunk, in a fairly well paved city and I slow down over rail road tracks, so I am usually just fine. I have a Ken Davis shock kit installed in the back to dampen the ride. I only seem to bottom out if I'm going over a speed bump faster than 15-20 mph. You may want to more seriously consider a frame kick up in a car with a back seat. Do it now before your passengers complain later!
Would reversing the eyes and shifting the leaves around be better for my application? I ask only because I just picked up a T spring for this very application.
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