Oldsmobile 324 Manual Transmission Choice

I apologize in advance if this topic has already been beat to death, yes I have searched and haven't found the answer to my question. So here goes:

I've got a 1954 Oldsmobile 2 DR 88 and I'm getting a 1956 324 with #10 heads. I want to use a manual transmission. The car is pretty much empty, will need a lot of work so I'm starting on a pretty clean slate.

Ultimately, I want to build a very capable 324 Oldsmobile, possibly turbocharged.

What options are out there in the realm of manual transmissions? I'm fairly well versed with my choices of automatics, but I want this car to be manual. I've seen a variety of bellhousing kits and understand the machine work needed to get the conversion done.

What I'm most interested in: What's the toughest 4 speed/5 speed/6 speed that I should choose with a good choice of replacement parts?

Thanks for your input,
Mitch

 

You really need to look at the back of the crankshaft to see if there is a hole for a pilot bushing. If that 56 motor was from a base model 88 with the Hydramatic or if it was a stick, then it will have the bushing. If it came from a Jetaway A/T, S88,98, it might not even have the machined hole.

Check with Ross Racing for a bell and some info.

 

I drill all the cranks for pilot bushing when building an engine(if they are not done to begin with)
Ive got bellhousings/flywheels ect....trans opitions are easy...how much power..how heavy is car 4/5 or 6 speed?

Tony

 

Do you have a steel flywheel for an early Olds / Cadillac V8? I'm looking for one for my 331 Caddy with a 176 tooth ring gear.

 

Thanks for the replies so far.

Goat Roper 2,

I haven't decided which route to take as far as gears go. Frankly, I wouldn't mind a 6 speed, maybe a Tremec T56?

However, if economics or swap flexibility dictate, would a BorgWarner T5 be a better choice?

 

There is a great very informative article in a hot rod deluxe from a few years ago about this very topic. I'm at work so I can't look for it now but ill dog when I get home of you'd like.


Posted from the TJJ App for iPhone & iPad

 

I have to look...I know ive got a couple steel 145 T.....and I also have high torque starters for the caddy's for either 145 or 176 tooth.

FYI sometimes you have to clearance inside the bell area to put a 176 wheel on the early 49-53 Caddy.Ive run into this on some of the block castings.

Tony

 

My 331 is a 54 extended-bell block and it had a 176 tooth flywheel with it's Hydro trans, so it should clear OK. I'm mainly looking for a brand new steel flywheel, not a used one. My trans adapter is a Bendtsen's, for a Muncie 4 speed, but they only sell new aluminum flywheels. A steel flywheel would work better for my 34 Chevy hot rod build.

 

The T5 will not take the torque of the 324 if you get on it. That is not to say that it would not work but it is risky if you are going to drive that Olds. IMHO a Muncie would be a better choice albeit a 4 spd!

Have you priced out the rebuild on the 324 yet?

 

Walt we have good luck with the world class T-5's......the one in my dads car is 5 years and 20,000 old on a rebuilt one.

 

Yes you should be good as far as 176 tooth then....we also manufactor new billet alum wheels with replacable steel inserts.....ours are are also drilled for multiple clutch cover patterns. FYI we also do the bellhousings for those engines.

 

Thanks for the input everyone, looks like I'll be saving my pennies and calling Ross Racing Engines soon...

 

along with those pennies save a few nickels too. then ask Ross about aluminum heads if you are serious about making some ponies

 

there is a super t-10 that is available new and will take 375 ft/lb. if that's too puny, there are guys building muncies that will take 600ft/lb and higher. hope that helps.

 

Anyway if its olds the man has got your part

 

I love my T56. You have room for one. The rear gearing would likely need attention, versus the overdrive(s) ratio(s), for optimum operation.

 

I'm doing 50 olds with a J2 and a Tremec TKO600 to handle the torque. Be careful with the Bendtsen and maybe the Ross adapters as the Bendtsen unit does not have a provision for the stock rear motor mount. On the olds it is on the Bellhousing. I bought the Bent $1200+ kit and only used the flywheel and clutch parts and tossed the bellhousing. Instead I made a 1" aluminum plate with the muncie pattern on one side and the olds hydro pattern on the other and bolted the whole thing to the hydro bell from the J2. Email me at [email protected] for photos if you like.