So what is he doing to the fill neck, and why does it need relocating? Are you trying to get it lined up with something on the hood, or making it more accesible?
I went through that similar thing, but never thought about getting one of those radiators with no fill neck. I ended up getting one from Summit that was as close as I could and then modified my sheetmetal to allow for the slightly larger radiator to fit.
Had the same problem. I got cast aluminum spacers from Richies here on the HAMB to space my Hilborn scoop and get it through the hood. I have his contact info if you want it.
No way leave the carbs under the hood! That will give it a "sleeper" look...LOL as if anyone would ever miss that thing! Looks great. Maybe you have covered this in the past but what headers are you going to run? As high as that engine sits I bet you could run a wicked set of fender well headers. Just a thought.
Nice build, I've been thinking of putting a straight axle on mine. I used Patriot fenderwell headers and they fit fine.
I like all the details also! If your build didn't have all the details it would just be like one of those TV shows with no meat in them! Of course you'd have to add some drama and bickering!
Had issues with my alternator mount and adjusting arm too! Mine was just from being a tiny little engine compartment, and the alternator has to sit inside the driver's wheelwell to even fit. The adjusting arm wouldn't clear the side panel on my hood and let the tilt frontend close. Since my engine is mounted with solid motor mounts I mounted the alternator to the engine, and the adjusting arm to the frame to allow the frontend to close. Works great, and easy to adjust without even opening the frontend!
LOL..why do those damn alternator mounts always pose a stupid problem...It was the last thing keeping me from getting mine running...and yes I repeatedly asked myself why the engine sat on my stand for months and I never mocked up the mount I planned on using even once! Not the same as your issue but I knew I couldn't fit it at the bottom and I wanted it at the top so I'd use the ole passenger side alt. mount I already had! In the long run it cost me about 2-3 days chasing parts including a new set of pulleys around town! As far as the project fighting you...You have basically hand built an entire car around a body and a frame. If nothing was fighting you along the way I'd say this was a little "edited" like the stuff you see on TV. I'll be totally psyched if my Plymouth winds up nearly as nice as yours when its done!
Hell, finding these problems and fixing them creatively is one of the most fun parts of a build in my book. If everything bolted together perfectly the first time it wouldn't be as much fun doing this sort of thing. Its kinda cool to find a problem, sit back with a cold one and a good cigar, think of possible solutions and sort it out. Its what sets us apart from the "cookiecutterboltpartson" guys.
Amen! We could be building kit cars, but what fun would they be? Hotrods are supposed to be individual reflections of what we like, and all these little changes show that!
Dude you got to use the spatter paint stuff I'm hooked on it. It looks awesome very drag racey! My dad has always used it, and now me too (its like the hotrod circle of life) I've found if you clear coat the stuff it sets up hard as a rock and its hard to beat!
Looks really clean! I cheaped out and just got out the brushes and rollers and painted the inside of the trunk with Rustoleum satin black. At least it's all one color. Wish I could have hung a fuel cell underneath, but the area was too cramped between the rails for a cell of any size. I ended up mounting mine in the trunk, along with battery box, so no room left now. I can just put a picnic chair on top of the cell and battery if I want.
Yeah, mine's a little more in your face at the rear of the car. And yes, with no back seat I have a platform behind the front seat to put the beer cooler. :
Thanks for the compliment! Looks great! And your welds look better than the ones I left everywhere! If a nut didn't clear, then the worst that could happen would be a spacer under the splitter. I do all mine with a std. 45 degree too. And letting the line determine the mounting point of the next piece is a great way to save headaches!
PS-Waiting to see what you do from carbs to splitter! I hard piped mine, and even with solid engine mounts they still cracked twice. I ended up having to put a short piece of hose inline to stop it.
Mine cracked right at the fitting where I flared it. I made up a new line and a month later it started leaking and was cracked again. I really wanted it all hard piped, just for asthetics, but couldn't. I ran the two lines to my splitter hard, and then just before the regulator I put 3" of rubber hose with clamps. That stopped the cracks finally.
I've read that alot of nostalgic drags will only allow 8" of rubber line so it sounds like you guys are on the right track. I plan on running all new on mine. I've got the line already and I've currently got about 16" of rubber in my total system because I modified what was already there. Its not like my car is a race car but I don't want any excuses to keep me off the track when the opportunity presents its self! I'm with you plumbid the filter looks good hanging like that. Maybe its just me but when I but some nice shiney bits I like to show em off! Plus its not like you have ground clearance issues...LOL!
The local tracks here are a bit less strict on nostalgia races. They loosen up the rules a bit for old time cars to run, and not have to adhere to all the latest rules. But even the regular drags allow 12" of soft line I think. I've got probably right at 12" total with the little bit in back, and the short piece up front. I don't run any of the big events, and usually just run the local 1/8 mile outlaw track.
My local track requires fire extinguishers to be removed, as they said they can get loose in a crash and hit the driver! So I had to leave mine in the Suburban when I raced. As solid as my engine is mounted, it's amazing that it still flexes a bit. I think the height of a tunnel ram intake/carbs are, it makes a tiny bit of movement down low a bit more up high.
You're planning to drive the car on the street a little right? Just follow the regular stuff that we do; since the motor moves a bit with regard to the frame add some flexible fuel line to compensate for this movement, be it rubber hose, braided hose, whatever. Period correct is cool but you gotta adjust for the real world part. Just make it safe and reliable. No disrespect intended at all but I get the feeling at this point that you can't see the forest for the trees. Patience Grasshopper, step back a bit and let it all settle out. I think Yoda said that.
I didn't read much on the previous thread but nothing I put together is exclusively for racing and usually slips by tech. I'd just do aluminum hardlines from front to rear (outside of the frame rail if possible) and use an approved black hose from the block to carbs, easy enough.
The Jalopy Journal
