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welding (bonding) white metal to steel??

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by a bomb, Nov 19, 2012.

  1. a bomb
    Joined: Dec 10, 2005
    Posts: 44

    a bomb
    Member
    from up north

    I'm looking to smooth out the front fenders of my 57 pontiac chieftan. The headlight bezel screws into the fender, i want to weld in the gap. Problem, the headlight bezel is a cast white metal(?) don't really know how else to describe it. Can't mig it to the fender, tried brazing, but the cast melts before the rod and the bronze won't stick. Used flux coated bronze braze rods, both 1/8 and 3/32. welding shop recommended Zinal rod, never heard of it and it cost $100 for a pack, anyone use this stuff and do you think it will work? Or anyone have any other ideas? I also tried the eastwood leadless body solder and that didnt stick ot the cast, stuck to the steel good but not the cast. anyone got any other ideas?
     
  2. Three Widow's Garage
    Joined: Jan 18, 2010
    Posts: 230

    Three Widow's Garage
    Member

    I dont think you will have any luck trying to weld white metal to steel, might try
    glueing with panel adhisive or JB weld and smoothing with filler.
     
  3. There's lots of zinc in that "white metal". Very low melting point. That means 2x on JB weld. I don't know of a way to fix that type of casting, and I fix A LOT of misc. crap for people.
     
  4. a bomb
    Joined: Dec 10, 2005
    Posts: 44

    a bomb
    Member
    from up north

    ya, thought about the jb weld, or some of the new body epoxy they have, I just figured theres gotta be some way to do metal to metal. Using my temp gun it seems this stuff is melting just shy of 600f, which is super low. you guys have any problems with paint over jb weld in time?
     

  5. falconsprint63
    Joined: May 17, 2007
    Posts: 2,358

    falconsprint63
    Member
    from Mayberry

    if you're concerend about paint of JB just go with one of the new epoxies. my .02
     
  6. Gotta be done with a low temp Solder.

    The melting points on steel and Pot Metal
    are way too far apart for actual welding.
     
  7. matthew mcglothin
    Joined: Mar 3, 2007
    Posts: 970

    matthew mcglothin
    Member

    3m panel bonding adhesive.. The only way to go. Part no 8115
     
  8. Gremlinguy
    Joined: Oct 29, 2009
    Posts: 505

    Gremlinguy
    Member

    Make sure you put a good mechanical scratch on both parts before panel bonding! 8115 is an awesome product, just make sure you prep good.
     
    Last edited: Nov 19, 2012
  9. ryno
    Joined: Oct 6, 2005
    Posts: 3,470

    ryno
    Member

    if this is the green 2 part,then yes. you will need a special adhesive gun to use it, but it will work.
     
  10. matthew mcglothin
    Joined: Mar 3, 2007
    Posts: 970

    matthew mcglothin
    Member

    X2! Forgot to add that. Rough up everything very well. Then clamp if possible .
     
  11. pimpin paint
    Joined: May 31, 2005
    Posts: 4,937

    pimpin paint
    Member
    from so cal

    X 2.................

    I'd go with the good old 30/70 body solder. In a pinch 50/50 would work, but does require some skill to flow it out on a vertical surface. I'd stay well away from that '' treehuggher '' 95/5 crap as its' melting point is well above the Zamac from which the headlamp doors are cast.

    If you go with JB Weld or some other putty, count on paint problems up the road:mad: The zinc expands at one rate, the putty at another & the carbon steel fender to which the headlamp door would be stuck upon the fender, yet another rate:eek: Al of this adds up to ''whitness or ghost'' lines in your paint job on hot days:(

    Grind and tin both the headlamp door, and the carbon steel fender, sweat solder the door onto the fender and be sure to add plenty of solder to the gap area between the two. File and sand (NEVER GRIND OR DA LEAD SOLDER ) and prime as necessary.


    " A government by the people, for the people " my ass !
     
  12. hemiboy
    Joined: Apr 21, 2005
    Posts: 249

    hemiboy
    Member

    Use "Fusor" metal panel adhesive. Works great- just make sure you get the one for metal. There are alot of choices!
     
  13. throw those pontiacs on ebay and sell em then get a set of steel rings and do it right.....
     
  14. a bomb
    Joined: Dec 10, 2005
    Posts: 44

    a bomb
    Member
    from up north

    Thank's I'm gonna look for this tomorrow
     
  15. a bomb
    Joined: Dec 10, 2005
    Posts: 44

    a bomb
    Member
    from up north

    this is my 2nd option, steel rings off of something else might look cool, I'm gonna do some research see what will stand out a bit.
     
  16. As pimpin paint mentioned if you plan on putting nice paint on this the seam is going to show through the paint every time it gets hot outside if you use any type of panel adhesive and body filler to do this.
     
  17. Johnny Gee
    Joined: Dec 3, 2009
    Posts: 12,687

    Johnny Gee
    Member
    from Downey, Ca

  18. Muggy weld only works with a very low current, copper vat. Otherwise it will melt away. They have to polish it without gloves, so it doesn't get hot enough to melt the MW. I haven't had any luck with it.. but I know what to do for future attempts. Whether it works or not, we will have to see.
     
  19. Johnny Gee
    Joined: Dec 3, 2009
    Posts: 12,687

    Johnny Gee
    Member
    from Downey, Ca

    Jay, no plating involved. Reread post #1. OP want's to make bezels part of the fender.
     
  20. a bomb
    Joined: Dec 10, 2005
    Posts: 44

    a bomb
    Member
    from up north

    i've seen the muggy weld stuff online, looks like it'll work
     
  21. You would heat up the fender from the back side, till the solder starts to carmelize(turn brown)..then start adding in the filler rod. Grind as necessary, once cool
     
  22. DamnYankeesKustoms
    Joined: Jan 14, 2010
    Posts: 297

    DamnYankeesKustoms
    Member

    Sili bronze, silver solder...
     
  23. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 11,462

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    It can be done with Alladin 3 in one rod.

    After the low temp soldering which it essentially is you will skin it with bondo and go from there.

    It will make a good strong bond that won't break.

    http://www.aladdin3in1.com/
     
  24. 41GASSER
    Joined: Aug 2, 2009
    Posts: 188

    41GASSER
    Member

    3M 8115 panel adhesive works good. Glue em on and then us filler to smooth. If you want it to cure crazy fast put the 8115 adhesive in the microwave, once hot glue them on and tape in place. Work fast if you heat the adhesive.

    Dave
     

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