Do friction shocks really work or are they just for looks

I just bought a t bucket. It has friction shocks on the front and coil overs in the rear. With Firestone Bias ply Tires. On the way to work today the Front axle started bouncing up-and-down really violently. I almost shit my pants!!!! So my question is should I put on regular front shocks or is it from the tires Or both???

 

Friction shocks were used on nearly everything that had shocks before modern shocks were available. If they were made right, they are adjustable. Tighten them up about 1/4 turn.

 

Friction shocks work, just use friction damping instead of hydraulic damping. However ,in your case, the damping is clearly inadequate ! Friction shocks can usually be tightened down- try that. But tube shocks are usually a better choice.

 

They work if they are set up right and serviceable.

 

My 10c ....more form than function. If you see inside one you just know that the technology of the day was in it's infancy. Sure look right on a pure trad rod though......
I'd hazard a guess that you don't have enough damping up front, bucket era rods allow for traditional tube shocks ya know.
You may have too much spring as well.....lots of dynamics to consider with you problem.

 

They work if they are not wore slap out. Most of the stuff that we have used or use works if it is in good shape. they don't work as well as a hydraulic but they work.

 

they do work, i've had them on my T since i built it.i replaced the cheapo thin rubber "disks" with 1/8" urethane & they haven't even started to wear & i have almost 68,000 miles on my car.But they do get noisey!!lol( got to loosen them & shot talc in the space) and if they were really that good, they would still have them on cars!
They're Simple & work ,And they keep the front end from looking "Heavy" or bulky.So use em.
JimV

 

Had a bucket for years, they didn't work for worth a shit until I did exactly the above also !

 

Where did you find 1/8" urethane??

dave

 

they are new dont look worn out but ill try to tighten them and try it again thanks

 

Speedway and others have been offering a cast aluminum type for years now that as shipped are not very functional. Most I have seen have no friction material in them, and no spring to control the tension. Put a longer stud in, grab a valve spring and retainer from what ever engine you have laying around for parts, and use either the urethane suggested above or a fairly thick chunk of leather as a friction medium and things will get lots better.

Here is a picture of the type I make for customer chassis. Super basic, and with the spring and friction material, quite tunable.

Might want to check the balance and roundness of those front tires too. I use the balance beads in everything.

 

Short like need louvers ? posted are the way to go. I see many that are 10 inches or more in length, and mounted inboard or back off the wishbone, not the way to do it. If they are long, or mounted as I stated, when the suspension moves, say, 2 inches the shocks have moved maybe 1/4", not much in the way of dampening is done. As with any shock as close to the wheel as you can will help them to better do their job.

It has been mentioned elsewhere here that clutch disc materal works good too.

 

They were intended to be lubricated with whale oil.

 

Was it wheel hop, like out of round? or did you hit a bump and it just continued to bounce, like no damping?

 

Hi Guys:

I am dealing w/ the same thing- hit a series of bumps and both wheels basketball in unison.

I had the shock mounted to the shackle plate at the spring side, which I think was the problem. Now I have hooked them up to the bottom of the hairpin/ batwing hole like this:



Any problems you all can see w/ this setup?

Thanks,
Dave

 

I'm not a huge fan of that long bolt and extension on the lower batwing mount. Too much length to move around and cancel out the movement of the shock itself, not to mention fatigue at a critical suspension connection point. Ideal would be a small mount welded or bolted to the back of the axle itself. That's what you are trying to control and what will have the most range of movement. Just as I was saying in my post above, if you added a second outer friction disc and backer, longer stud and spring you would have a much more control able and tunable friction shock.

Just a note, My picture above doesn't yet have it's friction materials in place in the photo.

 

Yes, they really work, however there has been a plethora of sorta bees, knock offs and home mades utilized that are of questionable value. Rubber discs???? Come on.

Check out this website and see what is available yet today of the wonderful Hartford shocks. They are spendy.

http://www.classic-car-accessories.com/andre-hartford-shock-absorber/

Note the different sizes and number of blades and friction discs for various weight cars. Note the brass discs used in conjunction with the special wood discs.

The classic 50/50 shock absorbers are a joy and a real eye catcher.

I wish I had been able to get my attachment point further outboard on the axle.

 

That's what my gut told me as well, just hate to drill my 32 axle...

But that's the right way to do it. I'll modify my shocks per your suggestion as well- thanks for the input.

Dve

 

I think that hydraulic shocks are simply better, but on some cars things like space limitations force you to have friction shocks. My Son's T Bucket has friction shocks and they were not doing much, but then we torqued the nuts down really tight and they began to work well. Every once in a while we just retorque them and the ride quality improves a lot.

Don

 

Where are you getting the better material for the friction? Mine came with rubber but was going to make leather but now curious what others have come up with. My front end was bouncing also, I tightened the friction bolt and had my front bias plys balanced again, this time I had them put weights on the both sides of the wheel and its much better but it feels like it has a slight shimmy at 75 or 80 now.

I started having problems with mine after I drove it in the rain, maybe threw a weight also?

 

I buy teflon sheets and cut the discs out myself. Have for years and the never seem to wear out.

I get the sheets from MSD Industrial. I'm sure Grainger probably carries them as well.

 

i worked at a screen printing shop & it was from a squeegie for printing.Try a plastics supply.
JimV

 

Leather would be good to use as a "disk" but i think it would dry out when it got wet.
jimv

 

Ha ha that's funny

 

like these?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-pcs-x-Tef...452?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item23243fec84

 

I buy 12" by 12" sheets, but yes, same thing.

 

These are the ones I made for my roadster..This is not a very good view ,but I use two discs of UHMW .. I made up a little bracket and used a roll-pin to keep the outer part from rotating.I use a flat-wound die spring for clamping force... I know friction dampers are not the same as a hydraulic shock absorber, but these seem to control my frt end very well...and they fit the look I was after...

 

Guess i didn't think this one out too good!!lol Dah!!
JimV

 

They have used leather for years, some use the UHMW, leather, UHMW, repeat. The two textures work good together. The very first ones were made with wood and leather, worked then as well as now.

 

Thanks I tightened them up and drove it it Didn't do it again lets hope it stays away. Omg. That was very scary I hope you never have it happen to you. But I'm still thinking about installing regular shocks.