I hope this isn't considered off topic... My shop is used for what most of yours would be... mostly wrenching but a fair share of cutting, welding and grinding. My shop is simply wooden studs and sheet metal exterior. The interior looks just like you imagine. I've alwaus been afraid of that ONE spark or spec of slag that makes a new home in one of the millions of hiding spots between the exposed studs and sheet metal. Although metal roof paneling would be the obvious safest and easiest material to line my walls, what would be a more visually pleasing material? What do you have?
metal bulding with metal beams. still plenty of places for a spark to start a fire even in a metal building.
Medal pole barn. Used the cheapest OSB paneling I could find and painted it white. Works for me as it protects the insulation. 2nd on the Garage Journal.
My garage was built when I bought the place. The owner used 5/16 OSB. He put it in the garage with no insulation, and the 24X20 shop has insulation in the walls and ceiling. When cutting, I make sure the sparks go down. When welding, they go where they want. I used oil based primer on all the walls, then oil based paint on the lower three feet, and latex on the top and ceilings. It has been fine.
My "shop" is my 2 car garage, and the inside walls are covered in peg board. I am not concerned with sparks igniting exposed wood. it takes me about 2 hours to start a fire in my fireplace, so how much harm could a few sparks do ?
Use a fire proof insulation in the stud cavity and 5/8 drywall. Just make sure its completely sealed like any other firewall ever built. (Cheapest per sq.ft too) You can use two layers of 5/8 in the areas that get heavy abuse or between a living area. You can add a layer of sheet metal to that if you want to test flame throwers. I've done quite a bit of construction and way too many of them were fire jobs. Torn out plenty of OSB Burt to a crisp but never saw a 5/8 drywalled wall burnt from the out side. Just Google "fire wall" and there's more than youll be able to read.
I used rejected garage door panels purchased through a building material recycler. About 1 1/8" foam insulation with steel on both sides, screwed to the studs & rafters with insulation between. Panels were $1/linear foot & had to buy extra to allow for cutting out damaged areas, but ended up with enough to replace both overhead doors. Not the cheapest but works for me.
My shop is a 40x40 post frame building. It had 1" foil faced foam between the tin and the wood frame. I added 1 1/2 foam between the horizontal wood. I'm putting 1/2" sheetrock on the interior walls and then painting a nearly white color. It makes it much brighter inside and should be easier to heat as well as far more fireproof then it was...
Never liked osb, it's like using kindling. Go with the fire rated drywall, it's what code requires between a garage and a living space.
Delta rib metal as used on the roof and exterior of pole buildings is about the cheapest material you can use, on the ceiling it light reflective, on the walls its clean and fireproof, in my area it cost approx 1.00 a square ft. for the material, no muss no fuss. less labor than sheetrock, no taping,no priming, no painting,you can use one color up 4 ft. and another from 4 ft. to the ceiling.looks great when done,my 2 cents
You should be able to find a crew to hang and finish drywall dirt cheap out in your neck of the woods.
1/2 inch drywall painted white over 1 inch pine boards over 10 inch insulation. both the roof and walls
5/8 drywall, insulated and vapour barrier,,as durable as tin walls on the interior might be the reverberating of a grinder would drive ya nuts..I used latex metallic blue paint from Ho depot on two walls
We did a friends shop with FRP (fiberglass reinforced plywood) seconds from a local trailer factory.It has worked out super. It is white already and reflects the light well. waterproof, you can literally spray it down with a hose, and seems to have really helped to insulate the building, I wish I had done mine this way. as I recall the sheets were around 12$ each, were 4' wide but varied from 8 to 14' long.
My girl wants to have you killed. After spending no more than ten minutes on that forum my wish list has now doubled. And so has my credit limit.
I'm having a hard time with the idea of drywall for the simple fact that I KNOW i will knick and dent it up as well as pop a hole or two in it. My OCD wont let any of those last more than 5 minutes without my full attention. I know I know... "do you want your shop to burn down or not?" I was hoping a majority would say OSB was ok but thats not the case.
they use osb and clear to build titty bars and whore houses , and when they get too disqusting 1 match will burn it to the ground ,,then they bulldose it out and build another one ,,drywall and plywood painted with latex would be safer
Like others have said, you might want to check your local building codes. When we replaced the POS garage that came with the house, I was required to put up 5/8" fire rated sheet rock along the side that is close to the house, even though there is about 5' between the two. OSB burns very hot once it does catch fire - I burned a couple of scraps in a fire pit, and it didn't take very long for the OSB to burn holes in the side screens and bake the paint off of the top.
I know a guy that lined his shop with roof tin, the shiny stuff. Looks good but he got burns down his crack from welding reflection. Just too damn funny.
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