1947 plymouth in need of words of wisdom

Well said...
But, I did just stick an S-10 frame under a 54 Dodge I'm working on with my Dad. Cheaper ($100), discs, power steering...but, tricky fab for steering to reach the S-10 box (put all new S-10 tie rods, ball joints, etc.) Re-drilled S-10 rotors to take mopar pattern...running a small block 273 / 904 trans / 8-3/4 rear /...also had to run a longer drive shaft...(made one longer than a C-body).
Which ever way ya go...mopar-in-a-mopar is my only rule...

 

Frame measurements for those that care...
http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=5304940&an=0&page=6#Post5304940

 

fgilmer; With your apparent inexperience at building, a complete chassis swap would be a very good first project for you. I agree with 6berry...........

In the process; I suggest you try to leave all brake/steering/gas tank components un-altered. You can run a fill neck, hose or steel tubing from the fill neck location on your coupe right down to the S-10 tank in it's original location.

 

PM THIS GUY.

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/member.php?u=50902

 

MOPAR big block 4 speed chopped and lowered

 

Did a 48 coupe over 23 years ago, bought a wrecked in the a$$ 74 nova, used the rearsteer subframe, rearend, wiring, steering column, power brake system complete. Drove as nice as any other car I ever drove. Body free, only needing front floors, 74 nova 25.00. Cheapest car I ever built, 327, powerglide, wish I still owned it........ They were considered ugly back then. Good thing about the rear steer subframe is the stock core support bolt's right to it with two hole's drilled. Was a few pics. in Rod Action back then. Wow how time flys!

 

We just finished a '48 Special DeLuxe.

Ford 9" rear on Drums. Mustang II front end on Discs, and a 392 Hemi.

 

666Irish, more pictures, please and details of the frame/front suspension mods.

 

I think all this input is amazing. Where else in the world would you get help from the experts to DIY anything? Just listen to those who have done it and follow through.
Mine is a Canadian '47 Dodge D25 which is pretty much the same as the P15.
I am transplanting an '85 318 with 904 Trans and the entire rear end, all from a 5th Ave. Then mounting a new Upper Shock Mount to the frame and putting new front shocks on it. I'll also do a Front Disc Brake upgrade with a new Frame Mounted Master and Booster. I have a set of 16" Wide Whites on the original steelies and will paint the wheels adding a bullet cap with a beauty ring.
Hey, maybe we'll meet on the road.
Good Luck.

 

keep it mopar s10 frame is going to be a lot of work and you can easily get a 440. look around for old motor homes most of the time they have big blocks and with very low miles on them, pull out what you want and scrap the rest. might even get it for free

 

I just picked up a 47 Special Deluxe. I am leaninf towards a 318/torqueflite swap. Do you got any links you could send me with some details on the offset and shock relocation?

 

There's a bunch of threads on this, @ least 2 of them have copys of the article from Street Rod action/Tex Smith Mopar hot rod book that covers this.

 

Missysdad. Would you mine letting me and some of the other HAMBS know where I may find any information on building one of these 1946-48 model mopars. Any information would be great. Thanks Dan
[email protected]

 

A little Firewall setback and there is room for a 440. Stock suspension if fine with a remount of the shocks and upgrade on the brakes and steering.

However, I did Dakota clip my 2nd P15 Sedan Delivery. (wanted it lower).

Here's a link to an article I wrote for Tex Smith's Mopar Hot Rod book on Disc Brakes for $100.00.

http://home.roadrunner.com/~dndrodshop/disc.htm

 

I would find a old Volarie or diplomat for a donor car all the running gear works and do the scarebird disc brake kit

 

Do not use a s-10 frame i've seen a few with this done and it does not look right. Mine has a 75 and up camaro subframe in it works just fine still would rather use a frame stub from fatmans the rest is a stock frame 9in ford rear w posies super slide springs w/home made slapper bars running high 11s in the 1/4 with a 468 big block chevy rides like a caddilac..

 

Check out butchescoolstuff.com has alot of suspension stuff for the 46-48 mopars..

 

Bingo! Look at what Shadowmtnkustomz (think that's his HAMB call sign) did with his - gutted an older Plymouth and shoehorned the Poly and rear into his coupe. He inspired my build, only I had to go wonky exotic with the '55 259 Poly and the 5 speed adaptation. Scarebird disc conversion is still in the works!

 

The stock shock position does allow full shock travel, for the stock shock. Due to the leverage action the travel is less than a conventional mount.

Back then, Chrysler Oriflow shocks were acknowledged the best in the business.They automatically stiffened up under rough road conditions and softened under smooth road conditions. So they gave a floaty ride on smooth roads which some people (including me) don't care for. But the soft floaty ride was what everyone was after back then.

 

Know a guy who was going to use an S-10 but gave up on it. My '48 has a Cutlass clip.

 

My 48 Plymouth coupe is on a Dakota chassis. Gene

 

Back in the 70s a guy in our car club installed a 289/C4 in his 48 Plymouth coupe.
the only problem was a worn out steering box. He mounted a Falcon/Mustang box in the frame offset to the left to clear the engine. Cut a slot in the frame rail , filled it with a section of 3"-4"pipe, and made up a mounting bracket. Cut the dual eyes off the Plymouth pitman arm and welded it to the Mustang pitman arm, no other mods to the chassis except proper shock mounts up front. He made up a combo driveshaft to use the original rearend with the ball and trunnion Ujoint but after a few months, pulled the rearend and used an 8" Ford and new made driveshaft.
As far as I know the car is still roaming the streets of Channelview TX.

 

Thanks I'll be looking into this!

 

Greetings! Did a Dakota subframe on a '49 Wayfairer, took tons of time and effort but you need to remember rebuilding and updating the original suspension will require tons of time, effort and just as important, money. Good Luck on your project.

 

Love my 88 Dakota front stub kit. plus shumaker perfromance at engineswaps.com makes the mount kits to go from a 4 cylinder or v6 to small block la mopar or to big blocks. everything you could need from mount kits to headers and oil pans. fit like a glove. check out my build and see.

 

I just got a 47 coupe myself. Id love to put a 440 in it. But how in the world will it fit? I have no problem cutting inner fenders and firewall. But what about that steering column? Ive been scratching my head trying to figure out how to get a small block in there.

 

Search for dndrodshop. He is one of my friends on here. He is running a 440 in a sedan. He can help ya out with what to do. He did his on a stock front suspension.

 

Please do an intro and read the rules of the forum


The small block Mopar fits without too much hassle and guys have put big blocks in these cars with the stock front end so it's not impossible. I have a 318 in my 46 Plymouth and the fit isn't bad, I did move the steering box over for more exhaust clearance though.

 

I was reading back through your build thread, but how did you move that steering box over? I'm assuming some type of notch in the frame? Do you have any pictures of the process of moving the gear box over? Did you have to change anything on your steering linkage?

 

You can go with a Rack and Pinion set up. There are kits out there like Fat Man Fabrication that uses a Chevy Cavalier rack. Then offset your engine about 1.5 inches toward the passenger side. Many of the Mopars of the 60's and 70's had the engine offset like this from the factory.