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Small block Chevy guys...what do I have?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by MrModelT, Oct 15, 2012.

  1. from looking at the Front of the Block
    in my Humble Opinnion its Not a 327 Block
    what I think it is a 350 Block

    just my 3.5 cents
     
  2. MrModelT
    Joined: Nov 11, 2008
    Posts: 2,745

    MrModelT
    Member

    I don't think the vin is present anymore. I will have to clean off the pad again, but if memory serves...there was no number....which would mean it was decked.

    I will check the other location 3wLarry showed too, to be sure.

    This gives me real good reason to pull the pan and take a look. The pics I posted are from a few years ago, so I will certainly get some more now that I know what I need to pics of..

    What else do I need to shoot pics of? What other numbers besides the crank, date code and timing cover numbers to I need to get for you guys?
     
  3. MrModelT
    Joined: Nov 11, 2008
    Posts: 2,745

    MrModelT
    Member

    ...And thank you for everyone's help thus far!
     
  4. henryj1951
    Joined: Sep 23, 2012
    Posts: 2,306

    henryj1951
    Member
    from USA

    the under the valve cover to see if it has screw in studs er not

    the back of the block to see if it has the top bell housing bolt drilled

    the date code back there by the 010 casting

    and yes the rear of the crank..

    ( my guess is its a 327 2bolt main )
    i have a69 327 somewhere in the back of the barn...( on the engine stand lol)

    and as someone else said to see the tin % the under the timing cover... 10 <-- i bet


    and carb LIST (number) front of carb

    :cool:
     
  5. 010 blocks used for both 327s and 350s and can be 2 or 4 bolt main...all 010 blocks are large journal...
     
  6. also that piston design is what was used in 70 LT1s which had a 11 to 1 compresssion ratio or so..NOT 12.5 to 1

    that 7009 may be an old number, that is no longer relavant...based on pictures alone, let me show you the differences..

    This piston designed with deeper, rounder valve reliefs is what in most cases will yield a 12.5 to 1 with a 64 cc head

    [​IMG]
     
    Deuces likes this.
  7. Your pistons are close to this design, which is in an 11 to 1 motor I just built

    [​IMG]
     
  8. depending if the block was decked, heads planed etc, that of course will affect compression, but what you have is a 1970 LT1 type design pistons that will yield 11 t 1 or so....if the heads were X heads, which people rumor have a smaller 60 cc chamber then maybe you would be at 11.25 to 1 or so...but most likely your heads would cc to a true 63 cc chamber or so.

    Also your block has the wider, longer VIN pad...which of what I understand came out in the 70s
     
  9. Here is an LT1 piston, in a Corvette

    [​IMG]
     
    Deuces likes this.
  10. henryj1951
    Joined: Sep 23, 2012
    Posts: 2,306

    henryj1951
    Member
    from USA

  11. 52 csb
    Joined: Mar 14, 2008
    Posts: 429

    52 csb
    Member

    The x heads do have the 60cc chamber and better intake runner... .02cts jim:D:D
     
  12. MrModelT
    Joined: Nov 11, 2008
    Posts: 2,745

    MrModelT
    Member

    Okay, good...I will look for all these.

    Here are a few more pics I didn't get posted yesterday....

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  13. HamD
    Joined: Mar 3, 2011
    Posts: 298

    HamD
    Member

    I have to say, I would have considered leaving it together, pre-lubing it and finding a local engine dyno, just to run it once as Grandpa had it. Leaks and all.
     
  14. ..and of what I can see that is a Hurst crossmember to allow small block chevy mounting in a 55 - 57 Chevy...
     
  15. and on the distributor..

    1111500 - 68-70 Chevy 10-30 series pickups with a 396 or 402 and 4 bbl carb, USA and Canada. This number also appears to be rumored as a service replacement, so it is not too rare.
     
  16. MrModelT
    Joined: Nov 11, 2008
    Posts: 2,745

    MrModelT
    Member

    I would REALLY like to do this, have thought about it and may well do it. I have never heard this engine run....no body has since '81.

    Interesting....cause he never owned a tri-five. This motor was built for his '66 Shelby Mustang and it was the only car it ever installed in.
     
  17. henryj1951
    Joined: Sep 23, 2012
    Posts: 2,306

    henryj1951
    Member
    from USA

    and a perdy colored pressure plate made by borg and beck....:eek:

    :cool:
     
  18. lippy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2006
    Posts: 6,825

    lippy
    Member
    from Ks

    Looks like a 350 with 11 to 1 pistons and 327 heads. And you could rent an Isky groove-O-matic back in the day and cut your own deck grooves. Probably a 600 vac sec carb or a 585 off a mopar. Just guessing here.:D And sorry to whoever said that was a titanium scattersheild....nope.
     
  19. olskoolspeed
    Joined: Mar 2, 2009
    Posts: 476

    olskoolspeed
    Member
    from Ohio

    1955 - '57 265/283 Chevy engines did not have side motor mounts and these "cradle" mounts were used alot with them. They were also used on multiple applications - even Shelbys apparently.
     
  20. yeah i had one with a hurst number, that i found on here was indeed for a 55-57, so maybe they used the same one or similar to put in a mustang..
     
  21. value, I hate to say but most anyone will want to rering, bearing it etc...my dad and I ahve sold many motors, similar to this, that were once great race motors for $500 to $1000...depending on if the scattershield goes with it etc...just that today it is almost silly for someone to use those heads, because even a basic valve job would be $300 - $400 and if that is if they dont need more work than that.... so why not buy new hipo heads for $700 - $1000, also the intake is dated as compared to say a performer rpm or victor or other go fast parts available today
     
  22. ...that being said, it would be great for another HAMBer to get it, throw it in an early coupe or pick up or something...or even a 65 Mustang :) seeing the bellhousing has a couple sets of holes, I am thinking it is set up to take both a muncie/saginaw/borg warner gm trans as well as a ford toploader or other ford trans
     
  23. MrModelT
    Joined: Nov 11, 2008
    Posts: 2,745

    MrModelT
    Member

    My grandfather was a perfectionist...so everything he had was the best you could buy and it was ALWAYS done right.

    I doubt nothing less from this engine.

    I don't know exactly what model the carb is but I can find out.
     
  24. MrModelT, heres a small bit of advice from a engine builder. Before reassemble, countersink the head bolt holes in the block. Looks like the block might have been decked and the threads end abruptly right at the deck surface.

    The problem with that is cast iron is soft, and when you torque the head bolts the threads can begin to " pull " we call it. This can cause many small problems. A small 45 or 60 degree countersink tool in a slow drill motor will do the trick nicely. No need for lubricant as the cast iron will not need any. Then of course chase all the threads when you are through.
     

    Attached Files:

  25. pitman
    Joined: May 14, 2006
    Posts: 5,148

    pitman

    Great tip TR, from an SBC home builder, thank you!
     
  26. henryj1951
    Joined: Sep 23, 2012
    Posts: 2,306

    henryj1951
    Member
    from USA

    on the carb... you can just tell us the numbers
    after the word LIST and it will be easy to tell you what carb it is...

    :cool:
     

  27. You are very welcome sir!
     
  28. teejay99
    Joined: Sep 26, 2009
    Posts: 356

    teejay99
    Member

    Geez , I'm so excited I almost pissed my pants in anticipation ....and I'm not even a Chevy guy !
    What could it be ? Drumroll , the envelope please ...


    [​IMG]
     
  29. I have the Same Hurst Mount in my 50 Merc with
    a 327/300 in it

    just my 3.5 cents
     
  30. falcongeorge
    Joined: Aug 26, 2010
    Posts: 18,341

    falcongeorge
    Member
    from BC

    Not X heads. These are nominal 65cc chambers, 462's as one guy already pointed out. 461's and x head chambers are not laid back behind the plug like that. And Larry T already mentioned, the chambers are missing the factory relief around the valve, so they are not factory 2.02s, not that thats a problem. Lay the chamber wall back to the bore around the intake valve, but as you round the corner towards the plug, ease up and taper the relief out. If you are looking at the chambers plug hole side down, you want to start to taper your cut out around 7 o'clock. The chambers on those heads are prone to cracking in that area, so you dont want to remove too much material as you sweep around towards the plug. It will help the heads breathe a LOT better at low lifts, and help reduce the compression a bit. Also, pop the valves out and take a look at the pockets. I'd bet they are already done, but if not, clean up the cuts in the pocket above the valve seats. As far as the numbers, most likely you are correct, and it has been decked, but its a slim possibility that it is an over the counter service block, and never had a number. And always chamfer the tops of all bolt holes, per TR's post.
    Its also a 350,due to the piston number, as a bunch of guys have already said.
    If thats really a tarantula, and not a torker, that thing will run pretty strong, but like some rpm. Looking at the photo, I think its actually a Torker. If it has a replacement mech. LT-1 cam in it, which is an excellent possibility looking the rest of the engine and the time frame it was probably built, that cam has a pretty wide lsa as I recall, mech. compression is probably not far off what you want it to be. If it is, dont follow the usual HAMB crap, give it some gear (3.73s-4.10 depending on tire size) put a bigger carb on, and let the dog eat.
     
    Last edited: Oct 16, 2012

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