Painted my car with rustoleum

Can some one define real paint job for me??? If he mixed up paint and sprayed the car it's a paint job in my book... The only down fall to rust oleum is no hardners which makes a later paint job a pita!! And for everyone saying $5000 for a ppg paint job is nuts... You can buy a gallon of single stage with hardner and reducer for around $400.. Sure it's more expensive but not close to 5k like people have been mentioning... Hell there isn't any paint close to 5k even the color shifting stuff that died off because it was $2,400 a gallon... To each there own I guess but nothing wrong with rustoleum paint besides a new top coat down the road... 99% of the time if you tried to recoat it the new paint will activate the old and cause it to wrinkle... There is a cure for that thou "waterborne primer" it doesn't have to be stripped down to bare metal... Fwiw I sprayed my 51 with some cheap crap called advantage hot rod black it cost me $90 for a gallon with the hardner... It's actually pretty nice stuff and catalized urethane...

 

No shit...what UPSRodder said...who the hell cares what someone else puts on their car? If it's done right and looks good, then WTF? Ya, its not "real" automotive paint...you think the shit that manufacturers first slathered on their bodies was "specially formulated" and all that happy horseshit? Hell with it...paint it with a kids watercolor set if you like...

 

Putting a rustoleum paint job on a car is like using galvanized roof tin to make body panels. Anyone can hack out a car plain and simple. Real men do it right the first time cause who the hell is gonna wanna do it again. Oh can anyone explain why the cutoff is 65? Why not 63? Doesn't really make sense to me to include the first two years of muscle/pony car production


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This thread is three years old. Who cares.

 

That blue pick up a few post's back is killer. I wouldn't care if it was painted with road tar.

Neat truck!

 

Lots of bitching coming from the guy who once said,

You didn't like people complaining about YOUR truck. Keep it up, I got no where to be today.

 

That is a kool truck

 

Try looking around, you will find you are already there (No where)

 

Haha I could tell ya had no where to be old man. You took the time out of your day to go search my name and pull up something from months back I had said. My ex wife did the same thing smh lmafo


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How bout a graphite mixed with linseed oil paint job !

That otta get some panties in a knot

 

too many opinions on a simple subject
if you own and painted it with whatever
and like it that is all that matters

 

For the amount of work that goes into prepping a car for paint, using rustoleum is a waste. You can get decent urethane single stage for around $100 with hardener.

 

While you make a good point, the good news about a Rustoleum thread is that three years doesn't really matter because the paint technology really hasn't changed in a lot more that 3 years.
As a life time painter and now the point of contact for paint and body shop materials for one of the big THREE here in S.E. MI, It is my job to understand paint and what goes into it to make it do whatever it is intended to do.

In our end of the hobby, The cost of 1st rate chemicals from any of the BIG 5 (PPG, Sikkens, DuPont, Glasurit/Diamont, Sherwin-Williams) or some of the others (House of Kolor, Matrix, Valspar/DeBeer) is so high now to get all the stuff you will need is downright cost prohibitive for a bunch of us that build our own stuff and paint our own stuff.

The aforementioned names all make coatings intended to last flawlessly for years. I have seen coating systems from all of the big 5 that have gone through testing HELL and still look great.

With that said, I also sit at the "Shiny paint is over-rated" campfire with a lot of you. All of the folk at this campfire - almost to the person - just do NOT CARE if their Rustoleum lasts 5 years and dies or has so many chips in it that it needs to be "done over" In fact, that very "need" is the look they are after.

Here is a bit of my own experience with Rusteoleum;
For a machinist's cabinet and a Ford 9N of mine, (Cabinet was for a friend) I used Rustoleum with some hardener from Tractor Supply at a 16:1 ratio. I really like how it dried to a nicer gloss and is harder than air dry rustoleum (go figure) here is a link to the stuff I used:
http://tsc.tractorsupply.com/search?w=paint+hardener&searchButton.x=23&searchButton.y=8
If it does not work, go to
http://www.tractorsupply.com/
and do a search for Paint hardener
This stuff worked good - you get enough catalyzed paint in the limited color selection of the Rustoleum color selector, and hardener plus what ever you reduce it with (I used DT-870 PPG, but I had it around) out the door for under $75...
Afterall - its how the guys did our traditional rods back in the day a lot of the time if you think about it and the hardener helps it dry better, faster and harder.

Again - Shiny paint is over - rated

and.... yes you can sand and polish it .... a couple of months after painting is best

 

and on and on and on it goes........

 

Rustoleum Clear,
Sold in the Rustoleum 7400 system in the industrial products catalog, it is an acrylic modified alkyd ( same family as Duco and Ditzco etc ). Used with a catalyst it scuffs and buffs nicely and gives a real "correct" look when the last color coat is cut 50/50 with it. Honestly if you are going for an original type finish, a uethane SS may not be the best idea if you plan to cut it back and rub it out. Urethane SS systems get their durability from the thin layer of clear that forms on the surface upon curing. When you cut this back and rub it out you get a weaker binding structure at the surface and the durability can be worse than the alkyds and acrylic enamels.

 

Gotta love all the great info here... Think whatever you like about all of this, at the end of the day there is a market and purpose for paint systems that are inexpensive and provide a certain look - even if they don't hold up like much more expensive systems do.. Less on the front side - less to fix also - just sayin...

 

Interesting that you'd use the Alexander Bros. business card as your avatar. I don't remember them using any rustoleum for a finish ...
But I could be mistaken.

 

I understand about the tough outer skin. That's a feature of all enamels. My experience with the original "U" series single stage Imron was that after sanding and rubbing out it was still more durable than alkyd or acrylic enamel.

Regardless of the type of paint, single stage metallic benefits a lot from clear coating. If it has been sanded or buffed that is even more so. But, that's another discussion.

 

I agree...I know a guy that just wrote a 5k check for a paint job.The car isn't even in the shop yet!And when it's done it won't be worth what he's dumping into it.JMO

 

i painted a suzuki samurai i built for my kid with the rustoleum and foam roller. everyone that sees it is shocked that it was done with a roller. looks better than most sprayed apint jobs ive seen that werent thousands of dollars.

 

Damn good popcorn kids, party on!! ~sololobo~

 

I guess in my eyes, why the hell does it matter what one another does to there own vehicle. Opinions are like assholes, everyone's got one and it usually stinks so instead of getting your blood pressure up, why don't you just let it go and everyone is just fine. We are all in the business of saving these gems of American history. Who cares how the next man does it as long as it replaces one of those foreign piles of junk.

 

An entertaining read, if nothing else.

Bare metal, Gibbs, primer, Rustoleum, HR Flatz, PPG, HOK, etc, etc...

It's all got it's place, different strokes, different folks.

S'all good.

What I don't get is the rant about the cut-off date, in the middle of a paint thread. Damn, talk about left field...

 

I think alot of it depends on the exact material used, not just the "family". The company I work for uses both "wet" and "powder" paint systems to finish our products, and most of the "wet" paints are stoved enamels. Ive had issues with many of the current SS urethanes when cut and rubbed, and far fewer with acrylic enamels. Reguardless of the topcoat I still will always use an epoxy primer for corrosion protection.

I still find it partly amusing that some people on a traditional hotrod forum bitch about people using traditional materials. Why is the paint so special? DO we bitch about guys running obsolete engines? Obsolete instruments? Obsolete brakes? Obsolete lights? Using lead instead of plastic filler? Saying a guy is an idiot for using synthetic enamel to paint his "traditional" rod is the same as telling him he is an idiot for using a flathead. Both are nostalgia in their own right, and in my mind perfectly acceptable.

 

Unlike "regular" primers, the old PPG DP series primer would do a good job of protect bare metal, until deterioration from sunlight eventually(years) caused it to deteriorate. The current DPLF product is still good, but it doesn't protect bare metal like the previous generation did. Not only did the LF mean the elimination of lead, the formulation was changed as well. In some way I guess that's progress. Unfortunately the more skulls and crossbones the can has on it, the better it seems to work.

 

If it's YOUR car, do what YOU want with it !

4TTRUK

 

I haven't painted a car body with Rustoleum, but I did paint the frame with Rustoleum black, and it seems to be holding up pretty good. I also painted this gas pump in '93. The paint is getting a little faded and chalky, but it has been sitting outside for 19 years, and has never been waxed or polished.

 

One Shot pinstripe paint is Alkyd-Resin (oil base) gloss enamels

Oh my God !




.

 

I have to fess up, I am currently painting my car with an alkyd marine enamel, I use a foam roller and have followed with brushes (for a traditional marine roll and tipping method of painting) and believe it or not found a hairdryer pops the bubbles caused by the roller. The gloss is insane and levels out nicely with minimal orange peel and has an OEM look to the finish.

This suited my budget, I had zero $$s for the car let alone a real paint job and I couldn't spray at home where I am but know that I would have ended up with paint everywhere, runs and orange peel. I'm $125 in paint and a bit on sandpaper and tape and a shit load of wet sanding time.

There, I said it. It's worked for me and if you don't like it then you can kiss my ass.

 

Ace Hardware has a house brand of Rustolem that is semi-gloss black. Works exactly like I remember radiator paint back in the 60's. Same finish. I used foam brushes and it looks good.