##Don't be frieghtened .. it's only the Oct. 2012 Banger Meet##

Here is the banger link list .


For the HAMB banger newbies, here are some links to a lot of banger info:

Flat Ernie maintains the monthly link list. Every month is listed:

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=161498



Banger basics. another info link list:

http://www.fordgarage.com/

http://www.billsbangers.com

http://www.plucks329s.org/index.htm

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=251717

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...ad.php?t=42480

Post #105 of link below shows flywheel lightening dimensions
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=470853&page=6

Model B rod bearing insert numbers
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=6992484#post6992484


Engine tuning with a Vacuum gauge
http://www.centuryperformance.com/tuning-with-a-vacuum-gauge-spg-148.html

Adjusting dual Strombergs:
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=6638461#post6638461

Helpful Model A tools and tips:

http://www.maurer-markus.ch/ford_a/tipps.index.en.html

Elrod's stuck head tech:

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=218487

Model A generator to alternator conversion:

http://ejwhitneyco.com/automotive.html

Gear ratio / speed and RPM calculator:

http://www.accuautoparts.com/calculatorfin.jsp


Model A master cylinder mounting bracket ideas:

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...73#post4953173

Go here to read the 1931 edition of Harry Ricardo's book "The High Speed Internal Combustion Engine"

http://www.scribd.com/full/40610101?access_key=key-w2bcjicdancrnxypd05


Chevy Banger Stuff

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=463465

http://www.scribd.com/doc/22469332/The-High-Speed-Internal-Combustion-Engine-Ricardo-1931

Post 198 starts a great discussion of the shape of a flat head combustion chamber

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=470853&page=10

Maybe these links should be posted early in each months meeting.

If anyone knows of more, please post them.

 

Can anyone I.D. this OHV head?

 

Looks like a compressor

 

CDO,

it sure looks like the intakes from a Dodd. (missing a couple ex valves)

John

 

Here is the exhaust side:

 

CDO, has it got provision for the Dizzy?

 

No.

.

 

Isn't the Rutherford exhaust like that?

Also, isn't it missing the holes for head bolts along the flange?

Pretty cool, it has the oil accumulate from the rockers and drain down the intake pushrod holes. nice.

 

Winner!!!!!!!!

It is a Rutherford.





Valve cover:




.

 

ok, heres my shipping address, I have a bottom end to run it on.

John

 

John,
What rocker arms does the Dodd head use?

 

CDO,

the Dodd head came with Austin Healey rockers, same as your picture.
they were all worn badly and I decided to fix the problem before it became a bigger one.

I ended up making these, 1.62:1 ratio and roller tip.

John

 

Crazy, your unusual cover was made to clear the Rutherford cup racks. Is you head drilled for the cup racks ? Mike

 

love my banger !

 

CDO silly question what are the lengths of the pushrods and is there a standard length for this type of head? (guessing they are all about the same thickness)

 

Popped over to Belcher Engineering here in the UK on the way home to ask about a set of close ratio gears for my Fordor.

They manufacture two types of close ratio gears for the Model A gearbox with gears made from EN36 steel, case hardened and run on needle bearings. Straight cut, no synchro just like stock only far better ratios.

Ratios:-
20 Tooth to 27 Tooth
1st 2.2 to 1
2nd 1.3 to 1
3rd 1 to 1

18 Tooth to 29 Tooth
1st 2.59 to 1
2nd 1.55 to 1
3rd 1 to 1

I run the 2nd set behind a B banger in my Tourer and they shift lovely. They currently have six sets of blanks on the shelf so if there's enough interest they'll run a batch off.

They also have a couple of F head kits for sale if anyone is interested.

 

Thanks John,
I will probably build some roller tip rockers too. I had to build a set for the Ardun head and found it fairly easy.

Mike,
No, it doesn't appear so.

Rusty,
I don't know the push rod length, but it shouldn't be hard to find the right one. When I was putting the Ardun together, I went to a local warehouse and gave them the size and style I needed and they found one for me. Melling was the name of the manufacturer. Here is the list:
http://www.mellingengine.com/Portals/5/pdf/pdf_catalog/push-rod-identification-chart.pdf


.

 

Rusty,

There is a place in Oregon that will make you pushrods, I think it is Smith Bros?
Also, you can buy the hardened tips and use some tubing to make your own.
4130 is pretty inexpensive in small diameters.

John

 

Seamless tube from Aircraft Spruce and the correct reamers all pretty cheap

I generally make one adjustable to get things right.

 

John,
Does your head have provisions for a distributor in the stock location?

Could you post a picture of that side of the head?

Thanks.

.

 

Thanks monkeybiker, that is really cool info about the gears - I did not know anything like that was available.

For comparison:

Common early V8 16/28
2.82 - 1
1.60 - 1
1 - 1

Common LZ 18/26
2.33 - 1
1.58 - 1
1 - 1

Cut & paste from monkeybiker's post:

Ratios:-
20 Tooth to 27 Tooth
1st 2.2 to 1
2nd 1.3 to 1
3rd 1 to 1

18 Tooth to 29 Tooth
1st 2.59 to 1
2nd 1.55 to 1
3rd 1 to 1

So the first set is taller than LZ gears and the second set is right between LZ and the common 16/28 set. Any idea how much $$$?

Best wishes,
Will Kimble
www.kimblemandolins.com

 

In 1958 I went to work in a shop that manufactured push rods they/we used Bundyweld tube, 4130 tubing and solid 1/4 and 5/16 bar stock probably a 40 carbon. All of the various radiuses pushrod ends were made from B1113 cased to file hard .010 to .015 deep We made them in large quantities and shipped usually 10,000 piece orders. Fairly high volume for limited production aftermarket items. This market really opened up after Detroit went to hydraulic lifters and street racers converted them back to solids. Also, the advent of the almost universal use of overhead valves created a big market for magnesium. and al rocker arms both stock and highlift. We manufactured the various adjusting screws and rocker arm tips
Here is some hightech info regarding the initial machining of the rocker arms. A quantity of Cerromet was melted on a hot plate in a 1 pound coffee can. The material melts at around 118 degrees F. Then the boss pushed a blank rocker arm into the material until it was felt the rocker arm could be clamped and drilled. This was used for a few hundred pieces and then remelted for a fresh start. All other operations were located from the initial hole. Last was the final reaming of the hole. They could be purchased with bronze bushings or plain. These were branded Thomas magnesium.

Hows that for some trivia?

 

OK thanks guys lot of usefull information here as we are working through this now also do you guys use any kind of guide where the old valve guides were dont know if there would be any advantage in this .Thanks Rusty.

 

CDO,

yes, this head had a hole and seal for a dizzy drive, of course the valve cover held the dizzy.

RussTee,

I didn't put anything in the old guide hole or even a guide in the valve seat area. This may prove to be foolish later on, as the pushrods are about 11 1/2" long

 

Rusty,
I haven't used guides, but I replace the adjuster in the lifter with a socket head cap screw. The ball end of the push rod fits into the hex where the hex key fits. There is a cup in the bottom of the hex that the push rod nests into. A 5/16" push rod also fits nicely into the hex of the 3/8" SHCS.

.

 

Not sure exactly - they said somewhere around £200 more than a stock set. Strong money in dollars I guess. Mine came a bit cheapersecond hand ' pre-raced' and already assembled in another gearbox.

If the interest is there I'll get a better idea of price and maybe commission a batch.

 

Exactly what I am planning on . Thanks to All tips wecomed.

 

is a buick banger motor a good one? didn't know if it might have the same head as a chevy, or some worthwile parts, or the whole thing is worth saving? I think its complete.
I will have to look tomorrow and see if theres an id plate on it. I know it had one that says buick but not sure if theres any other numbers or not.

 

Everything is worth saving.

I built a car around a rare 1938 Packard Export Tach I found once

 

K204DR,

If it has the generator with the 90 degree distributor mount on the back, I'm in need of one (the dist end for my Chevy generator disintegrated).